1965 buick lesabre convertible 5.3L/4L60E
#1
1965 buick lesabre convertible 5.3L/4L60E
I am doing 5.3L swap into a 1965 buick lesabre. I have come across a few issues thus far. The centerlink runs right behind the front cross member and the pan will have to be cut to accommodate this. The truck manifolds will have to be axed in favor of the c5 manifolds that are longer and will pass the stock steering box. I am using stock 1998 camaro motor mounts and frame mounts to situate the motor. I am using plus nuts, round tubing, and 1/4 inch steel to fab up the trans cross member and I am going to have a 1 piece driveshaft made. Here are a few pics to start......
#5
yeah it will have a/c and the sump is in the rear on the factory engine and the swap engine. I was thinking of the gto pan, but the sump might hit the front cross member so i have some measuring and trial and error ahead of me.
#6
oil pan help?
the more i play with the engine location, the more i see that it;s almost impossible to get this motor to work with this steering. I'm thinking of getting a gto front sump pan and cutting it to fit, but it seems like a lot more money. what do you all think?
#7
The GTO set-up is a Cheap way to solve the problem......I've seen them on Ebay for around $200, but...make sure you get all the parts.....Pick-up, windage tray, etc
Ken
Ken
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#8
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Another option which may not be cheap since I've never priced it is dry sump. That means new pan, oil pump, lines and remote tank. Honestly that was the first idea I had when I saw the car. Another option may be the LS1 / 6 Corvette "batwing" pan but I don't know what the measurements are on it. That may still not afford you enough depth. Hmmm...
You said the original engine was rear sump?! How much room do you have to the firewall? Not trying to sound silly but can you move the engine back further? Is the trans fill tube in the way? If so you may try a Lokar flexible unit like I did. I used the "muscle Car Oil Pan Kit" from GMPP in my last build and it is supposed to be a Gen III version of the old school Gen I / II pan. I never measured or compared it directly against one before I installed it but it looked similar. It's only $150 with everything (gasket, pan, dipstick, windage tray, pickup tube and bolts). I can't tell from the picture's angle if that is even an option but the sump isn't as deep or as long as the truck pan I took off my engine.
You said the original engine was rear sump?! How much room do you have to the firewall? Not trying to sound silly but can you move the engine back further? Is the trans fill tube in the way? If so you may try a Lokar flexible unit like I did. I used the "muscle Car Oil Pan Kit" from GMPP in my last build and it is supposed to be a Gen III version of the old school Gen I / II pan. I never measured or compared it directly against one before I installed it but it looked similar. It's only $150 with everything (gasket, pan, dipstick, windage tray, pickup tube and bolts). I can't tell from the picture's angle if that is even an option but the sump isn't as deep or as long as the truck pan I took off my engine.
Last edited by gofastwclass; 01-14-2010 at 09:48 AM.
#11
Ha, I was going to clean up mine tomorrow to put up for sale starting @250 + shipping. I had to use the H3 pan. See how that works out.
#12