Ls1 Miata
Been getting allot done sence the last update. The cooling system has been redone, the fenders and bumper are back on, the torque arm has been strengthened, the interior is back in, and the key now makes the engine crank
.
Torque arm welds
Phase 1 of torque arm mod
Torque arm mod phase 2
My baby looking pretty in the background
Try to ignore all the miscellaneous things in the background
Now the torque arm will never even think about flexing
.Torque arm welds
Phase 1 of torque arm mod
Torque arm mod phase 2
My baby looking pretty in the background
Try to ignore all the miscellaneous things in the background
Now the torque arm will never even think about flexing
Interior getting pieced back together
She needs a bath
It took a while to get the throttle linkage correctly adjusted
Not pictured is the steering shaft modification. We put an s2000 steering joint into the Miata steering shaft to allow it to bend around the header. Its now attached via a bushing that bolts it tightly to the framerail. I'll snap some pictures tomorrow.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Go to google and click on images at the top left of the screen and search for "camaro torque arm". Should give you a pretty good idea what a "proper" fabricated torque arm should look like. That beast you created may work... but dang...
Haha, it will work and yes it is a beast. Weighs 35 pounds now. I guarantee that if this thing were used in a semi with 2000 pound feet of torque that pulled a 20 ton load from a dead stop and got full traction on dry pavement it still wouldn't even come close to bending. Its completely over built and is utter overkill. Torque arms like "Camaro torque arms" on google are what inspired me to build mine. If I had access to a pipe bender I would've saved some weight and built one out of tube, but this thing will serve the same purpose. If anything the weight is being added at the bottom middle which is in the correct place to add weight if it has to be added.
while the welds arent what I like to see, they should work fine. Just a little ugly. Are you using a tick welder on that torque arm?
Local guy to me is building a 6.0 Miata. Cant wait to see one in person. Another local guy has his v8 s2000 already done though, and even with drag radials he cant hook it up lol.
Local guy to me is building a 6.0 Miata. Cant wait to see one in person. Another local guy has his v8 s2000 already done though, and even with drag radials he cant hook it up lol.
while the welds arent what I like to see, they should work fine. Just a little ugly. Are you using a tick welder on that torque arm?
Local guy to me is building a 6.0 Miata. Cant wait to see one in person. Another local guy has his v8 s2000 already done though, and even with drag radials he cant hook it up lol.
Local guy to me is building a 6.0 Miata. Cant wait to see one in person. Another local guy has his v8 s2000 already done though, and even with drag radials he cant hook it up lol.
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Let me start by commending you on taking on a detailed swap like a miata. Its gonna be one cool car once completed and you will have/already have learned many things in the process. I was young once as well and I am still pretty young so take recommendations when you can and don't discredit them so fast. its probably your quick to bite back attitude that has dispelled some others in this thread. Sometimes a simple I will look into it suffices.
I think that torque arm looks fairly strong but I am curious what kind of steel it is made of. You claimed it was much stronger than the offerings for F-bodies etc. which just for an example are commonly made out of chromoly 4140 or 4340 steel. Is that what you are using? The metallurgy makes as much of a difference as the welds do so keep that in mind. Some 1020 steel laying around in the shop may be made to work but its gonna have to be bigger heavier and overbuilt and I think thats the direction you are going. Sorry for the long winded post wish you the best of luck on the swap.
I think that torque arm looks fairly strong but I am curious what kind of steel it is made of. You claimed it was much stronger than the offerings for F-bodies etc. which just for an example are commonly made out of chromoly 4140 or 4340 steel. Is that what you are using? The metallurgy makes as much of a difference as the welds do so keep that in mind. Some 1020 steel laying around in the shop may be made to work but its gonna have to be bigger heavier and overbuilt and I think thats the direction you are going. Sorry for the long winded post wish you the best of luck on the swap.
Let me start by commending you on taking on a detailed swap like a miata. Its gonna be one cool car once completed and you will have/already have learned many things in the process. I was young once as well and I am still pretty young so take recommendations when you can and don't discredit them so fast. its probably your quick to bite back attitude that has dispelled some others in this thread. Sometimes a simple I will look into it suffices.
