LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

You can find Batwing's here. F-body's need an Accusump as I noted. You can make a cheapy pre-oiler (Accusump) that holds a qt. of oil w/ a mechanical open/close valve & a gauge. I have used one for years w/an F-body pan. Custom made headers are your only option if readily available LSX headers won't work.

Yah, I forgot, classifieds you need 6 months or 200 posts. Although, if you see an something you like, I think that you can still PM or e-mail members. PM's & e-mails usually get a faster response than posting in a sales thread, anyway.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I saw the accusump note.. just wondered if it was really required, given that even the truck pans have baffles and windage trays - evidently they must not work that well eh? I'd rather be safe than sorry, but I don't want any more plumbing and nonsense than necessary. The Vette LS2 pans look like the old f-body pan, certainly not like the older batwing pan... can we assume they do just as good a job in high G situations as the batwing? (dry sump would be ideal, but not in the current budget)

I'm avoiding headers. I hate the headers that are on my car. Stainless would be ok, but thats expensive. This is all a budget build. I really like the LS7 manifolds, but I suppose even the standard C5 or C6 manifolds would be better than the truck's, and put the exit of the exhaust in a better position for my application.

6 mo and 200 posts.. hmm. Well, it is what it is, thank you LS1-450 for letting me know.

Since I can't post there yet,
WTB: F-body T56 w/ reasonable miles and good shifting. Need bellhousing, clutch setup, hydraulics, pedals, etc... if anyone has them laying around

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

^^^

As stated, all you have to do is to PM or e-mail the member selling the part you want. You are able to send PM's & e-mail's. Just left click on the members handle (name) & the options PM, e-mail, etc. will pop up. Just click on "send ... a private message," then make your offer or discuss purchasing the part for sale. The member will then return your PM.

In regards to the pre-oiler (Accusump), all I can say is that more than a few LSX engines have suffered oil starvation failures on road courses.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

I know, I just meant that I wouldn't be able to post a want add for people to respond to me with. I've been looking on the FS board and been sending pm's. thanks for taking the time to explain it though, i should have been clearer earlier.

that surprises me a bit, considering how far we've come since the first sbc motor was run on a road course, but I believe it. I suppose it comes down to cost, and the assumption that an f-body car wouldn't be road raced (whereas the vette might be[?]).

Well, my motor is supposed to finally ship on monday, hopefully see it around wednesday.. Then the real fun begins.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Could be.......Vettes do have independant rear suspensions, better brakes, shocks & springs & are better balanced. Where as F-body's have a solid rear axle......etc.. Vettes w/ compitent drivers do very well on our local road courses.


All I can say is that there are two main issues, oil starvation & lack of oil viscocity. Most people don't realize that without an oil cooler, oil temps can reach in excess of 300*F during an open track day 20 minute session. Most street engines, including the LSX, are designed to run near a 70 viscocity @ 100*C, 212*F. So, the street oils basically break down thinner than water @ the higher temps. Further, the stock water (coolant) temp gauge never tells the driver that the OIL is too hot & the owner never knows it, then wonders how his engine failed. I have seen my water gauge never go above 230*F when the oil was 280* F before adding the oil cooler. This is much higher than the standard 20-25*F higher oil temps than water temps while street driving. So, it's either oil temp/viscocity or oil starvation & could be both that cause road course engine failures. I use 15 or 20W-50 racing oil (road course only, not street), a pre-oiler, oil cooler & stand alone oil temp, water temp & oil pressure gauges to be safe.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Well, things are moving along.. Cleaned up my L33, hopefully have some truck bits up for sale soon, get back a few bucks. Switching to f-body accessories, so I'm looking for brackets, plus an alternator, water pump, and power steering pump.
LS1 intake manifold on the way, LS7 exhaust manifolds on the way, cable throttle body on the way.. so those will be next to install. Need to get a better book as well, there's a GMPP book out there somewhere for swaps thats supposed to be good.

Any f-body stuff laying in somebody's garage? :smile: I'll be watching the classifieds!

