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Just to add some more info to this swap... I just did this swap on a 98 v6 body with a 99 Z donor. For whatever reason I did not have to run that ING 2 pink wire you referenced. The 98 v6 body had that wire already in place running to a fuse labeled engine control management. with the same fuse load etc. The LS1 fired up and runs great so we left that alone. I had a whole host of other wiring changes due to the 98 / 99 differences.
But this is a heads up for anyone using a 98 v6 body, the ING 2 wire is likely present and hot.
I also did NOT have any issue with VATS, as I was initially concerned that I would.
Anybody with v6 swap questions feel free to pm me
hey if u get this I have a few questions I'd like to ask thanks nathan
I have a 01 firebird auto 3.8 tcs car, I'm doing an ls1 t56 swap. I need to know from an experienced person that's done this swap to answer my question, do I have to change the dash harness because my car is tcs? Thanks nathan. Nathanlw82@gmail.com
I have a 01 firebird auto 3.8 tcs car, I'm doing an ls1 t56 swap. I need to know from an experienced person that's done this swap to answer my question, do I have to change the dash harness because my car is tcs? Thanks nathan. Nathanlw82@gmail.com
Im not sure if the transmission has much involvement in the TCS. I don't think it does but I could be wrong. From my understanding, TCS is handled by the PCM, Engine throttle, and Rear Axle.
The other thing though I kinda have to advise is, unless you're turbo'ing...or you install some seriously tall rear axle gears (well above 4.10's) ...The T-56 is going to be virtually useless behind the 3.8 V6... 5th and 6th gear will have absolutely no pull where as you will be maxed out at around 4th gear and probably make horrible fuel mileage. Even stock LS1's have no pull in 6th Gear and they make 150 more horses than the 3.8 V6... It's...not something I would recommend trying but if you do, good luck!
I think he's putting an LS1 in also; an LS1/T56 swap.....
Oh, yes my mistake, thats different.
I still don't believe TCS has anything to do with the transmission however. Its mainly PCM, Throttle Control and Wheel Slip sensors on the rear axle.
If your V6 has TCS, you should be fine (I "think" all LS1's came equipped with it, but I could be wrong, if I am you would need a LS1 PCM that came equipped with TCS.)
I did a A4 V6 to A4 V8 on a V6 that had TCS, didn't have any problems with it.
Im not sure if the transmission has much involvement in the TCS. I don't think it does but I could be wrong. From my understanding, TCS is handled by the PCM, Engine throttle, and Rear Axle.
Originally Posted by Need4Camaro
The other thing though I kinda have to advise is, unless you're turbo'ing...or you install some seriously tall rear axle gears (well above 4.10's) ...The T-56 is going to be virtually useless behind the 3.8 V6... 5th and 6th gear will have absolutely no pull where as you will be maxed out at around 4th gear and probably make horrible fuel mileage. Even stock LS1's have no pull in 6th Gear and they make 150 more horses than the 3.8 V6... It's...not something I would recommend trying but if you do, good luck!
The tcs on the 99 and up f body is run through the cableless throttle body, and when you put a ls1 in the car the plug that operates the throttle and tcs is not used, so I'm wondering if the new PCM will work without changing that part of the harness.
ok so I got it running but I need help with the inj 2 wiring. I see the pics but I'm not sure what to do if anyone has a detailed description for an 01 firebird please link thanks
Last edited by Nathanlw; 08-19-2018 at 10:18 AM.
Reason: Wiring
Since you have a feed and return fuel system that needs to be converted to a feed only system, you can pick up a fuel filter/regulator for a 99 Corvette and figure out how to connect it. That will convert the 2 lines to 1.
As for the wiring, look at your current fuse block set up. One of the fuse blocks will have two spaces marked INJ1 and INJ2. INJ2 should be empty on one side of the pins (so if you were to stick a fuse in there, it would only connect to one side of the fuse). So what you have to do is get a specific pin that is supposed to go into that fuse block. Put the pin in the block on the other side of the INJ2 spot and run wire from the block over to the engine harness on the passenger side shock tower and connect it to the ingnition feed that powers up the second bank of coils and injectors of the v8 engine harness.
