I'm currently working on my 3rd publication for Motorbooks which is named "The LS-series Swap Manual" and would like to invite the members of this forum to submit suggestions for content. We all know the basics, motor mounts, fueling, F-body harness, etc... that info is abundant in this forum and all these basics will be included. I have a good outline to work with already but lets see if there are any other good ideas (or concerns).

What I would like to know, is what unexpected snags you ran into during the process of your LS-swap? What did you do to address the concern? Another thing: why did you choose the vendor / conversion parts / accessory drive components you used?

Thanks for any outsider input, you can post in here - or send me a PM with your ideas.

BTW: I'm aware that there is already one LS retrofit book released, and even another (besides mine) in the works by someone I met not long ago. Both guys are members of LS1tech.

 

[QUOTE=-Joseph-;
BTW: I'm aware that there is already one LS retrofit book released, and even another (besides mine) in the works by someone I met not long ago. Both guys are members of LS1tech. [/QUOTE]

Without LS1Tech, it would be alot more diffucult to write a book, I would imagine. Just curious, what kind of sales volume do these type of books generate, and roughly, what kind of return on investment? Thanks

 

Have lots of pics.

Talk about header options.

 

I had a snag with the VATS Relay(VATS was tuned out) in my Camaro interrupting the Starter Signal..as in it ate up the Amps and the Starter didn't have enough umph behind it. Once I bypassed it, the car fired right up.

That was just something I ran into..everything else was kinda simple.

 

You may want to talk about the different types of Oxygen sensors out there and the differences between them. This appears to be a common question as to what will work with what ecm?

 

I would make note about the truck vs. car engines since there seems to be (and probably always will) a whole group of people who think you HAVE to have a "car" engine for performance. With 5.3 engines produced in a nearly 2:1 ratio of all others there should be more coverage of builds using that block. On second thought forget it and keep the secret between us... I like my cheap 5.3's

Another thought would be the conversion issues / performance gains of using car intakes on truck engines. The first time I did one I didn't fully realize the intake and fuel rails weren't the only changes required.

 

Sources for and different fuse/relay set ups for the stand alone harness?

 

I would suggest a whole chapter on truck (iron block) vs car engines, what interchanges, transmission options, etc.
The supply of reasonably priced LS1's is drying up. I dont think the production numbers of LS2s and 3s will make them a reasonably priced option for a relative novice. The use of a 5.3 or 6.0 truck motor makes the swap as affordable as a SBC engine project. If you can make the cost similar to to the old SBC and take the "intimidation factor" out of fuel injection, you could get a much wider audience interested in LS swaps.

 

I'm putting an LS6/4L60E into an '87 Mercedes 560SEC and have had to invent / fabricate every single piece of this conversion. If you'd like to discuss a non-standard project, I'd be glad to participate.

 

Another question I see asked a lot (and I have some questions posted on here) is cooling system and steam port options.

 

My 82 corvette is getting a LS1 in it right now, Although there are alot of off the shelf swap parts some of them do not work with the two differnt motor mount applications that are out there for my vette.

Some tips though

1. Bypass or disable the Vats system it will cause less problems.

2. Describe the OIL pan Options. A F body pan seems to fit most any application. Truck pans are to low for most cars.

3. on a C3 corvette the Water pump most be modified because the Heater fittings run right into the upper A arm. as well as the Thermostat housing. This was fixed by changing out the fittings with some 90 degree ones for the heater and a strait thermostat housing to make it point out of the front.

4. Disable the rear two 02 sensors They are not needed this can be done in the ECM tune.

5. There are LS swap headers out there for my car, but stock exaust manifolds and shorti headers seem to work in alot of swap applications without clearence issues.

6. Also for my application the stock radiator and fans out of a f body work for my application.

7. to answer a steam line question, In most c3 applications I have seen the steam line simply gets capped off and causes no issues what so ever. However if you retain a F body radiator you can simply run a line to it. I have also seen the steam line simply get ran back into the upper radiator hose as well.

These are just some of the things I can think of on a c3 application they are by far not the all.

If you really want ALOT of good info, go to www.digitalcorvettes.com and do a search for a thread called the offical c3 LS swap thread it is in the c3 section under tech info.

