water temp. location
I used the threaded brass block plug on the drivers side, tapped for 1/2" sender. I assume you're referring to the passenger side plug. The C5 exhaust I'm using is pretty close to it. I'm getting high temp readings, compared to IR sensor and aftermarket gauge. Guessing it's due to the exhaust manifold. I'm going to use the passenger side head location with an aftermarket sender.
Someone (I can't remember who or when) posted here that they were using that location and getting erratic temperature readings. They thought they had a bad sender, gauge and wiring but when they changed to the head location opposite of where the factory unit was, everything stabilized. Both heads are the same casting / machine work and are thus interchangeable. This means the passenger head has the same port the driver's side has but there is a plug on the passenger's side where you can put your sender while the driver's side has the temp sender for the PCM (don't eliminate).
HTH
HTH
looked at it a little better a while ago. going to be close to a cylinder, so it will probaly run a lot warmer than what it really is seeing. going to put a manual guage in the head tomorrow. didnt want to drill out the head but guess i will. thanks.
or if its smaller than 1/2" you could pm this guy and have him turn down and thread your stock one..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...es-84mcss.html
will a mechanical gauge fit in the cyl head? the probe is rather long.
ive never tried it, seems like it would bottom out on the casting.
i use an electric autometer sensor in the back of the passenger head.
if my water temp is a lil warmer there than everywhere else, thats a good thing.
ive never tried it, seems like it would bottom out on the casting.
i use an electric autometer sensor in the back of the passenger head.
if my water temp is a lil warmer there than everywhere else, thats a good thing.
I'm, using the short sweep Autometer gauges in my 55/LQ9.
I drilled and tapped, [1/8npt], the top of the water pump, just under the alternator brkt. This should give me a fairly accurate reading of temp, just B4 it goes to the rad...
As for the block plugs... I'm having a machinist make them up w/ an external hex, and drill them for 1/4"NPT, to use as drain line connections.
I drilled and tapped, [1/8npt], the top of the water pump, just under the alternator brkt. This should give me a fairly accurate reading of temp, just B4 it goes to the rad...
As for the block plugs... I'm having a machinist make them up w/ an external hex, and drill them for 1/4"NPT, to use as drain line connections.
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There is another solution that might or might not interest you. A lot of engine swaps have to put two upper hoses together to get the right routing or shape to the hose by using a short 1 1/2" tube about 3"-4" long. I brazed a short piece of 3/8" pipe nipple into this and screwed my temperature sender into it. I don't have to mess with adaptors and it gives very accurate temp readings of the coolant just before it goes to the radiator. You can buy one already made up from Summit or Jegs.One of them has it with two fittings. If you wanted, you could route the small hose from the tube that lets steam escape from the heads to the other one. Just a thought, Ron
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