NJ 2 fuse. Is there a clearer picture that anyone has of this being done? My swap starts buts misses. I'm sure this is the cause thanks nathan
I was wondering what kind of wiring changes you had to do on your swap I’m almost done with my swap and want to double check myself .
Originally Posted by six2eight
Just to add some more info to this swap... I just did this swap on a 98 v6 body with a 99 Z donor. For whatever reason I did not have to run that ING 2 pink wire you referenced. The 98 v6 body had that wire already in place running to a fuse labeled engine control management. with the same fuse load etc. The LS1 fired up and runs great so we left that alone. I had a whole host of other wiring changes due to the 98 / 99 differences.
But this is a heads up for anyone using a 98 v6 body, the ING 2 wire is likely present and hot.
I also did NOT have any issue with VATS, as I was initially concerned that I would.
Updated post with some minor info changes and re-upped as many pics as possible.
my swap has been done for iver a year now. I just wanted to clear uo some things ive read that came to be untrue, well at least with my swap. As to one if the replys about the rear end and not having any pull in 5th and 6th are untrue. I have 3.24 gears and i did not change the rear end and it has plenty of pull in 5th and 6th gear. heres some of the things ive read on here that i did not have to change as a lot of people swore up and down i would have to. I did not have any trouble or problems with the v6 radiator, fans, gauge cluster, rear end, dash harness, any of the front suspension, none of the fuse boxes or relays, im sure im forgetting something. Things i did change, cross member, trans cross member, engine harness and computer, gas tank with ls1 pump and fuel lines, removed the electronic gas pedal and swapped it out with one that has a clutch pedal. Had to move a few wires in the 3 plugs that go to the computer on the pass side kick panel. Cut a hole for the clutch master cylinder and a hole for the 6 spd shifter and added a boot there. Added the inj 2 fuse wire and a power steering cooler. Most of this was as easy as simply changing an engine and swapping a few parts. Everything bolted right up as it should. Nothing was rigged or had to be made. Parts in all minus new gaskets and stuff that didn't have to be replaced or upgraded i spent about $4500 . Oh i almost forgot to mention the driveshaft. The v6 auto one worked just fine . I only changed it because they guy i bought the stuff from tossed it in. Yes i did look for a trans am wa6 or equal but i had no nluck in finding one around here for that price soni figured why not i already have the car .
my swap has been done for iver a year now. I just wanted to clear uo some things ive read that came to be untrue, well at least with my swap. As to one if the replys about the rear end and not having any pull in 5th and 6th are untrue. I have 3.24 gears and i did not change the rear end and it has plenty of pull in 5th and 6th gear. heres some of the things ive read on here that i did not have to change as a lot of people swore up and down i would have to. I did not have any trouble or problems with the v6 radiator, fans, gauge cluster, rear end, dash harness, any of the front suspension, none of the fuse boxes or relays, im sure im forgetting something. Things i did change, cross member, trans cross member, engine harness and computer, gas tank with ls1 pump and fuel lines, removed the electronic gas pedal and swapped it out with one that has a clutch pedal. Had to move a few wires in the 3 plugs that go to the computer on the pass side kick panel. Cut a hole for the clutch master cylinder and a hole for the 6 spd shifter and added a boot there. Added the inj 2 fuse wire and a power steering cooler. Most of this was as easy as simply changing an engine and swapping a few parts. Everything bolted right up as it should. Nothing was rigged or had to be made. Parts in all minus new gaskets and stuff that didn't have to be replaced or upgraded i spent about $4500 . Oh i almost forgot to mention the driveshaft. The v6 auto one worked just fine . I only changed it because they guy i bought the stuff from tossed it in. Yes i did look for a trans am wa6 or equal but i had no nluck in finding one around here for that price soni figured why not i already have the car .
