seawalkersee

Uhhhhhh...isn't that air filter upside down? Some better things for handling. Cut 1 coil off of the rear and 1.25-1.5 coils off of the front. It will lower the car and stiffin up the car. It feels more firm but not harsh. Now, if you REALLY feel creative, you can throw a pair of Bilstines off of a cobra IRS on the rear of your car. You will need to make a sleeve to fill the gap between the t-bird rubber shock bushings and the body or you will get a "clunk" when you stop and take off (ask me how I know). You can get the mark VIII Lower control arms from a bone yard along with the 'luminum carrier and cut some weight off of the rear of the car. You can also throw poly bushings on all 4 corners and get it feeling like it belongs on the road. It will feel like you were driving a waterbed after you get it firm. I LOVE mine as it sits.

The Bilstines are a bit firm for my taste, but for what I paid for them, I can deal with it. Koni adjustables are the only game for the fronts. Step up to Mark VIII front brakes (require 16" wheels and no the 15" spare in your trunk will not work on the front after that) and you will notice a night and day difference.

Hope this helps.

SWS

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Good eyes! Hahaha, I looked at that pic a bunch of times and never even noticed it!

I already cut 1.5 off the front but I was waiting on my Mark VIII control arms to fall off a yard car before I did the rear. I hate being wrong about stuff and since I didn't have a set to mock up I didn't want to go too far with my cuts. Since it's cold that will have to wait for warm weather - I don't do the 'yard thing in the snow unless the parts will come off with my sawzall or I am desperate.

I wondered what I could do to firm the thing up. I always felt the car was a bit to wallowy (is that a word) in the twists. I was going to buy new shocks but now that I have your recommendations I will check them out. I have a set of Mark VIII brakes waiting on the sidelines which is why the car has 16" anniversary Cougar wheels.

Speaking of snow... I found the car to be quite balanced last night.

B-Rad420

iTrader: (1)

You may be able to get some more steering linkage clearance. I have a Mark VIII and some put Mach 1 exhaust manifolds on them after modifying the steering linkage (read, relocating). Mach 1 Manifolds are a shorty header style over the factory log style that comes on S/DOHC 4.6's. So some sort of factory vette, f body, or truck manifold may work if you go on the Mark VIII forum and read around or ask. If you find an LSC Mark VIII (95-98) they have a 3.29 alum. 8.8 center section with a mustang style Trac Lock posi.

B-Rad420

iTrader: (1)

Thunderbird Super coupes can be found in yards and they have an 8.8 centersection with a trac lock posi. Not sure on the gears though.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

LOL, You caught me, I used an 02 escalade filter, it was the biggest with the most area I could find. It fit best upside down since it was so thick. I'm guessing it filter as well in either direction. And no signs of it separating from the metal screen.

seawalkersee

The mark VIII LCA's also need an aluminum spacer to keep the springs sitting right. I THINK I have a guy that still has a set, but am not sure. They are custom. As far as the rears, the Marks were not lockers unless there was a seperate diff for the LSC, they were one wheel peelers. The track lock used in the SC can be swapped over to any of those IRS rears for the birds or marks. The gears differed from year to year and if the car was auto or manual.

SWS

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I thought they were. Every Mark I have seen has (according to the door sticker) an open 3:08 in it. Each one I find I test to see if it has been changed to a LSD but none I've seen were. I'm sure a 3:08 would be dandy for the open road but I can't imagine how boring that would be in the city.

B-Rad420

iTrader: (1)

No, I stated LSC Mark VIII have posi 3.29s. The LSC was an option that removed the chrome trim from the bumpers and sides, added dual exhaust, posi and 3.29's, and HID headlights on all 96's and some 95's. Regular models have 3.08s with open diffs.

seawalkersee

Missed the LSC part. Sorry. With the 4.6, the best rear gear I had was the 3.73. When I changed from the 2.37 to that, it was the BEST mod I had done. I did not want to go to 4.1s because it was my DD. When that rear started to go, I swapped out a set of 3.55s I had lyin around. I miss the 3.73s like nobodys buisness.

I also forgot to add that if you bolt some strips from the front of the K to the rear, it will continue to make it a stiffer chassis. I have that done, but have not made the other set that is going to go from the K to the front of the frame/body rails. With each step it was continuing to get more "firm" as it drove. All the way up to the upgraded rear shocks. They are great if the road is smooth and twisty, but for bumps, it went from smooth and firm to harsh....Still worth it IMHO but just be warned.

