LS powered Miata swap- Build Thread
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
Please do not start the car until you clamp the fuel lines with fuel injection clamps. You should also flare the hose so it does not come off. If you have a flaring tool, it should have the adapters that are large enough to fit the fuel line for a clean double flare so it doesn't cut the hose any
Glad you got the turbo back on your Integra. Now take it out to the track!!!
No, I don't mean the pedal, I mean the adjustable clutch master cylinder. To adjust, you losen the locking nut that locks the threaded cylinder rod to the pedal, then un-screw the rod out of the pedal (towards the cylinder) until it's finger tight, then lock it in place w/ the lock nut. Could also be the opposite where you may need to losen the lock nut & then screw the threaded rod further into the pedal. Screw it in until you feel it loose in the master, then unscrew a tad until it just begins to get tight, then lock in place. This is how the master clutch cylinder is adjusted. If not adjusted or incorrectly adjusted, the pedal/pressure will not feel right. If you're using a stock Miata clutch master, the pedal & shifts will never be right.
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Lookin good!
As far as the fittings go, you have basically 3 choices... maybe 2.
You can use a Tube Sleeve and nut combined with a 37 degree flare
You can use a weld fitting
Or you can use a compression fitting.
There is a good discussion on compression fittings here:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=923875
If the hard line your trying to adapt to is metric, your probabaly best off with the weld fitting or the compression fitting as I doubt you'll find a tube nut/sleve the correct size for the flare fitting... although if you get creative, you might make it work.
Swagelock is the only manufacturer of the compression fittings that I've dealt with. They sell metric tube to NPT fittings. There are other less expensive brands of compression fittings (such as parker) out there but I dont know if they carry the metric tube version.
Swagelok 10mm to 3/8"NPT
http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...rt=SS-10M0-7-6
8mm to 3/8"NPT
http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...art=SS-8M0-1-6
and use with this to convert from pipe to the AN fitting your hose will attach to:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
As far as the fittings go, you have basically 3 choices... maybe 2.
You can use a Tube Sleeve and nut combined with a 37 degree flare
You can use a weld fitting
Or you can use a compression fitting.
There is a good discussion on compression fittings here:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=923875
If the hard line your trying to adapt to is metric, your probabaly best off with the weld fitting or the compression fitting as I doubt you'll find a tube nut/sleve the correct size for the flare fitting... although if you get creative, you might make it work.
Swagelock is the only manufacturer of the compression fittings that I've dealt with. They sell metric tube to NPT fittings. There are other less expensive brands of compression fittings (such as parker) out there but I dont know if they carry the metric tube version.
Swagelok 10mm to 3/8"NPT
http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...rt=SS-10M0-7-6
8mm to 3/8"NPT
http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...art=SS-8M0-1-6
and use with this to convert from pipe to the AN fitting your hose will attach to:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Even if i did have a leak at the tank, it wouldn't be much of a fire hazard considering even my exhaust isn't going to be around there. Everything forward of the tank is all Earls -AN lines and fittings.
Dan W- Thank you! That is exactly what i was looking for.
Dan W- Thank you! That is exactly what i was looking for.
These fittings work for the NB Miatas. I can't imagine they changed them from the NAs:
Russell fittings:
filter supply p# 640853)
filter return to tank p# 640863)
Then just use a -6 AN compression fitting to attach to the fuel line.
Frank
Russell fittings:
filter supply p# 640853)
filter return to tank p# 640863)
Then just use a -6 AN compression fitting to attach to the fuel line.
Frank
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
chpmnsws6- Taking a step back, i didn't mean any of that to come across as harsh. I just mean that i'm sure the clamps will hold just fine for now since the car isn't going to be moving for a while. They are there really just to check and make sure the rest of my fittings and lines are not leaking, and to get the motor running. I will definitely be changing my connections at the tank before driving it on the street.
fmowry- Thank you also for the links. I need to measure and see what size lines are coming out of my tank so i can get some fittings. Those actually look like what i had in mind until i switch to a twin intank setup with weld fittings.
Here are some last minute photos i took this morning before heading off to work. I put the fenders back on, and threw the front bumper on to get it off the ground. Also i managed to smooth out the new throttle body I got, and spray it black.
fmowry- Thank you also for the links. I need to measure and see what size lines are coming out of my tank so i can get some fittings. Those actually look like what i had in mind until i switch to a twin intank setup with weld fittings.
Here are some last minute photos i took this morning before heading off to work. I put the fenders back on, and threw the front bumper on to get it off the ground. Also i managed to smooth out the new throttle body I got, and spray it black.
Last edited by dark_dementshun; Mar 24, 2009 at 01:05 PM.
Didn't take it that way at all, I just don't want to see such a nice car as yours with the possibility of ending up in the same fate as that car over a few bucks. If its just to get everything situated before being done right, I see no issues. I'll be done with my soap box so you can get back to building my dream car 
Whats the blue miata in the background?
Whats the blue miata in the background?
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Glad you didn't take it that way. I just took a step back and saw how it could have been taken harshly. The blue Miata is my friends with a 302 in it. It is currently for sale on ebay. It has been his little toy for the past 4 or so years.
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Wow nice build. I really want to do this swap. Been doing a lot of research and came across your thread. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your motor from, how much did it cost you, and what are your total expenses so far? I am fresh out of college, so money is an issue... am thinking of selling my turbo civic to fund this project. I'm new to this whole v8 Miata scene, so any input you have is appreciated. Thanks!
I was on that one until seeing that he removed the suspension & re-installed the stock coilovers. Made me wonder what else may have been borrowed from the car, prior to selling. He did explain why the aftermarket coilovers were removed, but I just didn't feel good about it. Glad to see that it sold & for decent money.
