1937 Ford LS2 Install
Now, at the risk of hurting your feelings, I have to question a couple of your choices. First, that 8" Ford rear axle. I'm not even sure there is a posi-traction type differential available for that rear axle, and if there is, they have a very limited gear selection. Why not use a 9" axle, or even a later 8.8 out of a Mustang or something. Just my .02 cents worth. Also,..unless you are the kind of guy that just likes to cruise or you just like to put on a smoke show and show everyone how much power you've got on tap by spinning your tires, you"re going to wish you had used a different rear suspension system. If you put any kind of tire on there that will hold the kind of power you will be making, I can almost guarantee you will not like those rear springs.
Please don't take my comments the wrong way. I really like the car and I can't wait to see it at the shows. I just hate to see a guy have to redo a really nice finished car. Ron
Last edited by kwhizz; Aug 2, 2009 at 08:18 PM.
The only problem with this basically Rust Free car....is that sometime in it's past, the original fender welting was removed (A Cushion between the Painted surfaces for the bolted on parts) and someone used a Fabric type material that retained Moisture and caused some rust in these areas......So...I need to repair these areas as I re-install the Sheetmetal for final fitting and Radiator placement....Simple stuff.....just time consuming


Ken
I'm doing a 1958 Volvo which is about like a mid 40's Ford. It had an X frame too. I took it out entirely and made a tranny crossmember that can resist frame torsion (somewhat). I back halved and channeled the car. I used a Heidt's M2 front end but ended up narrowing the same crossmember you have there almost 6". I had to notch for the PS rack fittings and will be soon notching for the AC compressor.
I love the fab work.
I've got a 2 door sedan (1942) sitting around for someday. It will be a mild one too kinda like what you're talking about but not so finished. Probably my 12 year olds first car.
I'm not that far along to know "IF" it will be tied in to the Computer......All the Harness's are at Speartech waiting their turn in line for modifications.......I'll let you know how it all plays out......
Ken


Ken
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

By the way, I have a Maverick 8" in my Studebaker. 3.80 gears with Trac Loc. Perfect width and seems to do the trick for what I need. Has even held up to some abuse at the track. Street tires are my safety valve.

Pat
Nope!!.............Haven't taken the body off the frame yet....I want to get all the everything fitted, then I'll pull it off.........I also want to get rid of the stock Ford rear crossmember , I'll fab a tubular one for the shocks at that time......also to get more room for the exhaust to go over the rear axle housing.........
Ken

By the way, I have a Maverick 8" in my Studebaker. 3.80 gears with Trac Loc. Perfect width and seems to do the trick for what I need. Has even held up to some abuse at the track. Street tires are my safety valve.

Pat
Not to change the subject....but.....Love your Biscayne......Mine had a 3.90 with a close ratio.....Car was Insane, but....I couldn't drive any distance.....changed the rear to a 3.08 and put in a Super T-10 with a 2.88 first gear.....I can now drive anywhere, but the trans is now the weak link (2.88 first gear is only rated to 325 lbs of Torque)......By the way I'll be in Reno for HAN...staying at the Atlantis.....hope to get over to the A&W and meet you guy's......

Ken
Sent you a private message with cell # so we can hook up at HAN
Pat
Here's a link to a To of pic's from HAN
http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/show...e/0#Post413893
Ken
Here is the straight Passenger side

And the "Warped" side........

Brazing........... (to be cut out)....LOL

Gotta start somewhere.........

Replacing the damaged area.........



I'll finish trimming and add the bottom flange tomorrow
Ken

Ken

Ken
I considered going with a factory type cluster, too. What's the issue with the fuel gauge?












