I say scrap the DBW idea and lets go DBC and move forward. It will end up being cheaper in the long run and a hell of a lot simpler to diagnose.

 

I was about to go DBC, but.......

Victory is mine!!! She lives again.
Not the best video & my camera fell over, but she is running.
Thanks to John @Speartech for the correct truck pedal & TAC harness.



http://s971.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=VID00162.mp4

 

Congrats! I'll be interested to see how you mount that pedal.

 

I got most of the gauges wired up. The speed Hut gauges are very nice because they have harnesses that connect all the powers & the grounds. I used the power & fuel wire from the wiring going to the old gauge cluster. Tach wire to PCM, wire to oil pressure, & wire to water temp. I still need to calibrate the fuel gauge, connect the inverter wiring for the speedo.

Do we use 4cyl for the tach?

I did get it out of the garage today. The 1st time in 18months. It was out for about 5minutes before I had to push it back in. Something is still not quite right. I am not sure if a final tune is all it needs or if it is something else. Getting closer though.

http://s971.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=VID00110.mp4

 

Congrats! I like your car before the swap, and even more now. Very nice

 

Congratulations!!! Its great to hear you powered through your wiring problems and never gave up. Job well done!!!

 

The engine starts & idles rough. I thought I would use awsome (non-existant) tuning powers & use HP Tuners to get this car drivable. Instead I turned my PCM into a brick. I am not sure what I did. It was idling better then I hit the gas & it died fast. The next day there wsa no comunication w/ the PCM. I put on another PCM & it started again.
So, in summary: Leave tuning to the proffesionals or spend more time learning how.
So, I am going to wait until I can find someone to dyno tune it.

Are these o2 sensors upsidedown? This is the only way they fit, & they are the part number that was on PSI manual sent with the harness.



Here are the gauges installed, not the greatest pic:

 

It appears that they are upside down. The tab is what locks it into place. Your right they wont go on but one way due to the design on the inside of the female. If its not throwing any codes I say tape it and forget about it.

The gauges look great! I will also agree with you on the tuning issues. I am mentally disabled when it comes to tuning and understanding all the aspects of it.

 

The gauge setup is very sharp!

 

That truck pedal is no joke. It is big & unattractive. I did get it mounted though. Use what you have on hand right? Well me & my Dad used some box steel from a satellite dish. I'll try to get a pic of it sometime.

 

Here is my new radiator from Speedway. It has the inlet & outlet on the same side. It is 28" x 19" & 3" thick. It sits up a little too high, but I think a little grinding/cutting on the tray it sits in will fix that. Here is the transmission cooler too. We made some brackets of 3/4" L shaped aluminium that go across the core support in front of the radiator. Pics of installed later.

 

The o2 sensors are throwing codes, so I guess they will not work. I was wondering if it was only the wiring that was different? Can I re-pin the o2 sensors to make them work?
Looking at the picture the top 2 wires are black. bottom left is white, bottom right is blue.

 

Speedway radiator in, but I am not sure the filler cap will allow my hood to close.

 

congrats. I noticed it stalled once it was next to the DODGE truck. LOL.

 

Does any see a problem with running my tranny line along the frame rail & fender? It is away from the headers. I wanted to use mostly hardline, but I do not know how to make the flare on the end that goes into the transmission. Here are the differences in flares & how I want to run the line.

My friend can make flares like this:

Here is the end that goes into the transmission:


Here is how I want to route my lines, This is just 1 of them mocked up.

 

The original path for your tranny lines were up against the block and out the front. If you talk to BMF150 on here he ran his lines similar to the factory style. If you have a hose and hydraulics store nearby they can make you any line that you may want or need. Fortunately for me there is two within 15 minutes of my house.

 

For the Trans Cooling Lines, i ran mine up on the fender well the same as you are wanting too, i Used all AN lines.

I also used the truck pedal, i cut off the pedal and welded my nova one on, The assy actually bolted right in, there was a small bolt that was already in the car holding the shield around the column that lined up with the bottom hole in the pedal assy and the top right hole in the pedal assy almost perfect lined up with another hole in the firewall, i just opened that hole up and put a nut and bolt in it, easy peasy.

As far as the O2 sensors. You need bosch 15284 O2s, they are upstream O2s with the right connectors. Thats what im running and no issues yet.

Good luck i just got my car running and my new booster was bad, this weekend ill be on the road enjoying the fruits.

 

what trans is that again? the 65? i ran rubber trans lines down the fender to 90° elbows i fabbed using the factory fittings and fuel line elbows. my sig pic shows them running along the fender. you should have no problems doing something similar.

 

Thanks guys! I will likely run my lines similar to yours Trevor.
74Nova thanks for the P/N.

 

Just read this whole thread.

Nice job plowing through the problems.
The pedal issue was that you needed a truck pedal and TAC?
What ecm are you using?

John