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darkmoo - let me figure it up for you. It makes me scared! haha I'm coming into all this from a Honda background too though. I just love the fact of having a rwd car that loves to launch with a stock motor capable of running in the high 11's. Imagine a little turbo setup on it... those are my plans anyways.
LS1-450 - He had the exact suspension setup that i was wanting. We swapped over his roll bar, steering wheel with extension, and suspension to my car in place of my stock parts. He wouldn't have been able to get that much more for the car with all that on there. I made him an offer on it all, and he agreed to it. The suspension is pretty stiff, the roll bar had door bars making it hard for some people to get in and out of the car, and the extension on the steering wheel would have only cramped some people in even more. Me being a small guy (5' 7" 130lbs) and having ridden in his car, i knew it was the way i wanted to set up my car anyways. For how much he has invested in the car, whoever buys it can replace those "missing" pieces and make the car handle and feel the way they want while still coming out ahead.
LS1-450 - He had the exact suspension setup that i was wanting. We swapped over his roll bar, steering wheel with extension, and suspension to my car in place of my stock parts. He wouldn't have been able to get that much more for the car with all that on there. I made him an offer on it all, and he agreed to it. The suspension is pretty stiff, the roll bar had door bars making it hard for some people to get in and out of the car, and the extension on the steering wheel would have only cramped some people in even more. Me being a small guy (5' 7" 130lbs) and having ridden in his car, i knew it was the way i wanted to set up my car anyways. For how much he has invested in the car, whoever buys it can replace those "missing" pieces and make the car handle and feel the way they want while still coming out ahead.
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
Total expenses so far-
These prices are including shipping, which adds up to a lot.
1990 Miata with Rota Slipstreams (blown motor) - $1000
2004 LS1 with 22k miles - 2600
Mildly built T56 with 4k miles since rebuild - 2000
LS7 Clutch kit - 500
Boss Frog subframe, trans mounting, etc - 1700
Used crappy racing seats - 40
Modified Shorty Headers - 500
Wiring harness - 275
LS2 Corvette oil pan - 200
Used HardDog Ace roll bar with door bars - 400
Used Momo steering wheel with extension - 250
Used suspension - 1100
Earls fuel lines and fittings - 475
Nasty fuel rails and inline filter - 300
Aeromotive A1000 regulator - 100
Grand total so far - $11,440
Things left to buy:
rear diff with Detroit True-Trac - 750
Boss Frog stage 3 axles - 2200
Driveshaft - 500
Boss Frog diff mount - 400
Brings everything up to $15,290
A couple of those I rounded over just to compensate for the little odds and ends that you need along the way. You won't believe how many trips to the hardware store i have made. Obviously you could save money on the engine and tranny. If i had to go back, i would have tried harder to find a whole pullout with low mileage. I think i would have come out ahead a decent bit. I hate adding it all up like this. You don't realize how fast it adds up. It should be worth it in the end though!
These prices are including shipping, which adds up to a lot.
1990 Miata with Rota Slipstreams (blown motor) - $1000
2004 LS1 with 22k miles - 2600
Mildly built T56 with 4k miles since rebuild - 2000
LS7 Clutch kit - 500
Boss Frog subframe, trans mounting, etc - 1700
Used crappy racing seats - 40
Modified Shorty Headers - 500
Wiring harness - 275
LS2 Corvette oil pan - 200
Used HardDog Ace roll bar with door bars - 400
Used Momo steering wheel with extension - 250
Used suspension - 1100
Earls fuel lines and fittings - 475
Nasty fuel rails and inline filter - 300
Aeromotive A1000 regulator - 100
Grand total so far - $11,440
Things left to buy:
rear diff with Detroit True-Trac - 750
Boss Frog stage 3 axles - 2200
Driveshaft - 500
Boss Frog diff mount - 400
Brings everything up to $15,290
A couple of those I rounded over just to compensate for the little odds and ends that you need along the way. You won't believe how many trips to the hardware store i have made. Obviously you could save money on the engine and tranny. If i had to go back, i would have tried harder to find a whole pullout with low mileage. I think i would have come out ahead a decent bit. I hate adding it all up like this. You don't realize how fast it adds up. It should be worth it in the end though!
Last edited by dark_dementshun; Mar 25, 2009 at 03:28 PM.
Yah, I understand & that he wouldn't have gotten more with the stuff installed. It just wasn't interesting to me to buy it without the roll bar & coil overs. Usually, the door bars are bolt in & removable. The auction ended yesterday.
What springs did he have, front & rear ratings & length?
What springs did he have, front & rear ratings & length?
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He had Ground Control coilovers with 300 in the rear and 450 in the front on Koni yellow struts. And yes, the door bars are bolt in so they could have been removed; Good point. I didn't want him to sell the car at all. It was definitely an inspiration in my project, and i think it would be awesome to cruise out to the drag strip or auto-x course with 2 V8 Miata's. haha
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From: Hattiesburg, MS
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Got all the fuel lines hooked up, and fuel rails put on. Apparently i ordered an adapter fitting backwards for the regulator, so i'm waiting on that to come in.
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It was either go with this setup, or the corvette filter/regulator. I just chose this route. I'm more familiar with it, and it does give a bit of visual bling. haha
Just figured out last night that i didn't put the throwout bearing in the transmission. Gotta drop everything back down again. I'm going to go ahead and replace the slave cylinder while i am in there, and clean up some wire routing as well as secure the fuel lines in the transmission tunnel a little better. I'm sure i could have everything apart and back together in a weekend. Just one more setback though.
Just figured out last night that i didn't put the throwout bearing in the transmission. Gotta drop everything back down again. I'm going to go ahead and replace the slave cylinder while i am in there, and clean up some wire routing as well as secure the fuel lines in the transmission tunnel a little better. I'm sure i could have everything apart and back together in a weekend. Just one more setback though.