Confused about AC with conversion
Confused about AC with conversion Hi,
I am stuffing an LQ4 into a 67 chevelle that did not have factory AC. I have been trying to mock up the engine placement with the compressor that came with the LQ4. Am I wasting my time trying to get this compressor to fit? I am reading that after market AC kits don't work properly with modern compressors. Would it be best to ditch the LQ4 compressor and either worry about AC later? Or should I actually buy the aftermarket kit and mock that up? Or, can I in fact use the stock LQ4 compressor with aftermarket parts?
Thanks for the help.
Rob
I am stuffing an LQ4 into a 67 chevelle that did not have factory AC. I have been trying to mock up the engine placement with the compressor that came with the LQ4. Am I wasting my time trying to get this compressor to fit? I am reading that after market AC kits don't work properly with modern compressors. Would it be best to ditch the LQ4 compressor and either worry about AC later? Or should I actually buy the aftermarket kit and mock that up? Or, can I in fact use the stock LQ4 compressor with aftermarket parts?
Thanks for the help.
Rob
I checked into a lot of posts here and came to the conclusion that it was not worth my time of money to mess with a combination of parts.
My 68 vette did not have AC so I was going to have to buy all the stuff anyway. Trying to reuse the LQ compressor would only save a few bucks.
I bought a Vintage Air setup and am very happy with their kit.
My 68 vette did not have AC so I was going to have to buy all the stuff anyway. Trying to reuse the LQ compressor would only save a few bucks.
I bought a Vintage Air setup and am very happy with their kit.
Get a Sanden compressor and kwikperf brackets. You'll probably want to do the evaporator install while your engine is still out, but the rest of the AC install will probably be done after the LQ is in.
The A/C stuff is not as hard as many people think. We put an LS1 (Fbody front end accessory drive) into a 1986 BMW 325. We used all BMW components: condenser, evaporator, drier and expansion valve. We made-up our own hoses using hose, hard tubing and beadlock crimp fittings from www.docsblocks.com. The GM PCM controls the A/C compressor, and monitors a standard GM 3-wire pressure switch on the high-side line. Our system runs R134a.
It was easy to solder the hardlines (aluminum) using a propane torch and pre-fluxed solder rings from docs. Go to their website and see the free videos of how to do it.
Your '67 may have mounting points for a '67 condenser and evaporator, and a formed boss on the firewall for the A/C hoses to go thru.
It was easy to solder the hardlines (aluminum) using a propane torch and pre-fluxed solder rings from docs. Go to their website and see the free videos of how to do it.
Your '67 may have mounting points for a '67 condenser and evaporator, and a formed boss on the firewall for the A/C hoses to go thru.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Ventura, Ca
I have a vintage air system and will be using the stock compressor. While there are a number of places that tell you you cannot use a variable displacement compressor you can so you need to decide on what is best for you. I have spoke to my old A/C guy that did my vintage air and helped a number of people in Arizona and he said it will work no problem. This is my second non-Sanden compressor for my vintage air. The first was when I went to a factory serpentine system on my Gen I motor. It actually worked better than the Sanden. Here are a few links discussing this:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...iable-poa.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ble-fixed.html
If you decide on going with the factory compressor then you can pick up an adapter here at nostaligic air for $25 that will allow you to hook up directly to your vintage air.
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/...dapters-79.php
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...iable-poa.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ble-fixed.html
If you decide on going with the factory compressor then you can pick up an adapter here at nostaligic air for $25 that will allow you to hook up directly to your vintage air.
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ac/...dapters-79.php
I got a question. My 68 vette was a no AC car like robbied31. If I had to buy everything to convert it from Vintage Air, why would I want to use the original compressor? The $200 savings by not getting the VA compressor would be partially offset by the cost of fittings, hoses, adapters, etc.. needed to use the LQ compressor. And VA substituted a serpentine pulley for the original V belt pulley at no cost.
In addition, there were interference problems with LQ compressor and the frame and A arm that would require more mods. VA also offers a few different mounting locations for their compressor. So what's the advantage to keeping the used LQ compressor vs a new one that's made for the VA kit?
In addition, there were interference problems with LQ compressor and the frame and A arm that would require more mods. VA also offers a few different mounting locations for their compressor. So what's the advantage to keeping the used LQ compressor vs a new one that's made for the VA kit?
That's a great question Gary!
After looking over rodder's pics and suggestion for the kwikperf.com bracket, it looks like I won't worry about AC yet! I guess when the time comes, I just need to make sure I get the Sanden compressor that works with the kiwkperf.com bracket from VA along with the serpentine belt you [Gary] mention.
