Simple accessory drive done!
Simple accessory drive done! I just finished the accessory drive on my 68 vette.
Simple, only needed a AC and alternator drive. I added the 2 idler pulleys at the last minute to be sure I got enough belt wrap around the balancer. The belt is tensioned by the alternator swinging up and away from the engine.
Simple, only needed a AC and alternator drive. I added the 2 idler pulleys at the last minute to be sure I got enough belt wrap around the balancer. The belt is tensioned by the alternator swinging up and away from the engine.
What idler pullies did you use? I only see two connection points on the alternator. What is stopping the alternator from pivoting and falling down? Is the bottom bolt a thru bolt?
I used 2 standard idlers (70mm F body ribbed, and Gates #38018 70mm smooth). They're mounted to the water pump tensioner bolt holes.
The alternator pivots on a spacer block through a head bolt hole. The spacer is monted on the 2 outside head bolt holes. There's an adjustable upper arm link that swings the alternator up and out to be used as a tensioner. It also had some flex in the alternator, so I added another link to the front bolt hole of the alternator to stabilize it.
The alternator works like the SBC setup.
I've got about $100 in it, but $70 of that is in the 2 adjustable rod ends. I tried using the SBC stuff, but there was too much flex.
The alternator pivots on a spacer block through a head bolt hole. The spacer is monted on the 2 outside head bolt holes. There's an adjustable upper arm link that swings the alternator up and out to be used as a tensioner. It also had some flex in the alternator, so I added another link to the front bolt hole of the alternator to stabilize it.
The alternator works like the SBC setup.
I've got about $100 in it, but $70 of that is in the 2 adjustable rod ends. I tried using the SBC stuff, but there was too much flex.
Last edited by garys 68; Mar 13, 2009 at 12:18 PM.
Aluminum plates costs me $0, and the plates are very solid. You could probably lift the motor by one of those plates. The added idlers were just in case of slippage without enough crank ballancer wrap.
I used adjusters on the alternator simply so I could have adjustment without a spring tensioner.
I used adjusters on the alternator simply so I could have adjustment without a spring tensioner.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
I used 1/4" plate for both the front and reat Vintage Air AC compressor plate. I had to add a 1mm spacer plate to get the compressor to align with the crank pulley grooves.
The difficult part with old vettes is keeping the accessories under the hood, but not having belt interference problems with the vetttes A arms.
The difficult part with old vettes is keeping the accessories under the hood, but not having belt interference problems with the vetttes A arms.
Just curious, it looks like you are running and F body water pump with a truck style pulley. Are you going to run the mechanical fan or electric? What is your plan for running the upper radiator hose without interfering with the mechanical fan?
Yep, I swapped the pulleys on the water pump. I'm running a mechanical fan with an electric one too that's actuated by engine temp or the AC compressor. I cut off the top outlet so I can run the hose inside and around the fan.
