waynehartwig

I'm gathering parts to put an 08 Silverado 4x4 5.3/4l60e into my 04 Wrangler.

I've heard the truck oil pan (this would have the truck oil pan right?) hangs 3 inches lower than a car oil pan - correct?

Next question, when looking at the oil pan sticky which oil pan do I replace it with so I can keep the pan out of the rocks on the trail. Also along with the pan and pickup, what else do I need to change?

And finally, anyone have one for sale?

98blackSS

My 5.3L out of an '05 Envoy came with the front sump style pan (very bad for wheeling btw). I just swapped it out for an fbody type. I didn't want the truck style either due to clearance issues - they hang low. The fbod is nice and shallow but still holds plenty of oil. And the mid sump style shouldn't leave me oil starved on steep inclines.

Only issue is that my last pan had the dipstick boss integrated and the fbod doesn't, something to keep in mind. So I'd have to drill the boss in the block out to use it. I didn't want to freehand the drilling, so I left it be.. Mine is strictly an offroad/rock crawler so I'll probably leave it that way for a while. I change the oil too frequently in it as it is to worry about it going low. Too paranoid about all the mud, water, etc so I change it often. I do have the new dipstick and tube if I decide differently later.

Typical pan swaps can include pan, oil pickup, windage tray, dipstick, tube and gaskets.

lsxyj

iTrader: (1)

i used the corvette oil pan on just cut off one of the wings to clear the driveshaft and should be clear of the rocks

waynehartwig

So the F body pan doesn't have a place for the dipstick, like the truck pan does?

I don't have the motor/trans/etc yet, so I can't just look and see where it is or etc. Instead I have to ask stupid questions

EDIT: Does the F body pan have a oil level sender in it?

98blackSS

I'm not sure which pans/blocks have the dipstick holes. My fbody pan does not have the hole and neither does my block. Maybe one of the newer style pans has it - LH8?

The pan does have a low oil sensor in it. I was thinking of wiring it up to a sensor just for the hell of it. If I was daily driving this thing, I'd definitely have the boss drilled out in the block for the dipstick..

98blackSS

I see someone else was looking to do the same thing here

waynehartwig

See, that's what I was thinking... Like you, I don't really need to check my oil level between drains. Was thinking I would probably be ok with just using an idiot light to tell that it's low... ?

Thanks for the other link, I'll watch his thread to see what he does as well...

waynehartwig

So looking at the oil pan thread, I gather this is what I need to convert over?

Does the oil pan come with the low oil level sender? Or will I need to order that seperately? If so, what is the part number?

98blackSS

I'm not sure about buying new. I bought my pan from a forum member used for $90 I think, so it had the sensor in it already. There's a couple on the ebay right now reasonable priced too.

Of course, there's also a few idiots on there selling a few thinking they're made out of gold too.

JIMB

iTrader: (2)

I've done two Wrangler LS swaps. A 6.0 and a f body LS1. The truck pan hangs down some. See the pic. The truck pan is about or slightly higher than the skid plate. Don't have a pic of the f body pan.

It might be cool to weld a plate on the bottom of either to make it even more durable.

The LS1 will give you more clearance. Both the 6.0 and LS1 blocks came drilled for the dip stick. Just get the correct for the oil pan. The f body pan does have a low sensor on the side of the pan.

With either engine I don't need low range to plow snow any more.

waynehartwig

Thanks Jim! I ordered up the F Body pan and parts as listed in the 'oil pan' sticky last night from GM Direct.

My problem is my rig has an aftermarket crossmember and not the stock crossmember, so that will leave the oil pan exposed and below it.

Any tips?

LS1 TJ

This is Jim.

When you say cross member are you referring to transfer case mount/skid plate?

No real rocket science to put the LS engine in place. I moved the engine back until the right cylinder head was 3/4 inch from the fire wall and then the right header was close to the upper control arm and mount. Doing that gave me good clearance on the steering shaft.

The transfer case mount is on the adapter between the 4l60e and the transfer case. Once the engine is in position drill holes for the transfer case mount. Did the explorer 8.8 swap and had a cv drive shaft made.

On the 6.0 and the LS1 I used a Novak radiator and Spal fan. Never any over heating problems in two summers of driving.

The LS1 Wrangler is my summer Jeep and I'm currently taking it apart for "frame off" restoration. The LS1 is out for rebuilding.

The 6.0 Wrangler is my winter plow Jeep.

waynehartwig

Yes, crossmember/skid plate.

The upper control arm mount is no longer there on mine - I know about where it used to be, though. But I have no issues figuring out 3/4" from the firewall - that should be real easy

What did you do for exhaust? I've heard talks of using TA headers instead of the truck ones that I have? I have two ideas on routing.. One is do basically how the stock is now - run driver side in front of the pan and y the passenger in just before the converter then, muffler and out. The other is just run duals straight back and out. Second will be harder because brake/fuel/wiring is all right there. But I think it would be super cool to have actual duals out th eback The single is probably how it will end up, though...

Are you running both computers - Jeep and GM PCM's?

Thanks!

LS1 TJ

For exhaust I used Speedway block hugger headers. I did bring it around in front and y into the 3" cat and then into a single 3" flowmaster muffler and dyno max 2.5" tailpipe. Sounds good under acceleration but quiet going down the road.

I am running two computers. The stock Jeep and the LS computer. Howell LS harness and computer. It works great. I used the Jeep temp and oil pressure sensors. Autometer tach mounted on the dash because the jeep tach can't use the signal off the LS computer. I mounted the LS computer right under the brake booster on that fender mounting plate.

Mounted a Camaro brake light switch near the stock brake light switch to signal the computer to open the torque converter lockup. It must open the contact not supply a ground like a normal brake light switch.

