1970 Camaro RS: Operation Budget LSx
03-26-2010, 05:05 PM
#41
swap build Looks good man. I'm doing a carb'd LY6 6.0L into my 73 RS/LT. I've got an entire build thread going on the 2nd Gen site 
, but like you, I'll probably wait until I start on the LS engine before starting a thread in here. Hopefully that will be within three or four months. Keep up the good work.
, but like you, I'll probably wait until I start on the LS engine before starting a thread in here. Hopefully that will be within three or four months. Keep up the good work.Thanks,
Jim
03-26-2010, 08:55 PM
#44
The stock truck waterpump and I will try to use a SBC/BBC one wire aftermarket alternator that I was previously running. I got the correct pulley for it and I will make an adaptor to mount the BBC bracket I have and align it correctly. I will be using a manual steering box, so no PS pump.
05-14-2010, 04:28 AM
#46
I know this is a big jump forward in my install, but between a new baby, my wife almost dying and having to work a ton to make up for lost money...I didn't document anything I've done lately.
I installed the heads on the ARP head studs, installed the valvetrain, and got stuck at installing the harmonic balancer. I didn't have a tool to install it, and none of my local buddies had one. The price to buy one for just a one time use was NOT to my liking. So, I made my own very very simple tool. Cost me $8.45 in materials and $8.99 for a hacksaw (needed one anyway).
Here's the recipe:
1 M16 threaded rod with 2mm thread pitch. Just take your old crank bolt with you.
2" stack of washers
1 large diameter thick fender washer (the washer that comes with the ARP bolt is perfect of course)
1 nut
1 deep socket (mine was 24mm)
This is the first try...it was a bit too short.
Here's the second one I made, a few inches longer. Note the ARP washer on it.
Stack the washers on the ARP washer, toss on the nut and crank away!
Viola! Crankshaft harmonic balancer is installed!
I installed the heads on the ARP head studs, installed the valvetrain, and got stuck at installing the harmonic balancer. I didn't have a tool to install it, and none of my local buddies had one. The price to buy one for just a one time use was NOT to my liking. So, I made my own very very simple tool. Cost me $8.45 in materials and $8.99 for a hacksaw (needed one anyway).
Here's the recipe:
1 M16 threaded rod with 2mm thread pitch. Just take your old crank bolt with you.
2" stack of washers
1 large diameter thick fender washer (the washer that comes with the ARP bolt is perfect of course)
1 nut
1 deep socket (mine was 24mm)
This is the first try...it was a bit too short.
Here's the second one I made, a few inches longer. Note the ARP washer on it.
Stack the washers on the ARP washer, toss on the nut and crank away!
Viola! Crankshaft harmonic balancer is installed!
05-14-2010, 08:47 AM
#47
Good to see you're back at it. Hope the wife and new baby are doing well. I had planned to make an install tool using the same stuff as you, but you've got to tell me where you picked up your materials so cheap. I check Fastenal and there just the 16mmX2.0 threaded rod alone is close to $13.00. That's still fairly cheap, but if I can find the threaded rod, 16mm nut and washers all for less than $9.00, that would be even better yet. Keep up the good work.
05-14-2010, 11:04 PM
#48
Good to see you're back at it. Hope the wife and new baby are doing well. I had planned to make an install tool using the same stuff as you, but you've got to tell me where you picked up your materials so cheap. I check Fastenal and there just the 16mmX2.0 threaded rod alone is close to $13.00. That's still fairly cheap, but if I can find the threaded rod, 16mm nut and washers all for less than $9.00, that would be even better yet. Keep up the good work.
I got my materials at a local place called Tacoma Screw. The rod was $8.00 and the nuts and washers was the extra .45. No sales tax on them for some reason. Probably should have been another .70 cents.
05-14-2010, 11:18 PM
#49
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Nice build man, I've been on the look out for an early model 2nd gen for years. It's hard to find one that hasn't been rotted through down here. Your engine is coming out sweet.
05-24-2010, 01:49 AM
#52
Intake manifold and water pump installed today.
Also fit checked the hughes flex plate designed for use with th350/400/700r4 transmissions. It fit up perfectly with the 700r4 in my car. No need to elongate the holes on this one!
Things left to do:
1. Adjust valves
2. Install motor mounts/adaptors
3. Fabricate bracket for SBC style 1 wire alt.
4. Remove power steering box, install manual steering box
5. R&R heater core
6. Install motor
7. Electrical, cooling, etc
8. Vroom.
Also fit checked the hughes flex plate designed for use with th350/400/700r4 transmissions. It fit up perfectly with the 700r4 in my car. No need to elongate the holes on this one!
Things left to do:
1. Adjust valves
2. Install motor mounts/adaptors
3. Fabricate bracket for SBC style 1 wire alt.
4. Remove power steering box, install manual steering box
5. R&R heater core
6. Install motor
7. Electrical, cooling, etc
8. Vroom.
...
05-26-2010, 05:36 AM
#54
Intake manifold and water pump installed.
Went the cheap route and kept the stock top cover and reused the wiring grommet. I just filled the hole for the wire with ultra black, put a nice bead of more ultra black on the sealing surface and squeezed it down. I should work that way for a while. Hardly noticeable, I think.
Here's the fit check with the Hughes flexplate. Holes line up perfectly with the ATI torque converter for my 700r4.
