Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Info to eliminate DOD?

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Old 12-11-2009 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by John McGraw
You know, I'll bet that the ARP bolts are not much more than the stock GM bolts, and you won't have to buy a torque angle gauge to tighten them properly. The ARP bolts just have a torque setting and not the angle like stock torque-to-yield bolts. Just a thought.


Regards, John McGraw
Thanks, for the info John. Got any idea where the best price on the ARP's would be? I've got ARP studs on my 6.0 and I really like them, but I have to tell you, the price he got on the bolts was REALLY reasonable. Not sure of the circumstances.
Old 12-11-2009 | 05:14 PM
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We have them on hand. they are 7.89 for the set. the arp ones. they are almost the same cost as the GM ones. good peace of mind if you ask me.
Old 12-11-2009 | 05:31 PM
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[QUOTE=John@Scoggin;12610325]We have them on hand. they are 7.89 for the set. the arp ones. they are almost the same cost as the GM ones. good peace of mind if you ask me.[/QUOTE
Thanks! I'll call him tonight. Don't know if he has bought the others or not. Ron
Old 12-11-2009 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by John@Scoggin
We have them on hand. they are 7.89 for the set. the arp ones. they are almost the same cost as the GM ones. good peace of mind if you ask me.
$7.98 for a set of ARP LS head bolts? Or have I missed something?

Last edited by rsz288; 12-11-2009 at 11:01 PM.
Old 12-11-2009 | 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rojs234
** rsz288 ** I REALLY want to thank you for coming back in and explaining the lifters. I was so confused last night that I spent some time searching for the thread where I had gotten that info. Lo and behold, I found it in a thread by ** Geezer's Garage ** titled *5.3 LH6 Progress and Problems *. It was then I discovered that YOU were one of the main ones providing the info in that thread, so thanks both times!! Now an update...I talked to my friend and he found Fel-Pro head gaskets and GM bolts somewhere at what seemed like a very reasonable price. We already had the Vortec lifters and the Gen lV plastic retainers because at first we thought that was all we needed to change. I had one of those " senior moments " and even though I have a 6.0 engine, I had forgotten you have to pull the heads to change lifters. Lost in the past I guess, LOL. Anyway, as it stands now, we're going to change pans (f-body), change to LS2 vally cover with the o-rings (smooth top), change lifters, plastic retainers, head gaskets, and bolts. Anything else? Anybody know how much oil pressure (guage) we'll see with the DOD oil pump? Is it possible to access the relief spring in the pump when I pull the pan or would I have to pull front cover? Thought I might see if normal 5.3 had different relief spring. After posting this, I read the post from **ErikSOCAL**, and after checking the link he provided, I wonder if this engine might have the normal oil pump? It is out of a midsize Envoy SUV. Anybody know if I could tell by Vin# or possibly a number on the pump itself or a color code on pump or releif spring?? Thanks again to everyone, Ron
You're welcome Ron. Glad the info has helped one and all get through the DOD mystery along with other posters with hands on experience with DOD/AFM mechanicals.

We have helped a lot of customers that purchased surplus GM crate motors with DOD make well informed choices to take them forward.

There is a part number on the rear of the oil pump body usually. That doesnt help for a quick check.

Whether using a weaker relief spring in the pump helps or not, depends a lot on mains/big end/cam bearings. With 30% more volume being pumped, the regular relief port may not flow enough. Sorry no clear answer on this. As I mentioned in another post, have seen regular pumps on DOD engines. Only clear identification factor seemed to be that there was a number of sorts [laser] engraved in the front cover of the pump, whereas the HV pump front cover had no numbers.

Old 12-12-2009 | 01:30 AM
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i know this is the complete opposite of the post but is it impossible to KEEP the DOD function..?i actually like it .. and although Im not to worried about gas prices it does help and i would like to keep it if possible.
Old 12-12-2009 | 07:38 PM
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Just to review and add some info to what I shared on my Geezer's Garage and kwikperf.com sites--I'm using a GTO pan on an '05 DOD 5.3 so after I killed several lifters, I installed an LS2 valley cover, installed a set of conventional lifters but left the DOD oil pump. My oil pressure gauge will show as high as 70 psi on a cold morning but runs between 55 and 60 at operating temperature. I have about 12,000 miles on the swap and it has made an awesome daily driver out the old 1987 BMW.
Old 12-12-2009 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by blakss
i know this is the complete opposite of the post but is it impossible to KEEP the DOD function..?i actually like it .. and although Im not to worried about gas prices it does help and i would like to keep it if possible.
It is possible to keep DOD, but if it is not in the original car or truck, there can be a catch. One of the parameters monitored by the ECM to go into DOD cylinder deactivation mode is the vacuum in the brake booster. If it is too low, brake effect is reduced, and DOD will remain on 8 cylinders.