B&M Hammer shifter mount in the stock shifter position.

waynehartwig

That B&M looks really clean... I wish I would have saw that before I bought a stock setup... Probably cost about the same and be more functional.

98blackSS

I have the B&M in mine and hate it. Going to order an art carr and try that out next. The ratcheting mode crap really gets on my nerves while rock crawling where a lot of D-R action occurs. It's not bad if I can keep it out of the ratchet mode, but I guess I overshoot the shifts sometimes.

I ditched the Jeep PCM and ran all autometer gauges, but you can go either way there. Just personal preference on which gauges you want to use.

I ran 2.25" dual exhaust to just behind the TC and joined into a flowmaster y collector, then 3" single into a flowmaster and then out the back. Ordered a bunch of mandrel U bends and straight pipe from summit and welded it up in the garage.

waynehartwig

Ahh! There's a good reason not to order the B&M then... I really liked the Art Carr, until I saw it installed. I'd like to keep my 04 looking as clean as possible on the inside. After all, it's not a buggy - yet. I'm hoping that the stock auto tranny shifter will work - I've seen one other setup with it, so I think I should be able to get it to work.

I too plan on ditching the Jeep PCM and using the GM PCM for everything. I'm hoping I can still have all of the features I have now, but with different gauges and running things direct.

I'll probably do just that with the exhaust, just haven't decided on size yet. I've used the Summit u bends before and liked 'em, so I'll probably go that way as well. I'll probably do all of the exhaust to the muffler and then have a shop continue it out later.

LS1 TJ

I started out with the stock Jeep auto shifter. Mine was a 99 so it only had detents for three speeds and the park / neutral safety switch is in the jeep trans from what I could figure out. The 4l60e needs three detents plus drive if you want manually shift from 1st to drive.

I don't think the Hammer shifter is the best. I agree that ratchet stuff is a pain. Drives my wife crazy when she drives it. Don't know what I'd go with next time. The Hammer shifter has neutral safety and back up light switch included.

The bigest reason I kept the stock dash was I liked all the stock indicator lights for like the e-brake, seat belt, air bag and 4 wheel drive. On my 79 Camaro that has a LS1 I went with Auto Meter gauges. The electronic Auto Meter speedo is nice because it can be calibrated for whatever tire size.

waynehartwig

I have an account with the local Jeep dealership, so I had them order me up a shifter (in peices of course) for an 03 Wrangler. 03-06 had 4 speed auto trans, like the 4l60e? I'm hoping anyway I want to say my cost on the new shifter parts were ~$150 - I don't recall. Sooooo many different numbers coming through on this swap, and I keep on just saying 'yup, ship it to me - I need it'.

I'm not concerned with the 'idiot' lights. I'll put some LED's in the dash for the check engine light, MIL and turn signals. Otherwise the others don't bother me if they end up missing. I've had the airbags disabled since day one practically... Seat belts are always buckled if your in the rig, so no biggie there either.

I went with Autometers because of their programability. The speedo and fuel gauge! The Jeep sender is 20-270 ohms (if I remember right) and no other gauge uses those values. So I got the programmable one that will go from 0-270. Basically you empty the tank, push a button. Fill it and push the button again - done! The only bad part, is the only prommable gauges they have are full sweep and not all gauges are offered full sweep - like the voltage gauge. I didn't want to mix half and full sweep gauges, so I went with the digital Cobalt. I also found them to be a little cheaper than others as well. Not to crazy about the digital, but...

I also got the wideband Cobalt so I can 'tune' the motor... I haven't decided if I'll put it in and leave it, or tune it and pull it out. I know for sure I'll at least keep it in there for a while at first to be sure when I'm driving it around that it's always where it should be.

I'm going nuts - I want to start this, but I can't. My motor shipped nearly 2 weeks late Right now it's in TX. Hope to have it next week, but the freight company is saying the following for some reason

98blackSS

I can understand wanting to keep it clean, too. I really like the look of a clean factory looking swap. The Hemi powered JK's done by AEV are my favorite. Mine is slowly turning buggy like, so I'm ok with the ugliness of the art carr as long as it's functional. I also want to get it up off the floor and in a spot where I don't have to reach for it - where I can just rest my arm on the center console and also have my hand on the shifter.

I also tried the Lokar direct link style shifter at first. It's a nice looking shifter, but I couldn't make it work with my combo. The linkage interfered with the TC linkage. Now that I'm using Novak's shifter (I love this btw), I may actually have room for the Lokar, but not sure. If you're not using a 231 TC, that doesn't matter much though.. I love it because it does away with the mushiness of the z link OEM linkage and doesn't bind with body flex.

Here's what I did for my gauges. I went with autometer full sweep gauges where possible and they've worked out well. I also added a green LED for 4wd and amber for CEL. I thought about turn signals, but got lazy, and hardly drive this on the street anymore - although plates are still on just in case I need it.

I agree, the autometer's are great for their programming features. I'm using a 15gal RCI fuel cell mounted up against the tail gate in the tub w/90ohm sender - basically for crawling reasons, and also want to move up to a suspension stretch kit in the near future.

I don't recall which motor mounts you said you're going with, but if they're AA, you'll need to modify the steering pillow block for the steering. AA made them all wrong. I've sent them pics and descriptions of the problem. It's a simple fix though - either re-drill the holes in the mounts, or re-do the pillow block mount completely. If you're not using AA mounts, then it's a non-issue..

BTW, you don't really need to use the neutral safety switch in the aftermarket shifters if you plan to wire up the GM ECM/TCM (or PCM, whichever you're using) following the GM wiring implementation. There is a switch already in the trans for that and the ECM will prevent starting if it's not seeing a N or P signal. Of course, if you're using an aftermarket harness, that may not be the case. It was already wired, so I went ahead and used it in my config.