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Ah, also redid my engine mockup in SolidWorks after taking some measurements on my motor, looks much better now, although still pretty rudimentary. Will make it a little nicer when I get a min.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Parts listed above are test fitted, sort of half installed. Right now I just need to get the motor fully dressed, so I can get some real dimensions for my 3d mockup in SolidWorks.
Alternator bracket, powersteering bracket, crank pulley, alternator, steering pump, and steering cooler on the way...

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Still waiting on my missing engine harness to get shipped..

In the meantime, does it matter which MAF I use, since I'm using the truck harness and pcm? O2 sensors, same question? --> Looks like either, just make sure I tell the guy who's flashing my PCM which I use.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Anyone have a decent dimensional drawing for the LS block that shows EXACTLY where the mounts are? I just need a front view showing them... thanks!

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Crawling along at a snails pace now... Unfortunately, could get a lot more done while I was laid off.. Have L33 engine just about together with LS1 intake/TB, LS7 exhaust manifolds, LS1 accessories, custom wiring harness, and batwing oil pan. Picking up a t56 this weekend or the next. This should allow me to finish the 3d model of the frame, so I can then make some dimensional drawings and start cutting tube... I hope!

cheers,

Jesse

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Just found yoour thread. Love the build, I was acutually looking at doing something similar in a Truimph Spitfire now that my 68 vette project is done. 300hp L33 in a car under 1900lbs. I was also looking at using narrowed C4 rear suspension, but you might want to consider a T45 5 speed trans if weight is a major issue. They're under 100 lbs and have more practical ratios than the T56. Keisler sells the GM version for about $1400 new.

Jimbo1367

lol. Yeah.... I've noticed they can be expensive at times. They do have decent deals time to time. They do offer sales quite often too. I believe 30% off.

I tried low balling them on a 06 SSR 4L65E ( they stated it was from a 6.0L ) they rejected and lowered their origanal price like $50.00 LOL. I walked away. About 10 days later they had their 30% off sale. I bought it then . Alot closer to my low ball offer than their counter offer.

nike5

spartanV8 good build thread, always impressive seeing solidworks being used.

slightly off topic
Your car weighing 1600lb, and with engine mounted behind the front axel line, I don't think you will need power steering, this could be extra weight you could save.
As a comparison, my westfield seight currently has a rover v8, with 10inch steering wheel and quick rack and 205/50/15 tyres does not need it.

With the LS2 engine (not yet fitted) have an electric water pump, and plan to have a belt just between crank and alternator.
My belief is these engines only have a tensioner on the belt, because the belt is so long. If belt will stretch by a percentage, on a long belt that can be a noticeable movement, but on a short run should be negligable.

To save further weight, will be fitting a small daihatsu charade alternator as I have very limited electrics to support.

I will be using a T56 gearbox, but it is so big and heavy would investigate alternatives.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

That probably would have been a good idea, but I'm a bit far along to change now.. Also I wanted to have the trans bolt right up to the motor with no custom part or adapter nonsense... Thanks though, its a good idea, maybe on the next one =)

Jimbo, I gave up on all the local places here and bought a motor from a place called Rhine Auto in Wisconsin. They were super friendly, and even with shipping it was way cheaper.. go figure

I agree it doesn't need PS, per se, however.. Every manual steering car I've driven left a bad taste in my mouth. Its not just a track toy, I want it to be nice to drive daily, supposing we get more than 2 days of sun this year.. Weight wise, its not much, a few pounds. I'll balance that against the hollow plastic seats I'm looking at, I think the set weighs 10 lbs.. I'm also trying not to mix components, or at least as minimally as possible. That way if I blow an alternator on a cross country trip, I can just tell the parts guy its for a camaro and be done, not try and remember what daihatsu I pulled it out of. Again, maybe on the next car I'll go more track oriented and go manual, lighten it to the extreme...

thanks,

Jesse

merim123

iTrader: (11)

where did this build end up?

Bilster

iTrader: (21)

Have you considered the Corvette C6 LS3 pan? It's baffled and the configuration seems to be more manageable.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Still a work in progress... The typical busy at work and trying to buy a house getting in the way..

Can see progress in the updates section on my website, although I haven't found much time to update that either sadly..
www.spartanv8.com

Thanks,

Jesse

Bilster - I agree, may upgrade to that sometime soon... batwing pan will have to do for now. Thanks!