c6matt

iTrader: (1)

They look ok.. but not a fan of the chrome ones...

bmf5150

Well I ordered the foose legends,18!any new updates on your car???

John H

Beautiful car with a big update in tech! Nice swap

c6matt

iTrader: (1)

been really busy.. but I am now trying to decide how much to lower the front with the new wheels.. I am going to do that and the front brake upgrade all at once.. then the built 4l65/billet converter goes in and the boost is going up to 9 psi or so.. then I'm ready for powertour.

Thanks

I have 3" tire to arch gap in the front, 2.75 in the rear 1 coil looks like it will lower the front 1.1" now the question..2 coils or 1...

ishmael

I love the legends. For the drop, if you don't already have shocks, why not go with some qa1 coil overs? You can adjust exactly where you want the ride height and get some killer shocks. Cutting one coil isn't going to screw up your ride feel but cutting two will be start to be noticable. Just a thought. Or if you are dropping front and read you could get hotchkis front and rear springs. They put things about perfect for my taste but the 600lb springs might be a bit stiff if you have an aluminum engine.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Hello I wanted to lower my car as well in the front it is a 66 GTO convertible when I had the old iron 389 in there I rebuilt the front end using Moog springs for a 66 Chevelle big block with a/c and it sat just a smidgen high for me, but after I swapped in a LS2 & T56 it say like yours with about a 3.5" gap from fender to tire, I removed the springs and again installed some new Moog springs for a 66 chevelle but for a 6 cylinder and no a/c it only helped about a 1/2 inch I drove it like that for a month and it only settled about a 1/2 inch. I still didn't like it and researched cutting a coil and you get people saying if you cut a coil off it will lower it anywhere from 1" to 6"and that your ride and handling will be ok all the way to you will crash and burn from messing with the spring, ( gotta love the interwebz) I was going to start by cutting a half coil and put it together and try it out but that is a lot of work to do over again if it still doesn't sit right even though I should have zippers on my set up instead of nuts and bolts, as many times as I have had the front end apart, I decided on cutting 1 complete coil and crossing my fingers, well I ended up with a 1.5/8 drop and after about a month of driving a final lowering of about 1.75" from cutting 1 complete coil, I'm okay with the final result although if I could do it over I probably would only cut 3/4 of a coil off for what I feel would be the best looking stance on my car. If you have the patience maybe start with a half coil and see how it looks, you can always cut off more off the coil spring but you can't cut off less once it's been cut, good luck

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Hello I have been following you LS1 brake swap and I have started to do the same on my 66 GTO, I swapped the rear brakes on and I swapped the LH & RH side backing plates and calipers that way the caliper sits toward the rear of the car and that way I can have the parking brake levers pull towards the front of the car as the original parking brake cabes do, the questions I have is what did you use for parking brake cables and what did you use for the master cylinder and proportioning valve and brake booster if you have contacts or part numbers that would be greatly appreciated, and are you happy with your set up or would you have done anything different on your brakes if you did it over? Thanks in advance for your help.

c6matt

iTrader: (1)

Haven't driven the car with the new brakes yet so i can't say how well I like them, I am running the same master/booster that came with my right stuff disk brake kit, I gutted the perp valve and am just using it as a distrabtion block and put a wilwood adjustable perp valve in the rear line. For the parking brake cables I am modifying the 4th gen cables to work, I need to shorten them up quite a bit.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Ok Thanks that was my plan "B" as well on the proportioning valve and I think for plan "A" I am going to try a 1969 Corvette disc/disc master cylinder and possibly even use the proportioning valve from the vette as well, I copied your brackets for the parking brake cables by using some 1" angle iron and a a lot of grinding and I just used longer bolts and bolted the backing plate down and then mounted the brackets and used another nut to hold the bracket to the bolt. I then used the 2002 camaro parking brake cables correct eyelet and put it to the lever on the parking brake and then installed the spring which I cut down to size and then cut the metal cable out of the original park brake cable housing and inserted the 2002 camaro cable through the original housing and cut it to the proper length and used some aluminum barrel stops on the end of the cable and crimped them with a crimping tool which looks like a pair of bolt cutters. I hooked up everything and it looks like it will work ok after I adjust the parking brake shoe inside the rotor.

c6matt

iTrader: (1)

where did you get the barrel stops?

bmf5150

Hey matt,question about when you set up your trans shifter lever to your 4l60 e ?when I set up my B&m shifter as a four speed,it lines up in all gears except low 1st,it's below what the trans mechanism will go!but if I set up the shifter as a 3 speed shifter it aligns perfectly!did u run into anything like this??

[CJ]

Very nice camaro! Love the color combo!

c6matt

iTrader: (1)

The lokar kit I used is adjustable for the length between the pivot and the shift shaft, so I could dial in the exact length of travel i needed to have it align (pretty well anyway)

c6matt

iTrader: (1)

thanks, I hated the color when I bought it, now I wouldn't change it for anything..

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I bought them at Lowe's hardware store they are in the section where they sell chain and cables, they come in a pack of 2 barrel stops and 2 double barrel stops the size was for 1/8" cable and the pack was like $1.00 I used a set of large crimpers I had, it has multiple sizes on the crimping jaws. I think electric workers use these large crimpers to crimp on large lugs on electrical power cables.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I bought them at Lowe's hardware store they are in the section where they sell chain and cables, they come in a pack of 2 barrel stops and 2 double barrel stops the size was for 1/8" cable and the pack was like $1.00 I used a set of large crimpers I had, it has multiple sizes on the crimping jaws. I think electric workers use these large crimpers to crimp on large lugs on electrical power cables. The F-Body cables are the same size as the old cables the only differences the F-Body cables are plastic coated, I removed a 1/4" of the plastic coating before I crimped on the barrel ends.

c6matt

iTrader: (1)

lol, one of those times the tool will be way more than the cost of parts....

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

You might be able to make some type of clamping jaw and crimp it in a regular table vise, after looking at your angle iron brackets for the cables I'm pretty sure you can make it work or just take the cable and barrels to a electrician I'm pretty sure they would have the crimper, as the barrels are aluminum they squeeze onto the cable and grip very tight, if you look at the factory crimped barrels on the original cables they appear to be just barely crimped on but I guess due to the steel cable and aluminum barrels it seems to hold well.

bmf5150

Love the color of your car matt,when I was in high school my cousin had the exact same color car and vinyl top as you!loved that car,had a chance to buy it at the time,but didn't have the money back then!!

bmf5150

For the c5 brake mod,do u need two left calipers for the front??