SWS

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Do you have pics of this? I would probably weld them in if I was doing it. Stiff chassis cars don't bother me unless it's F1 stiff. I would rather have the car a bit stiff than the lumbering insecure feel this car has delivered since I purchased it. The shocks, rear lower control arms and new gears are at the top of the list of things to do.

I saw an LSC in the yard a few months back but didn't know about the gears and didn't check the car. A hunting I will go... a hunting I will go...

seawalkersee

Actually, I do not have any pix of it as I am a total computer retard and the wife has a new camera but does not have the software installed yet...never thougth I would need pix of that. Easy to make as soon as you see where they go. If you look at the bottom of the k, you will see some small holes directly below the pivot for the LCA you will see a hole, you will need to enlarge it and put a piece of 1/4" flat strip there, and one to the opposing corner...Know what, I will find you a link...it's just easier.

SWS

seawalkersee

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...=braces&page=3
If you scroll down to post #35, you will see whats up with them.

SWS

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

You mean these?


I can grab some 1" box tubing and build some in about an hour.
It looks like he just took the strut bar from the front of another car, cut it to length, flattened one end and welded some tabs to it. I would build mine from square tube, pie cut the ends to seal them, weld it to the subframe and skip the bolts - unless you can think of a reason it shouldn't be welded in.

seawalkersee

I made them out of that front bar for two reasons. I had some lying around and with the bend, you can also go from the K member too the frame rails of the car with the same piece I built. I have not made the tabs yet to mount from the K to the fram as of yet (busy busy) With the curve to the outside it should make it even more firm AND allow you to drop the exhaust without moving/removing the braces...Skipping steps, makes it a TON easier with no lift and 2+ foot wide shoulders under the car.

The reason I bolted them in was; if the car has been wrecked and the K is tweaked, you may run out of room to align it. I have to say that they do not squeak and just adding them with no other mods will make the car more stiff. I have a set of the actual KB ones on my car and built these for several of the guys in the club. One of them put them on and there was not any other mods to his suspension. He said it felt great and I know him well and take his word for it.

I expect some track times this spring by the way.

SWS

krazy4

iTrader: (5)

Damn man, you hauled *** on this build!

I used to have one of these cars. It was nice and rode really smooth. As mentioned before though, it was so slooooooow. lol
The 5.3 should fix that.

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

cool. I always liked the MN12 tbirds/cougars. I had a 91 cougar LS 3.8 and a 93 tbird supercoupe 3.8SC. MN12 was the body style, that was around long before GM started using the name for the GTO's transmission



to whoever said they are slower than the second coming of the great pumpkin. i beg to differ. my SC with only a 5% pulley and a flowmaster cat back ran conssistant 14.6 runs which for a 4000lb V6 car from 1993 is pretty damn quick

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKqZO5HtvsU

auto 89-93 cars were 3:27 and 94-95 cars i think were 3:27 unless they had traction control and then they were 3:31 open. The manual cars were 2:73

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

So you made (or are making) some from the k member to the body? That sounds like a good idea. The one from the k member to the body will be bolted in, but I think I will weld the k member set in.

Hmmm... track times. I didn't build the car for that and hadn't really planned on it. I may try it after I have a new one piece drive shaft built. I'm still using the stock fuse... uh, I mean crimped drive shaft.

Thanks. I had a lot of evenings and weekends in the shop married to my welder and other tools.


I said that, but I wasn't referring to all MN12's, just the stock and NA variety. The problem: my car is a 1997 and the last year for SC's was 1995. Since it was a NA 3.8 auto it WAS slower than the second coming... If it was an SC things could / would have been completely different... maybe, maybe not. Since there are no real upgrades for the NA 3.8 an engine swap was the only option.

Future upgrades may include a small turbo or some other silliness but that has yet to be determined. Main thing is it has to be daily driver reliable and pump gas friendly.

1995blacktattop

iTrader: (2)

My 91 cougar was as quick as a 305 TBI camaro

ok yeah i guess that is slow as dog ****

TROYCO

iTrader: (1)

another cheap alternative is to find a thunderbird LX V8, or a mercury cougar XR7 and scavenge the centre diff. they usually have a trac loc and 3.27 gears.

seawalkersee

No they don't. ONLY THE SC, (according to the lincoln guy above) the LSC, and the supercharged XR7 have lockers in them.

As far as the mounts, I have run out of time. I am still working as hard as I can to get a lot of stuff done, I am just too slow. When I build some (I need to get some more of the braces) I will throw down at least as many sets for which I have the metal.

SWS