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A4 guys, what you using to shift??

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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Default A4 guys, what you using to shift??

OK, I am trying to hook up my factory 442 shifter to my 4L60E (see sig). Its not working too well. My cars cable was too short, so I have to change it out for a longer unit. Since the car is a A4 shifter and the trans is a A4, I need a cable with long of enough reach.

What is all us conversion guys using for this issue. If I have to put a new shifter in, then Id like it to fit inside my console so I get a factory sort of look. Im stumped here, and looking for some help. Thanks guys.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 08:04 PM
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For my cutlass I was lucky, my 2 speed column shifter linkage hook right up to the 4l60e same as OEM. If you are talking about your 72 olds these guys can help. http://www.shiftworks.com/cutlas.htm#7072
For the 87 your on your on.
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Old Sep 11, 2009 | 09:04 PM
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Its for the 87, I think I might have to put a new shifter in to get it 'right'.
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Old Sep 20, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Has anyone used a B&M Hammer to shift their 4L60E?? I cant seem to get the cable brackets to line up at the trans. Thinking Im gonna have to build my own bracket. Anyone else had this??
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Old Sep 21, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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How are you getting them to work, seeing as older cars didn't even come with OD? So the shifters in the 70's would be like 1-2-D-N-R-P, wouldn't you need an extra gear on the shifter itself?
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Old Sep 22, 2009 | 12:21 PM
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Default Problem solved (sorta)

The Hammer (among other B&M / Hurst shifters) are capable of shifting the OE's 4 speed autos. They just have stopper pin/bolt that needs to be removed to allow the shifter to go back 'the extra notch'.

As for GM trannys, 2004R and 700R4, the Hammer is actually designed to be compatible with (via its brackets). The 4L60E as we all know is an evolution of the 700, but in 2001 (Im sure many other years) the gear selector is further from the trans because of the neutral safety switch. This pushes out where the end of the cable has to attach to. B&M's bracket doesnt accomodate for this. To get over this, see my pics and see what I did.

The first pic is before, the second and third is with my 'custom' adapter.

I spent 15 mins on the phone with B&M yesterday and the guy made sure I understood that NONE of their shifters are meant for 4L60E or 4L80E. So I asked him if a guy had a 2001 Camaro and they wanted to put one of these shifters in his car he would be screwed. Dude told me yes. Pretty lame. He was sorta confrontational and didnt seem to want my input as to what could be done on B&M's part to make thier product work with this trans. In the end I was able to get his email and send him some pics and he said he was going to 'send them to engineering'.

In the end, Ive got it all hooked up and it works, although kinda stiff, I think I have to make some minor adjustments. At the shifter end, the trigger seems stiff sometimes, like you have to pull it STRAIGHT up to get it up easily.

Sorry for the long post, but lots to say.
Attached Thumbnails A4 guys, what you using to shift??-img_0929-2.jpg   A4 guys, what you using to shift??-img_0930-2.jpg   A4 guys, what you using to shift??-img_0931-2.jpg  
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 12:43 AM
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You might want to look at Shift Works. They have the kit I will be using for 4L65 in 69 Cutlass.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 06:50 AM
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Use one of the smaller shifters like the Hurst quarterstick, get the a4 gate for it, and cover it with your stock console.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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Ive already got the Hammer installed and seems alright at best. Does Shift Works make anything for my 87?? The website says up to 81 and thats it. I would definately like to keep my factory console thats for sure, but Im $200 into this Hammer, and just dropped $800 for a Dakota Digital dash panel and dimmer.

In all Im actually pretty disappointed with the product from B&M.

On the plus side of the coin, I got the FACTORY hood on the 442 yesterday, it cleared the truck alternator by a MILE, Im pretty shocked actually. I think I got room for the Vortec 'beauty' cover actually.

Put some masking tape upside down on all the highest points on the motor and put the hood down and brought it back up, repeated lots of times lower and lower every time, until I had the hood closed. All is good.
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