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Heater Hose U-Bend for bypassing Heater Core

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Old 01-24-2010, 12:19 AM
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Thanks but I was referring to this one:
Originally Posted by 6L.IROC-Z
This is what I use, a cleaner look than the loop.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...tegory_list=:0
Old 01-24-2010, 02:27 AM
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^^Someone post a pic of that one please..it keeps telling me that I have to login..
Old 01-24-2010, 02:20 PM
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Dorman Products part # 02253 in the help section at the parts store
http://milo.com/dorman-cap-bypass-asst-02253
Old 01-24-2010, 04:49 PM
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Thanks for the info.
Old 01-25-2010, 06:08 PM
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im running the same hose on my camaro. nice to see this old post alive
Old 04-16-2010, 12:20 PM
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Where are you guys buying this hose?
Old 04-16-2010, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Vegas
Where are you guys buying this hose?
I picked mine up from O'reillys here in Sun Prairie for $11.00 about 3 weeks ago...... They didnt have it on the shelf, had to transfer it in from the warehouse, took 2 days to get it
Old 04-17-2010, 10:03 AM
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Most AutoZone should have the Kelly-Springfield #S-4354 in stock. PepBoys can usually get the Dayco #87629 in about a day. The bigger Napas should have a Gates variant of the hose in stock, but I'm not sure what the cross reference # is for that brand.
Old 05-29-2011, 11:24 AM
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My local autozone has it under the number b87629 for dayco
Old 06-14-2011, 09:09 AM
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I just ordered the U-Bend from summit for $5.95 with a bunch of other parts and tried to install it on my 68 Camaro but i had to trim it to short otherwise it hit the A arm. Now the problem Im having is that since I've cut it to short (had to) the hose is now collapsed...... Anyone have a suggestion? Weld holes closed? Im not using the heater core nor a/c, Its a turbo street car Im building. Any help would be appreciated.
Old 06-14-2011, 11:09 AM
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Gates number is 18777.
Old 06-14-2011, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Build-it-Break-it
I just ordered the U-Bend from summit for $5.95 with a bunch of other parts and tried to install it on my 68 Camaro but i had to trim it to short otherwise it hit the A arm. Now the problem Im having is that since I've cut it to short (had to) the hose is now collapsed...... Anyone have a suggestion? Weld holes closed? Im not using the heater core nor a/c, Its a turbo street car Im building. Any help would be appreciated.
put a spring inside or outside of the hose to hold its shape.
Old 06-14-2011, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by overhere
put a spring inside or outside of the hose to hold its shape.
That wouldn't work inside of the hose unless it was a stainless spring (rusting would occur)and externally wouldn't work because of how short the radius is it wouldn't hold its shape or be hard to bend. Any other Ideas/suggestions? Thanks for your input.
Old 06-15-2011, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Build-it-Break-it
That wouldn't work inside of the hose unless it was a stainless spring (rusting would occur)and externally wouldn't work because of how short the radius is it wouldn't hold its shape or be hard to bend. Any other Ideas/suggestions? Thanks for your input.
A steel spring will work..think of how many iron block engines are out there with coolant running right against the metal...the coolant mix (glycol/water) provides corrosion protection. The spring trick is the best solution. Water pump intake hoses often come with a big (steel) spring installed to prevent collapse.
Old 06-15-2011, 02:13 AM
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Picked up one of these the other day and it made a huge difference. The heater hose valve that came with my vintage air kit didn't work well enough to stop all the water so the a/c was constantly fighting hot water. Now it's nothing but cold.
Old 06-15-2011, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by gjestico
A steel spring will work..think of how many iron block engines are out there with coolant running right against the metal...the coolant mix (glycol/water) provides corrosion protection. The spring trick is the best solution. Water pump intake hoses often come with a big (steel) spring installed to prevent collapse.
I'll try and take a picture tonight once Im off work. Once the hose is cut to clear the A arm and pushed on it collapses quit a bit. Also the hose is 1/2 - 5/8 so what spring would you suggest to put inside that would work? Thanks
Old 06-15-2011, 11:09 AM
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Try making the outside of the hose where it bends stiffer by coating it with a few coats of epoxy, like you use in fiberglass work or you could bend a piece of tubing on a tight radius and put it inside, if the spring doesn't work
Old 06-15-2011, 10:43 PM
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you could always make a U out of metal and flare one side out to make it 5/8 and have the other side 1/2 and just connect very short pieces of hose to it.
Old 06-15-2011, 10:58 PM
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I pulled my hose nipples out and tapped them with a 3/8 & 1/2 NPT tap and put pipe plugs in, you will see about a 50/50 response of yay or nay on doing this, I have about 2K miles on mine with it never running hot and today it was 105* outside here in Texas
Old 06-16-2011, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lizeec
I pulled my hose nipples out and tapped them with a 3/8 & 1/2 NPT tap and put pipe plugs in, you will see about a 50/50 response of yay or nay on doing this, I have about 2K miles on mine with it never running hot and today it was 105* outside here in Texas
I'll probably end up doing that^^ seems like a good idea. I'll try and find a spring or a tube first if not tapping it is. I'll be posting my build on here shortly. Its a 68 Camaro with a 5.3 truck motor,single front mount t78 1.15 a/r ball bearing turbo and v mounted radiator. My first real domestic build. I use to drag race a 650hp import (Acura Integra) but sold it and woke up and bought my dream car.


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