eric1h

iTrader: (7)

did you use an Ls7 flywheel too?

STEEPSS

iTrader: (30)

SAWHEEET. i just stumbled upon this. looks like you're doin a good job. that thing will be a handful.

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

Haha, thanks. I wish i could update more often, but at least i am still making progress.

Yes, i ordered the LS7 clutch kit from SDPC. They had an awesome deal with free shipping until the end of the month.

Thanks man. It should be fun!

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

If you need an F-body pan, I'll trade you mine for the LS2 pan.

Nissan LS240

iTrader: (1)

I know in that small of a car you don't need a lot of power, but it seems you've got a good setup going, but I havent seen any engine work, the stock LS1 is a great, reliable, kick-*** motor with nothing done, but I mean a couple grand in heads and cam would put you way above any turbo honda k20 with 25psi could ever dream of. Your build's awesome looks like your taking the time to do it right. I'm building a 95 nissan 240 w/LS1 and I have just about everything to put it in the car, but after $4000 just in to motor plus the 3000 to purchase the engine/trans/ecm/harness I'm still looking for more horsepower, with straight bolt-ons and very little machine work. and a lot of nitrous I'm shhoting for 700hp at the crank. If it will ever get to wheels I dont know, I'll let you know how that goes when I'm done. Trust me after you put that motor in the car and drive it couple of months your gonna want more its in every car owner's nature, more power. Wont be able to stop it, but who needs brakes thats why they make bumpers.

Nissan LS240

iTrader: (1)

Oh and I'm pretty sure everyone's seen the thread on Civette the LS1 powered Civic, but if you haven't check out his thread and go to you tube and type Civette, yeah it took awhile to pick my jaw off the ground when I first saw it.

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, i saw the Civette thread. Freakin insane!!! haha

I'm thinking about doing a little turbo setup in the future. Then slowly build the motor and keep turning up the boost. I just still want to be able to drive the car around on pump gas, but a race gas tune would be sweet too!


Little update:
A friend came over this weekend and helped put the tranny in. Well he actually did more than me, but we got a ton of work done. Installed the frame rail braces, transmission mount, flywheel, clutch, lines and fittings, etc. We went to bleed the slave once everything was together, and there was a leak somewhere around the slave. Had to drop everything back down and check the fittings. Didn't really see where the leak could have come from, and there was so much fluid it was hard to see exactly where it was coming from. We tightened everything down as much as we felt comfortable, and did a test with the tranny out of the car. No leaks. Put everything back in the car, bled the line, and so far so good. Woke up this morning and there was a little fluid on the ground, but i'm hoping it was just from before. If i have to take it out again i'm just going to replace the slave, and use some kind of thread sealant.

05 GSXR 1XXX

iTrader: (16)

Your build is coming right along! I'm still waiting to find a 99+ body to begin my mx5 build... i bet you cant wait to get everything buttoned up and out on the road with it.

are you sticking with the rotas or going bigger?

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

Nope, i can't wait. Right now it is just cash holding me back, which will come with a little time. Good luck once you get started on your swap. Even the process is fun. Its like these motors were made for the car!


I'm going to see how the Rota's do. I figure they will do great for drifting, but not too much else. haha Still, a friend manages to cut 1.8X sixty foot times on 195/50/15's. They might end up working. Guess we will see!

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

17x8 +42, 4x100 Motegi Traklite's (Forged) for sale locally & on e-bay for $899 + shipping. Come with center caps & Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position S03 tires 215/40/17 front & 245/40/17 rear. Will sell to anyone on this board or to a friend of anyone on this board for $699 + shipping. These wheels are the strongest, lightest available in this size. Forged wheels do not go out of round. Send a PM or email to kevins65@alltel.net Set-up was $2400 new


Dark, sorry for the off topic post. Thought that the wheels might be needed for someone doing a build. Nice progress on the build. I know that aligning the transmission splined shaft into the crank shaft is a pain in the A$$. Can I borrow your friend the next time I need a clutch? I hate getting the trans shaft back in there. Great work so far!

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, i was sooo glad he came over and helped out. Since he already went through all that with his 302 Miata, he seemed to know what to do next and how to do it in no time. I'm going to bleed the clutch line again this weekend, but so far it doesn't appear to be leaking.