Nice work. I don't really remember posting any of those claimed issues as problems that I had so it must have been from locals or other commenters online. In terms of what should be replaced as far as electrical and gauges it truly boils down to what year your car is and what year the donor car is. The only thing I had to rig was the V6 transmission crossmember because the V8 donor trans crossmember was damaged in the rollover and I couldn't source a replacement - the fix was simply changing the trans mount bolt location on the V6 trans crossmember from a hole into a slot using a grinder with cutoff wheel.
Its cool man i wasn't meaning you had said any of that. I know i read that stuff over and over with multiple people saying that. I doubt even a few if them had ever even attempted to do the swap let alone complete one. Like i said it was as easy as just changing out an engine and trand ,gas tank and fuel lines. Only things that were kinda complicated were adding the clutch switch, cutting the holes out for the master cylinder and removing the auto shifter and cutting a hole there. Other rhsn that it was pretty straight forward.
Its cool man i wasn't meaning you had said any of that. I know i read that stuff over and over with multiple people saying that. I doubt even a few if them had ever even attempted to do the swap let alone complete one. Like i said it was as easy as just changing out an engine and trand ,gas tank and fuel lines. Only things that were kinda complicated were adding the clutch switch, cutting the holes out for the master cylinder and removing the auto shifter and cutting a hole there. Other rhsn that it was pretty straight forward.
Can you PM me any pictures of the hole you cut for the manual trans swap? I'm in the middle of doing one as well.
I don't have any pics of when or how i cut the shifter hole out. All i did was order the shifter boot for the t56 because its slightly different than the 5spd one, i traced around it then i used a body saw to cut it out. But i did cut it about an 8th of an inch smaller so that the boot would sit down in it snug
Updated post with some minor info changes and re-upped as many pics as possible.
Ya know, sometimes I think that I've really dragged *** on working on my Camaro and I'm taking things at way too leisurely of a pace (let it sit in storage for over a year after getting a place with a garage and only just moved it into my garage a month and a half ago lmao), but then I think about how long your car has been off the road and feel better
I can't believe this swap was over 10 years ago though, Jesus...
Looks good man. I have the k member and drivetrain from one that I parted out. Still toying with doing something similar, it seems like there are a lot of V6 cars around here with under 120k for next to nothing..
my swap has been done for iver a year now. I just wanted to clear uo some things ive read that came to be untrue, well at least with my swap. As to one if the replys about the rear end and not having any pull in 5th and 6th are untrue. I have 3.24 gears and i did not change the rear end and it has plenty of pull in 5th and 6th gear. heres some of the things ive read on here that i did not have to change as a lot of people swore up and down i would have to. I did not have any trouble or problems with the v6 radiator, fans, gauge cluster, rear end, dash harness, any of the front suspension, none of the fuse boxes or relays, im sure im forgetting something. Things i did change, cross member, trans cross member, engine harness and computer, gas tank with ls1 pump and fuel lines, removed the electronic gas pedal and swapped it out with one that has a clutch pedal. Had to move a few wires in the 3 plugs that go to the computer on the pass side kick panel. Cut a hole for the clutch master cylinder and a hole for the 6 spd shifter and added a boot there. Added the inj 2 fuse wire and a power steering cooler. Most of this was as easy as simply changing an engine and swapping a few parts. Everything bolted right up as it should. Nothing was rigged or had to be made. Parts in all minus new gaskets and stuff that didn't have to be replaced or upgraded i spent about $4500 . Oh i almost forgot to mention the driveshaft. The v6 auto one worked just fine . I only changed it because they guy i bought the stuff from tossed it in. Yes i did look for a trans am wa6 or equal but i had no nluck in finding one around here for that price soni figured why not i already have the car .
Do you remember what wires you moved on the 3 plugs on the kick panel?