With some DOD/AFM engines the brake booster vacuum is monitored via the body control module and the status sent to the ECM on the CAN bus, others it is monitored directly on the ECM. G8 is one platform that the brake booster sensor is direct connected to the ECM. Some trucks go via BCM.

Just depends what tune is being run in the ECM.
Old 12-13-2009 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by John@Scoggin
We have them on hand. they are 7.89 for the set. the arp ones. they are almost the same cost as the GM ones. good peace of mind if you ask me.
OK.....sorry I didn't get back sooner, I was out all day yesterday. John, could you be more specific? Exactly what does a " set " for 7.89 consist of ?
One bolt, one head, both heads ? I like the idea of using regular torque values instead of the torque to yield angle system, but as I said, my friend is on a tight budget. However we would like to buy from sponsors if possible, because we both appreciate what you do. Could you give me a price, either here, or if you prefer, by PM for ARP head bolts for "05 Gen lV 5.3, and a pair of head gaskets? Ron

Last edited by rojs234; 12-13-2009 at 10:45 AM. Reason: messed up on wording
Old 12-13-2009 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Geezer's Garage
Just to review and add some info to what I shared on my Geezer's Garage and kwikperf.com sites--I'm using a GTO pan on an '05 DOD 5.3 so after I killed several lifters, I installed an LS2 valley cover, installed a set of conventional lifters but left the DOD oil pump. My oil pressure gauge will show as high as 70 psi on a cold morning but runs between 55 and 60 at operating temperature. I have about 12,000 miles on the swap and it has made an awesome daily driver out the old 1987 BMW.
Thanks for the input. We can live with the pressures you mentioned. If I remember from your original thread, your engine was also an LH6 from an Envoy. I think we will take the chance and hope that it is a normal pump, or at least doesn't peg the guage, LOL. Out of curiosity, * Geezer * , was your engine also a 24X reluctor engine ? Ron
Old 12-13-2009 | 06:12 PM
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Yes, my 2005 Envoy is a 24X reluctor. I've been told this is a combination of a Gen IV engine with the older 24X signal they only produced for about a year and a half. I think it's an E40 ECM.
Old 12-13-2009 | 06:31 PM
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whoa. lol. those are for the cam bolts. the head bolts run about $98 for the arp for a complete set with washers and the GMs run 45 for the set (2 boxes).

Originally Posted by rojs234
OK.....sorry I didn't get back sooner, I was out all day yesterday. John, could you be more specific? Exactly what does a " set " for 7.89 consist of ?
One bolt, one head, both heads ? I like the idea of using regular torque values instead of the torque to yield angle system, but as I said, my friend is on a tight budget. However we would like to buy from sponsors if possible, because we both appreciate what you do. Could you give me a price, either here, or if you prefer, by PM for ARP head bolts for "05 Gen lV 5.3, and a pair of head gaskets? Ron
and on the oil pump. its not just pressure that it does, it is volume as well. pressure is the amount of surface area resisting flow, but volume is the amount of oil travelling past one place (or the entire system) in a given time. higher pressure is not always bad, but higher volume such as this of the DOD pump can be VERY hazardous to a normal engine that does not require it. so much so that we always recommend changing the pump to a normal one.
Old 12-13-2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by John@Scoggin
whoa. lol. those are for the cam bolts. the head bolts run about $98 for the arp for a complete set with washers
I knew that $8 head bolts sounded too good to be true!!!!!
Old 12-14-2009 | 12:13 AM
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well i got a 06 impala with a ls4 and would like to keep tha dod if possible but when looking to replace intakes dont think i can keep the same size vac lines.so would it just be a matter of tuning it out.
Old 12-14-2009 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
I knew that $8 head bolts sounded too good to be true!!!!!
I pretty much had that same thought After reading all the info provided, we may just go ahead and try the engine with just the pan and the non-DOD valley cover. I've looked the engine over some more and, like the one * Geezer * mentioned in his thread, I'm not sure this one was ever hooked up to run as a DOD engine. At least, by doing this, we can see what the oil pressure is, and IF the engine is a good candidate to spend the extra money on and do it right. Thanks again to everyone , Ron
Old 06-13-2010 | 06:37 PM
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Hey guys,

I'd like to revive this thread. Good info here. How about updates.

I have a L92 out of 07 escalade, definitely dod/afm motor. I'm gonna go with a dod delete kit and cam package, from a sponser on this site, wanna keep the vvt.

I'd like to run an aftermarket pan, and was wondering if I used a remote filter, into a oil cooler, into an accumulator and back to the motor, if that might reduce the volume and pressure to a point that the truck pan regulator might not be required?

This will be in a offroad car in the hottest part of Arizona for the most part, I'll keep the truck pan or change the oil pump if I have to

Thanks in advance for any opinions...
Old 06-14-2010 | 01:20 PM
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so does anyone have any opinions on, if routing the oil through a remote filter then through a cooler and inline accumulator and back to the engine, might reduce volume and pressure in the dod/afm oil system?



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