The guys username is superpowers and his name is josh, He custom makes alot of parts needed for a LS swap. He even makes AC brackets to retain the stock AC unit in a c3. He is also responsible for BOWTIE OVERDRIVES making a crossmember with a adjustable mount for LS1 swap applications. He is a excusive seller of alot of LS swap parts. Even though alot of these tips are for C3 corvettes there is alot of INFO in there as far as DEMINSIONS ON OIL PANS and ACCESSORIES and all kinds of stuff.

also a LS1 in a C3 is a very popular swap and c3s range from 68 to 82 so a writup on a c3 takes care of ALOT of years of corvettes.

 

I agree with 82cetuner

C2 & C3 Corvette LS swaps are popular as ever. I have the existing LS swap book and it seems to focus more on A and G bodys. Get more Y body stuff in there. Its a big market as well.

The waterpump mod is probably the single hardest thing to overcome in the swap.

 

Another section that might be helpful to people is carb vs. EFI.
Not which is better than the other (We have all seen where that leads), but more of cost to do one vs. the other. Some people think carb only because they think it will be cheaper since they are unfamiliar with the wiring and programming involved. Might be a good side-by-side breakdown to show people. Like cost for the intake, carb, and MSD box vs. the cost to modify their existing harness and have the ECU tuned.

 

I want to know how to wire up an lsx alternator in an old car, when NOT using the factory computer or wiring

what it takes to put the car stuff on a truck engine

 

OK took the liberty to to post the link myself http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=105822

Hope it does not break any rules, not trying to sell or advertise anything here, this is just a really good writeup, it is not updated because there is alot more new info that has not been added into the blank spots. The complete water pump modification is in here as well.

Some more things to consider to put into the book.

1. All types of LS engines and the cars they come in IE all cars a LS1 engine came in, and also the truck style LS engines and the vehicles they came in, ALSO dont forget about the holden commodor, For the aussie guys its their only source of a LS engine, and shipping is just nasty if they try to get one anywhere else.

2. Explain the 24x and 58x reluctor ring issues, primarly that a LS1 ECM will only work with a 24X so if they do not get the ECM with the engine they need to address this.

3. Explain accessory setups, stock vehicles and aftermarket setups.

4. When doing a t-56 swap some cars will require a shifter modification and some wont, also motor mounts have a affect on this as well.

5. Include real world applications by including cars and having the owner descrive the modifications They did, and during that also suggest other options that are out there.

I know that SPEED and PEFORMANCE in arizona have put LS1s in just about everything they make quit a few interesting swap parts like a tail shaft to maintain a manual speedo cable for a auto and a manual

 

I'll tackle a few of these at a time, I've been at work all day unfortunately.

I am unsure how much the publisher has tied up in each project, I would estimate 20-30K and it probably takes 1-2 years to recoup from what I would think. Book companies advance a certain amount to the writer for each project as progress is made, then as the book sells that advance amount is paid back until the amount advanced is zeroed out - from that point the writer can make additional royalties provided the book still sells and is popular. It is not a very lucrative endeavor by any means.

This manual will have 400 color images and have plenty of header and donor manifold/cat setups.

Good info for the 93-97 guys. I plan to have a few words on the LT1-LS1 swap.

Easy enough, I'll make a note of it.

 

Yep; plan on both.

For the DIY harness conversions I gather? I'll do some checking into that.

That is exactly what I am doing.

I plan on having a few "example" non-conventional swaps, but due to book sizing constraints, I probably can't do a step-by-step. The unique things that these types of cars/trucks require would be more of what I am interested in. If you have good quality pictures, I'd be interested in using these also.

 

Definitely.

Good info, I will take note of these suggestions. There are a ton of these cars also.

I am in this forum a lot and remember seeing someone do the water pump modification.

 

I plan on this and agree many people don't realize how many carburetor complimenting parts are required.

No problem, you can find that info in the forums if the search is working, but I plan on having many wiring solutions.

Good tips, I already started on the engine "source" guide, 24x vs 58x and sourced many accessory solutions. One of the Australian guys on this forum has helped me with the Holden-specific engine listings.

 

You could probably devote a whole chapter to DBW, which pedals work with which TAC modules, and which tune to use with which one ect. It seems like alot of people get into trouble mis-matching parts, only to find out their engine will only idle with no response from the throttle.

For example, I'm trying to figure out right now what the difference is between my 2003 truck pedal and TAC, and a 2004 van pedal and TAC, the truck has nine wires that run between them, and the van has six.