I was told awhile back to "use the search button" well not a whole lot of luck trying to find all the 5.3 Conversions into G bodies that i can,I am compiling alist oof what i need and what i have to do...thansk for any help.. have the 5.3 motor already,going with a CSU carb ..gonna turbo it next yr.. any link would be great.. thanks Much. Dennis K

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-pics.html

 

Here ya go - this might help a bit...

 

Google searches this site better than the search function! LOL

Theres some pics of mine on here too somewhere. Im gonna start a dedicated build thread soon now that the ls2 is almost finished. Maybe I'll drive it for more than a week before I rip it apart this time.

 

I am interested as well. I have a '78 Monte Carlo clip installed on the front of my '56 Chevy Truck. I have a 2000 5.3 Truck engine that I plan on using with a carb setup to keep things simple. From what I have been able to gleen out of the threads on the G-body stuff, it sounds like the oil pan needs to be the F-body pan with corresponding windage tray and pickup tube. The truck pan hangs down below the crossmember way too much. This will keep the oil pan above the crossmember. I am looking for an oil pan setup still. I think that the F-body oil pan will work unmodified if the engine is installed into the car without the transmission attached. I am planning on using a 700-R4. You will need the flat 6.0 flexplate that has the adapter/spacer already welded in. Otherwise use GM #12563532 spacer with the stock flat (not dished) 5.3 flexplate. You will also need 6 longer bolts GM #11569956. On both, you will need to redrill the converter bolt locations to match your 700-R4 converter. If you want to install the engine/trans combo together at once, either the crossmember needs notched or the oil pan needs notched back about 2". I am planning on notching out my crossmember some for the simple fact that I can weld and fabricate metal easier than aluminum. I want to be able to pull the engine and transmission out together . On the exhaust, F-body exhaust manifolds (if you are using stock manifolds). The cutlass on this thread I guess is using truck manifolds? For engine mounts, 1" setback motor mounts (unless you fabricate your own) to get the front to back issues with power steering pulley clearance to steering box and the heater/AC plenum box and coil pack issues on the passenger side firewall. I am still gathering parts to make this happen. I may look further into the S-10 pulley for the steering box clearance. My firewall is obviously different, in my '56 truck application, but everything else will apply for the G-body.

By the way, the oil pan (12558762) $177.00, windage tray (12558253) $15.87
and oil pickup (12558251) $30.04 can be obtained through GMpartsdirect.com
for a total of $222.91 new. One thing I have noticed is that the used prices for the oil pan conversions using these parts is alot of times almost the same price! I am almost ready to just buy new. I will still try and look around to see what I can find. Good luck!

 

Yes 1" setback for the F-body pan and F-body brackets.

 

truck manifolds with the one on the driver's side cutted an welded, i made my own motor mounts that allow me to place the engine exactly where i want it and after, i can modify my the transmission crossmember and have my driveshaft shortened.

 

http://mykidz.net/montess

 

I'm currently installing a truck 5.3 and 4L60E into my 87 Monte. I got adapter plates for the motor mounts from ebay for about $45. I THINK they're supposed to put the motor in the "stock" location. The initial test-fit was perfect, but when I added the truck accessories and F-body oil pan, there were plenty of clearance issues.

Then, I took the stock frame mounts, and moved them back to the next set of holes (I think it's about 1"). Now the engine, oil pan, and truck power steering pulley fit fine, as well as my F-body exhaust manifolds. I'll have to clearance the AC box (valve cover and coil packs), and make sure the transmission and dipstick tube fit. If the trans is okay, I'll move forward. It looks like the hood will clear the intake and alternator as well.

To summarize:

1. F-body oil pan
2. "stock" engine mount adapters
3. move stock frame mounts back 1" or so (next set of holes in crossmember)
4. F-body exhaust manifolds
5. clearance heat/AC box (fiberglass work) for valve cover and coil packs

 

1" setback is fine for an auto or manual trans in a G-body. I have done both. You should be good to go as long as you can get around the heaterbox. I dont have one.

 

I saw some of your GN pics. Very nice! Thanks for the tips. I attempted to place the engine in last night, and it didn't work. The frame mounts seem to be too low on the crossmember; the motor mount holes don't line up. Is there another G-body frame mount that would work better? Maybe a Regal or Cutlass, or perhaps a 4.3 liter S-10 set? I'm curious as to whether or not this is because of cheap adapter plates.

Also, it appears that my cylinder head is hitting the passenger side firewall. If the engine can come forward about 1/2", it might be perfect. I'm gonna try an S-10 power steering pulley too. Maybe that'll work if I bring the engine forward again.

 

I used moroso 62630 frame pads and transdapt 1" setback mounts. Fit great and cheap

 

I did another mock-up last night, and left the frame mounts' bolts out, so I could slide the engine/trasmission assembly around to where I wanted it. It looks like exactly 1" is perfect. I may try the setback adapters you suggested. I was wondering though, has anyone tried these in a Gbody? They're for and S10 LS1 conversion. I didn't know if maybe the engine cradle geometry is different for an S10. I know a lot of parts will swap over between Gbodies and S10's.

 

The s-10 frame is narrower so they wont work. I used those on my brothers s-10 and thought they would be great for me since the have so much adjustability but no dice...

 

I'm new to the site, but this thread is the exact reason I've came here. I've got an 87 Monte Carlo SS that I plan on retro'ing in a 5.3 or 6.0 engine in from a truck. I've been browsing craigslist and I've found a prospect that I'm waiting for the seller to email me back on. It's a 6.0 LQ4 engine that has had a LS6 vette cam, springs, and lifters installed. It's missing the intake and exhaust manifolds, but I thought I might change them anyhow. It's also missing a harness and ECM, but I've noticed a 5.3 harness/ecm/intake on craigslist as well. I planned on having the ECM reflashed anyhow. Would this work? Also I assume there's someone out there that makes shorty F-body 3rd gen headers for these engine swaps? I ask because that's the headers I have on my car right now. I'd love to have a T56 in it, but I think I'll just stick with the auto instead. Right now the car has a stroked small block, but it needs 100+ to run worth a flip. I've let the thing sit for about 5 years now in my mother's garage. I'll be pulling that engine out and selling it off to recoup some costs. (anyone want a roller'ed 400sb?) I've got a 200-4R in the car as well that I've installed a B&M stall converter and reworked a little. Should I keep it or upgrade to the later model trans? I've also installed a 12 bolt rear axle, but I really need to re-gear it and put a limited slip in instead of a spool. I've got a set of C5 wheels I'll be installing as well. Also looking at 12" rotors on the front with some control arms. Basically I want to get this thing back into shape and have a daily driver I can go anywhere in. Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to these engines.

 

As long as the 200 4r is beefed up it should be fine. Art carr can build the crap out of them. They sell a kit on their website.

 

a 200 can be built plenty stout.

 

Not all to worried about the stoutness of it. While I didn't install billet shafts, it does have a great deal of GN parts, along with a nice converter. It never gave me any issues.

Anyone have any idea about the 5.3 stuff working on a 6.0 engine? I know in the past the externals of a SBC were the same. I'd imagine it'd be the same here. Any fueling demands would be handled during the reflash.

 

The 4.8/5.3/6.0L stuff is all interchangeable just like the old SBC`s were. You can even interchange parts from the 5.7`s and all the other GEN III engines, but when you start with stuff like accys truck to car intake, etc you might have to do some custom tricks to make it fit.

 

What's the best intake for me to nab? I'm looking hard at that 6.0 with the LS6 cam. It doesn't have an intake.