Got in my fuel lines and fittings today before work. -8AN feed through the rails to the regulator, and -6AN return. Nasty fuel rails are coming sometime next week possibly, along with an inline filter. Just using a single Walbro 255hp for now, with room to double up later. I know it is a bit overkill for a stock motor, but at least i know the fuel system isn't going to hold me back anytime soon.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

I don't think it's overkill. It's smart building. Why a return line though? Must be related to the aftermarket regulator, yes?

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

Exactly. I could have used the Corvette filter/regulator setup and had a really short return line, but i understand this setup more and have seen it used more widely. Overall i just felt better going this route.

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

We were closed this week at work due to the college being out for spring break. Fortunately that gave me some time to work on the car. Adam came back over to help, and ended up swapping over his whole suspension over to my car. (Koni yellow struts, Ground Control coilovers, Energy Suspension bushings, adjustable endlinks, etc.) We also swapped over his HardDog Ace rollbar and Momo steering wheel. The doorbars didn't fit with these seats, but i'm saving them for when i change them out. Still no leaks from the clutch lines, but the tranny seems a little hard to shift. Maybe i am just used to fwd, and it could also loosen up a bit when the car turns over. Got the shorty headers in, as well as the computer from Wait4MePerformance.



The interior is coming back together too. Wiring is 95% done.



I'm still waiting for the Nasty fuel rails and inline filter to come in. As soon as they do i will be able to crank the car up. Right now i'm just double clamping the lines at the tank. If anyone has ideas as to an actual fitting i could use, please let me know.



All the fuel lines are cut and ready. As soon as the inline filter goes in place, i will button up the rest of the lines under the car.



I picked up a complete throttle body today since AutoZone wanted $90 for just an IAC motor. I should be able to clean it up and swap in on tomorrow. I did have to cut a little on the hood to make clearance for the throttle body. Also the steering rack barely clears the LS2 oil pan. Not too much more, and it should be running. Then just focus on piecing together the rear end.













Hopefully that is enough of an update for now. I'll try to take some better photos next time.

tails8

iTrader: (7)

Nice progress. Coming together nicely..

Tails

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Have you adjusted the clutch master cylinder @ the pedal?

Also, may want to install an ASP 25% under drive pulley (harmonic balancer). It's a nice (cheap) mod & is much easier to install now, while the balancer is easily accessible.

Thanks for the update; lookin' good.

dark_dementshun

iTrader: (2)

I assume by adjusting the pedal you mean to make sure it is getting all of it's travel? Yes, the pedal stroke compresses it all the way down and has equal pressure throughout the whole range. I'm just used to having more pedal pressure on my fwd honda's! I read somewhere that the LS7/LS2 flywheel is stepped to give better clamping force with less pedal pressure... don't know if it has anything to do with that. Guess we will see soon enough.

Oh, and you know there will be plenty of times to swap on the crank pulley. These projects never seem to go long without having some new random part put on. haha

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

Please do not start the car until you clamp the fuel lines with fuel injection clamps. You should also flare the hose so it does not come off. If you have a flaring tool, it should have the adapters that are large enough to fit the fuel line for a clean double flare so it doesn't cut the hose any

mac_24_seven

Awesome man.. Things are progressing nicely!

Any idea when you'll be driving? You better get some good video's, I'm really interested in seeing what this lil thing runs. Should be sick.

Btw, turbo is on my Integra. Veery nice

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

No, I don't mean the pedal, I mean the adjustable clutch master cylinder. To adjust, you losen the locking nut that locks the threaded cylinder rod to the pedal, then un-screw the rod out of the pedal (towards the cylinder) until it's finger tight, then lock it in place w/ the lock nut. Could also be the opposite where you may need to losen the lock nut & then screw the threaded rod further into the pedal. Screw it in until you feel it loose in the master, then unscrew a tad until it just begins to get tight, then lock in place. This is how the master clutch cylinder is adjusted. If not adjusted or incorrectly adjusted, the pedal/pressure will not feel right. If you're using a stock Miata clutch master, the pedal & shifts will never be right.