Gary, any link or pics to your vette build?
Thanks for all the info guys.
Rob
After looking over rodder's pics and suggestion for the kwikperf.com bracket, it looks like I won't worry about AC yet! I guess when the time comes, I just need to make sure I get the Sanden compressor that works with the kiwkperf.com bracket from VA along with the serpentine belt you [Gary] mention.
Gary, any link or pics to your vette build?
Thanks for all the info guys.
Rob
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Ventura, Ca
If you get a complete system then it does not make sense of course. If I personally had to do it over again I would try to make the original blower/box work. And build a system up front with a GM condensor, filter/dryer, and compressor. With factory you get fresh air along with the recirc. You only get recirc with the aftermarket systems. If it is smoking hot outside no problem but when it is marginal it is nice to have fresh air. I also used aftermarket brackets and while they worked fine when I went to the factory serpentine there was no comparison. With the factory serpentine I had to use a GM compressor. I thought it worked better overall than the Sanden.
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Verdad Gallardo No link, just a few scattered threads here.
I made my own bracket for AC and alternator to deal with clearance problems and the fact I wanted to use a mechanical fan.
Link to that thread below.
Oh yeah and good point Ghost on the recirculation. But mines a convertable, so if it's masrginal, I'll have the top down.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rive-done.html
I made my own bracket for AC and alternator to deal with clearance problems and the fact I wanted to use a mechanical fan.
Link to that thread below.
Oh yeah and good point Ghost on the recirculation. But mines a convertable, so if it's masrginal, I'll have the top down.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rive-done.html
That's a great question Gary!
After looking over rodder's pics and suggestion for the kwikperf.com bracket, it looks like I won't worry about AC yet! I guess when the time comes, I just need to make sure I get the Sanden compressor that works with the kiwkperf.com bracket from VA along with the serpentine belt you [Gary] mention.
Gary, any link or pics to your vette build?
Thanks for all the info guys.
Rob
After looking over rodder's pics and suggestion for the kwikperf.com bracket, it looks like I won't worry about AC yet! I guess when the time comes, I just need to make sure I get the Sanden compressor that works with the kiwkperf.com bracket from VA along with the serpentine belt you [Gary] mention.
Gary, any link or pics to your vette build?
Thanks for all the info guys.
Rob
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: N. MS
Gary,
Would you please share how you swaped your water pump pulleys?
I know sounds like a dumb question, I know it involves pressing off
and pressing on, but I talked to a local pump & alt rebuilder and they
were not intrested in helping.
I now have a 97 pump with bolt on pulley, spacer between pulley and hub,
but I wonder how long the 97 pump will be avaliable.
Thanks,
Sorry about thread hyjack Rob.
Malcolm
Would you please share how you swaped your water pump pulleys?
I know sounds like a dumb question, I know it involves pressing off
and pressing on, but I talked to a local pump & alt rebuilder and they
were not intrested in helping.
I now have a 97 pump with bolt on pulley, spacer between pulley and hub,
but I wonder how long the 97 pump will be avaliable.
Thanks,
Sorry about thread hyjack Rob.
Malcolm
No link, just a few scattered threads here.
I made my own bracket for AC and alternator to deal with clearance problems and the fact I wanted to use a mechanical fan.
Link to that thread below.
Oh yeah and good point Ghost on the recirculation. But mines a convertable, so if it's masrginal, I'll have the top down.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rive-done.html
I made my own bracket for AC and alternator to deal with clearance problems and the fact I wanted to use a mechanical fan.
Link to that thread below.
Oh yeah and good point Ghost on the recirculation. But mines a convertable, so if it's masrginal, I'll have the top down.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rive-done.html
thanks for the pics/thread.
Originally Posted by 67Mal
Sorry about thread hyjack Rob.
Malcolm
Malcolm
Rob
The truck pulley came off with a 3 jaw puller.
The F body pulley is so tight between the pulley and pump body that I first had to cut slots to get the a 3 jaw pulley under the edge. Then even with that, I had to cut the pulley near the center shaft with a cutoff wheel to loosen it. Kind of a pain, and I'm guessing there's a jig on a press that the water pump reman. guys use.
To press it on, you will need a hydraulic press. Remove the back water pump cover and support the pulley on only the center shaft. I used a small socket under it. Then just press on the pulley to the appropriate distance on the shaft.
If you support the pulley by the impeller, you'll press the shaft farther through the impeller. Fortunately I discovered this while practicing on the old pump.
BTW, I bought mine off ebay from a guy that rebuilds them (H2OPUMPMAN1@AOL). I also emailed him to sdee if he could supply F body water pumps without pulleys. No reply, but you could try him too. I'll take 2 if we can get a group purchase.
