2001 porsche 996 ls1 conversion
First, the LS2/3/Holden ones you have are different lengths as you have,(and I have a set). The LS1 sets are symetrical. Also, there are several rubber mounts that area available that are much smaller. I have a hot rod set that I can sell for $30 - I'll get pics, but they stand up maybe 2" total.
I'll find the link for the symmetrical pedestals.
Here is the shortest mounts you can get:
http://www.streetrodgarage.com/motor...ushionset.aspx
Last edited by Bob H; Feb 26, 2010 at 11:06 AM.
something like yours that supports both the engine and trans together.and why does it seem like you have two adapter plates between the engine and trans ?
bob, thanks for the info , lots of cool stuff
The adapter plate is steel, and the thick aluminum plate is pretty much just a spacer. The LSx flex plate sits about 7/8" from the block. The flex plate is required to accomodate the starter. The bellhousing on that Audi 6 speed is too small to house the flex plate.
Andy1
andy , you got me thinking about a V3.0 cradle now
, but it has to go through the suspension cross member inorder to tie in with the tranny ( unless i raise the front to back bar - the one that the motor sits on - a few inches ) . either way it has to wait till i get back to the garage again 
are using the bnc adapter on your conversion ( since you used the stock flexplate and what i assume would be a adapter/spaced out flywheel)?
kitcarchassis makes a similar adapter plate to yours for the 01e-016, but the 0b4 (in pic) will need a custom one off plate. thanks, john
Last edited by r8dream; Feb 28, 2010 at 03:26 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

here is how the stuff looks on the car
( going to be a roller soon ! ): 
i also messed around with the cradle some more , now the "U" part is finally done :

and this is where the original porsche mount will bolt up to the new cradle :

next up will probably be the parallel tubes that the engine will sit on , i have to cut and weld these on next . those should go from the "U" part to the plate i have on the crossmember , i won't make any "pedestals" yet untill i get the headers and trans in.
another option that i'm really contemplating ( well thinking of as a backup plan) if the trans measurements i got were not correct and the trans ended up pushing the engine further towards the back of the car ( from pics i saw the tranny sits on to and past the cross member towards the back of the car- but the measurements i got place it just ahead of the crossmemebr) is a new cradle like andy has.
the parallel tubes under the engine would just extend past the crossmember ( either above it or through it) all the way to where the original trans mount bolts and attatch there . then the tranny can be slid forward a few inches ( can do that cause there is a drive shaft i can shorten infont of the trans) and mount it to the cradle. that way i have a complete suubframe for the engine and trans ,,,, but that's just me thinking way to far ahead

i also did not get the exhaust yet , waiting on the owner to call me to get it

any how , next up on the list :
- use regular bolts for now to finish bolting up the suspension
- slap the wheels on there to make it a roller ! ( end of stage 1
)- weld up the two bars underneath to finish the cradle
- fab up a bar that holds the mock engine inplace teporarily so i can get rid of the bungee cords
- install the stock exhaust ( if i get it today )
Last edited by 1dirtyZ; Mar 1, 2010 at 02:55 AM.
kitcarchassis makes a similar adapter plate to yours for the 01e-016, but the 0b4 (in pic) will need a custom one off plate. thanks, john
I modified a motorcycle jack and kept the profile very low such that I don't have to raise the car very high to get the assembly to roll under. Actually a transmission jack is a pretty decent place to start as well, as long as you add some outriggers to stabilize it.
Do you have any more photos of your transaxle? What applications used the
0b4?
Andys
here are the pics of 0b4 , its special because of the output position of the halfshafts compared to normal transaxles or 01e's which my 6 speed s8 came with from the factory, 0b4 can take at least 450 ft/lbs torque as abt-sportsline regularly tunes 3.0tdi to this level. it is only in the after '08 s5, s4, a5 3.0tdi and a4 3.0tdi, and only 4wd. all are 3.89 final drive. looks like the difficulty of mating to the lsx is, the corner of ls block has to be cut off because starter bolts to 0b4 on its own and ls block is too wide for front diff casing on the 0b4. have a look at the pic of the engine block 0b4 bolts to. last pic i took today of 0b4 in the s5. am still thinking about this. john
Last edited by r8dream; Mar 22, 2010 at 04:43 PM.
so there are two options: first, run it from the original mounts to under the engine and stop just before the crossmember ( then maybe attatch it to the block on the bellhousing surface with a plate ).
second option is redo the "u" part where is it soilidly mounted to where the original porsche mounts are ( remove those and replace with a plate ) and then attach the other end to the crossmember plate , and use original F-body motor mounts.
either way is easy , and i might just end up doing them both and choosing later down the road which one to pick

aside form that , i'm done with stage 1 ! the car is a roller now !
i just need to get the correct bolts for the control arms ( just put temporary ones now ) later .
after i put the thing on the ground i couldn't help but check how the crossmember i made would look from behind the car , so i slapped on the bumper ad what do you know ! it doesn't even show when looking at it from about 1 foot above ground! ( you could see it through the exhaust cutout in the bumper)

and incase you are wondering how much space is there to run the stock exhaust , well here it is :

this is how much space i have with the intake on , notice how unlike on 993 models ( the older body style ) i don't have to flip the intake and use the funky looking elbow on the throttle body . but due to how slanted the engine cover is , i can't run a carb style intake and elbow cause it sticks up too high ( unless i use a sheetmetal elbow that is super low- and before you say edelbrock,,,, i checked - the stang has a GMPP carb intake and edelbrock ultra low elbow- sits about 2 inches too high ) :



as you can see , its pretty tight when it comes to belt clearance , but i can't make a %100 judgement untill i have a tranny in there , but worst case scenario is i have to notch the brace and reinforce it ( which i really don't want to do ).


and why is it every time i look at this picture:

, i can't help but see this in my head :


andy , thanks for the pics.... i gives me some ideas for later on

R8dream , how is that tranny shifted? can't find it in the pictures you posted.
so i guess from the looks of it i can't make any real progress in the engine compartment side untill i get a trans in there ( or do some measuring myself on another car ), other than that , i can just build the other cradle and tack weld suff .
so , next up :
- finish the cradle
- build the damn brace i've been talking about forever to hold the engine

- strat looking into the fuel and return lines.
- take the center console out as well as the pedal assembly
- order more stuff
Andy1
My only question is economics - if you bought the chassis for $10k, take another $10-15k for the engine swap, then maybe do another $5k or so for the interior (looked like it is unusable) you will be into the car for $30k and a running 996 turbo can be bought for $35k private party or closer to $30k wholesale. The 996 turbo motor is also easily pushed to 700-800hp on stock internals and bolt on (fuel, turbo,) mods.
Here is a noob question for you. I have read thrue it all and just realised that the 911 have the transmission in front of the engine...
Is it possible to use an Audi S4 transmission? or is it going to be 6sp reverse, 1sp forward.


