another 5.3 in an 85 c10
small wheel base jomomma. maybe you can point me in the rite direction, how do i go about choosing a camshaft for the 5.3? im afraid the stock 5.3 may lack power. i called comp cams and they recommended the xfi260(206/212 @.050, 513/.520 lift and a 111 centerline). i want torque & a lil lope & hp 2nd. torque moves heavy c10's (almost 4000). the vendor i bought my harness from recommends one of his grinds with springs and ecm reprogram at $400. his custom grind is stats are 224/231 @0.050, lift .578/.588 with a114 centerline. tell me what you think.
camshaft jomomma, you gave your opinion ofthe 2 camshafts, is there one you like?. what will i have to change? with the a cam swap, springs will be needed but will i have to replace the pushrods or stall? the only thing i want to mod is the cam posibly heads(edelbrock). its gonna be a daily driver. i want more than 10 mile per gallon. ive seen a few camshaft selection of 224/224 with lift at .550/550 with centerlines of 114.
i also wanted more than 10mpg, so i settled on a gm z06 cam. it 405 hp in an ls1 from the factory. so i figure with the heads that i have, 350-360hp should be achievable. you may want to consider a cam like that. the cam i picked out of the two you mentioned would probably not be the best for a dd. are your motor and trans stock? what ever cam you go with, id stick with at least a 114 lobe seperation fo a dd.
camshaft selection the motor and tranny are stock(5.3/4l60e). basically what your saying is the z06 cam and heads will bring you close to your power rating(360-380 hp)? what about the truck intake? if you change the truck intake you hae to swap the acc. i think thats too much $$$ for my junk yard motor. if thats the case i shouldve spent money on new 372. this is a budget build. giving my situation give me your best choice for a camshaft.
i have no problem with the truck intake. im going to run it on my truck. thats why i didnt spend a bunch of money on performance parts. what kind of power/torque are you trying to make?
power basically im trying to make close to 400 ft lbs and 400 hp. i want to spend smart. most bang for buck. and from the looks of it i shouldve started with a 6.0. my 5.3/4l60e only cost me $1200 with accessories.
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headers hello jomomma. some of us R waiting fo' pics. lol. im not trying to jack UR thread but i used JBA shorty headers and still needed to notch the frame on the driver side. i used the factory O2 sensor bungs til i get to the muffler shop. they may have a better solutions here R some pics.
alright, i got more pics. i will talk you through them......
here, i finished mounting the pcm and fuse box. i need a fusebox cover, so if anybody has on hook a brother up!
i mounted the data link under the cd player.
i installed the lokar cable dirven shifter linkage kit. ive got a few bugs to work out on it, but i think its going to work well.
heres a nice little tid bit! i made up my trans cooler lines with lines from napa that dont require a tubing bender! this was too easy. if you go to napa looking for it, its green in color.
and lastly, for you guys wanting to keep your old th350& 400 trannys. this piece gives your vss a signal to work with! without it your pcm would never get out of its idle tables.
im still trying to get some other wiring issues fixed, so im not on the road yet!
here, i finished mounting the pcm and fuse box. i need a fusebox cover, so if anybody has on hook a brother up!
i mounted the data link under the cd player.
i installed the lokar cable dirven shifter linkage kit. ive got a few bugs to work out on it, but i think its going to work well.
heres a nice little tid bit! i made up my trans cooler lines with lines from napa that dont require a tubing bender! this was too easy. if you go to napa looking for it, its green in color.
and lastly, for you guys wanting to keep your old th350& 400 trannys. this piece gives your vss a signal to work with! without it your pcm would never get out of its idle tables.
im still trying to get some other wiring issues fixed, so im not on the road yet!
Please excuse my ignorance, having never performed one of these swaps but is that the complete under-dash fuse block from whatever vehicle was the donor for your PCM harness? It looks like you're left using only a dozen or so fuses a and handful of relays.
I know it makes no difference functionally but purely for reasons of aesthetics, I wonder how difficult it is to remove the large factory fuse panel and replace it with something scaled down?
Good luck with the rest of your swap!
Tipsy
i am reusing the truck fusebox because its built into the wiring harness. for looks, i want to find the fusebox cover. if you use a car wiring harness, then there wont be a fusebox in the engine bay to deal with.