I think that torque arm looks fairly strong but I am curious what kind of steel it is made of. You claimed it was much stronger than the offerings for F-bodies etc. which just for an example are commonly made out of chromoly 4140 or 4340 steel. Is that what you are using? The metallurgy makes as much of a difference as the welds do so keep that in mind. Some 1020 steel laying around in the shop may be made to work but its gonna have to be bigger heavier and overbuilt and I think thats the direction you are going. Sorry for the long winded post wish you the best of luck on the swap.
I think that torque arm looks fairly strong but I am curious what kind of steel it is made of. You claimed it was much stronger than the offerings for F-bodies etc. which just for an example are commonly made out of chromoly 4140 or 4340 steel. Is that what you are using? The metallurgy makes as much of a difference as the welds do so keep that in mind. Some 1020 steel laying around in the shop may be made to work but its gonna have to be bigger heavier and overbuilt and I think thats the direction you are going. Sorry for the long winded post wish you the best of luck on the swap.
I doubt you will find any markings on it to tell you what grade steel it is. I would check with your supplier to find out though. One quick thing on material grade is longevity due to stress. Some metals just hold up better than others. By putting this motor, you are already going to be causing lots of stress on the chassis. When you do routine checks, just check all other components at their stress points, and you should be good. If not... you will know. haha
Looking good man. Now get it on the road!
Looking good man. Now get it on the road!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 585
Likes: 0
From: Green Oak, MI
I'd take some people's advice.
Have you ever seen suspension move on a car in motion or under load? Things that looks nice and strong turn to jelly.
That single bar, regardless of gussets, welded material, and everything else will flex. There is a reason as someone else said that Camaro torque arms are built the way they are.
You get into wheel hop and you'll start hammering on that part. It may work for a while but if it does fail it won't be pretty depending on where it fails.
Have you ever seen suspension move on a car in motion or under load? Things that looks nice and strong turn to jelly.
That single bar, regardless of gussets, welded material, and everything else will flex. There is a reason as someone else said that Camaro torque arms are built the way they are.
You get into wheel hop and you'll start hammering on that part. It may work for a while but if it does fail it won't be pretty depending on where it fails.
I doubt you will find any markings on it to tell you what grade steel it is. I would check with your supplier to find out though. One quick thing on material grade is longevity due to stress. Some metals just hold up better than others. By putting this motor, you are already going to be causing lots of stress on the chassis. When you do routine checks, just check all other components at their stress points, and you should be good. If not... you will know. haha
Looking good man. Now get it on the road!
Looking good man. Now get it on the road!
I'd take some people's advice.
Have you ever seen suspension move on a car in motion or under load? Things that looks nice and strong turn to jelly.
That single bar, regardless of gussets, welded material, and everything else will flex. There is a reason as someone else said that Camaro torque arms are built the way they are.
You get into wheel hop and you'll start hammering on that part. It may work for a while but if it does fail it won't be pretty depending on where it fails.
Have you ever seen suspension move on a car in motion or under load? Things that looks nice and strong turn to jelly.
That single bar, regardless of gussets, welded material, and everything else will flex. There is a reason as someone else said that Camaro torque arms are built the way they are.
You get into wheel hop and you'll start hammering on that part. It may work for a while but if it does fail it won't be pretty depending on where it fails.
Other than a pesky tranny leak, mine is doing great! Put in a manual steering rack the other day, and should be putting in some adjustable rear upper control arms today to help dial out some more of the camber. So far everything has taken my beating on it though... and i have not been nice. haha It is so rewarding to have it on the road. Still lots to do, but at least i can drive it and stay motivated.
Damn. Tough crowd. I think the biggest mistake you made was having the courage to put too much detail on the web. That torque arm looks like you could kill buffalo with it.
The car should be a blast to drive. If your project goes like mine you will never be done working on it anyway. Since you did all the work yourself you will have the knowledge to redo anything that doesn't work out right anyway.
And I'm glad you got rid of the PVC pipe. PVC is brittle, the heat cycles would have shattered the pipe in short order.
The car should be a blast to drive. If your project goes like mine you will never be done working on it anyway. Since you did all the work yourself you will have the knowledge to redo anything that doesn't work out right anyway.
And I'm glad you got rid of the PVC pipe. PVC is brittle, the heat cycles would have shattered the pipe in short order.
I agree about talking with the supplier to find out what kind of steel it is. As others have said it should be strong enough. My only recommendation at this point would be to get ahold of some DOM chromoly tubing down the road to make a smaller and lighter version of the torque arm to save some weight.