Monte LS....1

iTrader: (3)

Yeah you are at a disadvantage there with the vert, but mine are all hard top 2 doors so I have really considered possibly cutting the bottom out of the box formed by the frame rails and drop it down some and weld it back in and run a one piece. The setup in the car now is just a 350 with some bolts ons and a cam with a stock stalled 700r4 and I'd been using the stock carrier bearing and the last one I put in I welded on some reinforcement in the area it kept breaking. I ended up ripping the u joint out of the driveshaft (cap was still on the u joint lol) Been parked since then while I finished my monte carlo lsx swap...good luck with the build I'll be checking in to see how it's going.

Reckless64

Looking good!

shoobear

Looks great....

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Have you seen the billet carrier bearings?



I'm going to use one when I rebuild my car (2 door hard top).

turbo_ase

hey buddy xtremely nice build...like what you did with those back brakes...I have to do similar but I'm putting 4pistons brembo allaround....that bracket that you did is nasty....

doctahouse

Thanks for checking!!

doctahouse

Yes, I've seen those before. That's what I'll most likely end up running.

doctahouse

You must have deep pockets for those Brembo's!! In times like this, it would be so nice to have a waterjet to cut out all my metal, but all I have acess to is a torch and some grinders. Gotta make it work with what you got!!

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

I feel you on that one, if I can't make one or scavenge it from somewhere else it isn't likely to get used right now. But it also gives you a special bit of pride when the build is complete.

Mr Lavish

I think that to much cutting is been done for no reason, How are you coming with the placement of the motor?

doctahouse

Cutting of what? Oil pan, transmission hump?

I came up with the placement of the motor so when the car is fully lowered; on the crossmember, the oil pan will not be the lowest point of the car. The section out of the oil pan is the max I can go. The more I safely cut out of the oil pan, the lower the motor can sit. I will need to do a test fit of the hood to see if it will clear the intake.

Stormed_Norm

iTrader: (10)

I have the same steering box in my 62 Biscayne. I had to grind the tab off of it to keep it from hitting the radiator. Just make the box smooth it out. I was going to go with the cpp brakes also, went the cheaper route, and now regret it. I'm running 18's and 20's on mine. Power steering is nice to have. I also have the aluminum carrier bearing and will upgrade to a 1 peice down the road. I read a older article about doing it, and you don't really loose alot of frame strenght from what you cut out. But that could change depending on the size ( diameter) of the shaft.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Doc failed to mention he is trying to stay on a tight budget by using the factory truck pan which isn't the best pan for the situation.

The transmission tunnel has to be cut with a 4L80E. I can't remember if a 4L60E fits without modification or not, but I wouldn't bet much money on it. A 4L60E is big and the 4L80E is larger still! When people put 4L80E's in F-Body cars they have to move things about a bit and it's still tight. This car was built 30 - 40 years before the 4L80E transmission was placed in production when transmissions were much smaller and overdrive was nearly unheard of.

doctahouse

No turning back now. The wheel house turned out to have a bit more rust than I hoped. I'll need to make a new lip to attach the quarters.

doctahouse

The quarters that were used were partials. They also used galvanized on the lower portions. Way too hack. Suprisingly there was not alot of bondo used. The taillight area was much thicker.

Inside of drivers quarter



Passenger side taillight housing






Tailpan





Pinch weld area




Lower passenger wheel house, before:



After:

doctahouse

doctahouse

doctahouse

I cut the convertible rocker brace, way too much work to drill them all out. It will be just as strong once it's welded back together.

These floor braces will need replacements


Time to get ther lead out


Filled in all the holes. Ground them smooth after.


I got anxious for a test fit, only for more disapointment. These will need lots of work to make them fit perfect. I still have to get rid of the surface rust and por15 before any screwing and welding goes on.





I have about 1/2 gap between the quarter and the door jam. The top corner is pressed tight but all along it, it's 1/2" out.



I screwed up. I should have left the top part of the quarter in place where I had done my initial cut. The factory joint where the lead is different for convertibles.







This was copied from the original. Looks kinda goofy. Once the trunk extensions are in that should be a better guide.



The door can't close because of the quarter sticks out too far but the body lines aren't too far out to lunch.


Trunk pan done now. All plug welded up.

lq46liter

Why did you put in a flat piece in for the floor pan than using an original one?

doctahouse

So I can run a caprice gas tank between the frame rails.