The F body pulley is so tight between the pulley and pump body that I first had to cut slots to get the a 3 jaw pulley under the edge. Then even with that, I had to cut the pulley near the center shaft with a cutoff wheel to loosen it. Kind of a pain, and I'm guessing there's a jig on a press that the water pump reman. guys use.
To press it on, you will need a hydraulic press. Remove the back water pump cover and support the pulley on only the center shaft. I used a small socket under it. Then just press on the pulley to the appropriate distance on the shaft.
If you support the pulley by the impeller, you'll press the shaft farther through the impeller. Fortunately I discovered this while practicing on the old pump.
BTW, I bought mine off ebay from a guy that rebuilds them (H2OPUMPMAN1@AOL). I also emailed him to sdee if he could supply F body water pumps without pulleys. No reply, but you could try him too. I'll take 2 if we can get a group purchase.
Gary,
Would you please share how you swaped your water pump pulleys?
I know sounds like a dumb question, I know it involves pressing off
and pressing on, but I talked to a local pump & alt rebuilder and they
were not intrested in helping.
I now have a 97 pump with bolt on pulley, spacer between pulley and hub,
but I wonder how long the 97 pump will be avaliable.
Thanks,
Sorry about thread hyjack Rob.
Malcolm
Would you please share how you swaped your water pump pulleys?
I know sounds like a dumb question, I know it involves pressing off
and pressing on, but I talked to a local pump & alt rebuilder and they
were not intrested in helping.
I now have a 97 pump with bolt on pulley, spacer between pulley and hub,
but I wonder how long the 97 pump will be avaliable.
Thanks,
Sorry about thread hyjack Rob.
Malcolm
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 452
Likes: 2
From: Sparta, Mo. in southwest Missouri
The truck pulley came off with a 3 jaw puller.
The F body pulley is so tight between the pulley and pump body that I first had to cut slots to get the a 3 jaw pulley under the edge. Then even with that, I had to cut the pulley near the center shaft with a cutoff wheel to loosen it. Kind of a pain, and I'm guessing there's a jig on a press that the water pump reman. guys use.
To press it on, you will need a hydraulic press. Remove the back water pump cover and support the pulley on only the center shaft. I used a small socket under it. Then just press on the pulley to the appropriate distance on the shaft.
If you support the pulley by the impeller, you'll press the shaft farther through the impeller. Fortunately I discovered this while practicing on the old pump.
BTW, I bought mine off ebay from a guy that rebuilds them (H2OPUMPMAN1@AOL). I also emailed him to sdee if he could supply F body water pumps without pulleys. No reply, but you could try him too. I'll take 2 if we can get a group purchase.
The F body pulley is so tight between the pulley and pump body that I first had to cut slots to get the a 3 jaw pulley under the edge. Then even with that, I had to cut the pulley near the center shaft with a cutoff wheel to loosen it. Kind of a pain, and I'm guessing there's a jig on a press that the water pump reman. guys use.
To press it on, you will need a hydraulic press. Remove the back water pump cover and support the pulley on only the center shaft. I used a small socket under it. Then just press on the pulley to the appropriate distance on the shaft.
If you support the pulley by the impeller, you'll press the shaft farther through the impeller. Fortunately I discovered this while practicing on the old pump.
BTW, I bought mine off ebay from a guy that rebuilds them (H2OPUMPMAN1@AOL). I also emailed him to sdee if he could supply F body water pumps without pulleys. No reply, but you could try him too. I'll take 2 if we can get a group purchase.
It's J&T Automotive Distributing, Inc.- (417) 468-2439, and no,...it's not my brother-in-law, LOL I'm just a walk in. They are on A hwy. just south of town.
Thanks for the info. They're right down the road from me.
*Garys68 & 67Mal *.....You might try these guys Gary. They are in Marshfield, Mo. They have been willing to try all kinds of oddball stuff for me, from changing impellars to shortening water pumps. Also, when they rebuild Alternators or pumps, they DON'T use Chinese parts. If you know any truck drivers that run I -44, you could probably have them pick up or drop off.
It's J&T Automotive Distributing, Inc.- (417) 468-2439, and no,...it's not my brother-in-law, LOL I'm just a walk in. They are on A hwy. just south of town.
It's J&T Automotive Distributing, Inc.- (417) 468-2439, and no,...it's not my brother-in-law, LOL I'm just a walk in. They are on A hwy. just south of town.
ac, bmw, bracket, compressor, conversion, cutoff, gm, ls1, sanden, serpentine, system, vintageaircombrackets, wire