PROCESS CHECK!
I found the directions for the Edelbrock motor mount adaptor plates to be ambiguous. I THINK this is the direction they are supposed to be installed.
And with the old energy suspension mounts attached.
One of the last big projects: I need to create a bracket to mount my old alternator. I have already added the pulley I need and have a general idea of where it will go.
I think I will use one hole common to the cylinder head, run a tie-rod to another hole...not sure about a third mount. Maybe a plate the takes up three holes on the head and attaches to at least two points on the alternator.
And one thing that needs to be done in the engine bay before the motor goes in, aside from a general cleaning and re-paint. This old power steering box has got to go. I have a manual box I'm swapping in since I want to run only a water pump and alternator.
Still need to adjust the valves...maybe tomorrow.
Went the cheap route and kept the stock top cover and reused the wiring grommet. I just filled the hole for the wire with ultra black, put a nice bead of more ultra black on the sealing surface and squeezed it down. I should work that way for a while. Hardly noticeable, I think.
Here's the fit check with the Hughes flexplate. Holes line up perfectly with the ATI torque converter for my 700r4.
PROCESS CHECK!
I found the directions for the Edelbrock motor mount adaptor plates to be ambiguous. I THINK this is the direction they are supposed to be installed.
And with the old energy suspension mounts attached.
One of the last big projects: I need to create a bracket to mount my old alternator. I have already added the pulley I need and have a general idea of where it will go.
I think I will use one hole common to the cylinder head, run a tie-rod to another hole...not sure about a third mount. Maybe a plate the takes up three holes on the head and attaches to at least two points on the alternator.
And one thing that needs to be done in the engine bay before the motor goes in, aside from a general cleaning and re-paint. This old power steering box has got to go. I have a manual box I'm swapping in since I want to run only a water pump and alternator.
Still need to adjust the valves...maybe tomorrow.
06-15-2010, 04:01 AM
#56
New update. Not very glorious stuff, but interesting none-the-less.
When I was a student in good weather California, my windows started fogging when I tried to de-fog them. The air smelled sweet and dirty. Heater core was leaking! I did what anyone else going to school in a good climate would do. I bypassed the heater core by cutting the heater hose and looping it back into the water pump. Now, years later, is the time to replace this $38 piece of hardware.
It sucked.
This is what it looked like after I yanked the fan/cover assembly, loosened the box inside the passenger footwell and pried the hell to get the old heater core out.
Lots of beautiful rust.
This has got to be a 30+ year old heater core. I think I see Jesus.
Here's the heater cover/fan assembly. Dirty, moldy and a bit of rust.
This foam-rubber gasket is VERY hard to find. Don't lose it. Here it is installed on my new heater core.
Cleaned up the heater box/fan assembly.
Painted and cleaned the inner heater box.
Installing the new heater core is difficult. Especially when I'm trying to take a picture. Can you tell I'm left handed? I seem to be using my left hand in all of my shots.
And installed with the retaining clip in place. Note that the metal the retaining clip is on is a bit bent. I had to fix that later.
Not too happy with the seal job, might go back and re-seal the heater box to the firewall. The excess sealant will be scrapped off and cleaned when I prep the engine bay for paint.
After removing my old power steering box, I test fit and function tested my new manual steering box. Surprisingly easy to turn the steering wheel now!
Another angle. All bolts still loose and no nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box.
Another piece for the scrap pile!
Last thing I have to do before I install the LQ4 is to clean and paint the engine compartment. Getting really close now!
When I was a student in good weather California, my windows started fogging when I tried to de-fog them. The air smelled sweet and dirty. Heater core was leaking! I did what anyone else going to school in a good climate would do. I bypassed the heater core by cutting the heater hose and looping it back into the water pump. Now, years later, is the time to replace this $38 piece of hardware.
It sucked.
This is what it looked like after I yanked the fan/cover assembly, loosened the box inside the passenger footwell and pried the hell to get the old heater core out.
Lots of beautiful rust.
This has got to be a 30+ year old heater core. I think I see Jesus.
Here's the heater cover/fan assembly. Dirty, moldy and a bit of rust.
This foam-rubber gasket is VERY hard to find. Don't lose it. Here it is installed on my new heater core.
Cleaned up the heater box/fan assembly.
Painted and cleaned the inner heater box.
Installing the new heater core is difficult. Especially when I'm trying to take a picture. Can you tell I'm left handed? I seem to be using my left hand in all of my shots.
And installed with the retaining clip in place. Note that the metal the retaining clip is on is a bit bent. I had to fix that later.
Not too happy with the seal job, might go back and re-seal the heater box to the firewall. The excess sealant will be scrapped off and cleaned when I prep the engine bay for paint.
After removing my old power steering box, I test fit and function tested my new manual steering box. Surprisingly easy to turn the steering wheel now!
Another angle. All bolts still loose and no nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box.
Another piece for the scrap pile!
Last thing I have to do before I install the LQ4 is to clean and paint the engine compartment. Getting really close now!
06-15-2010, 08:20 AM
#57
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Looks great man!Keep us updated on your progress!...im putting a carbed LS3in my 78 nova.im trying to figure out a way to use my old alternator also.i swapped my power steering box out for a manual one a few weeks back when my car was still together.i liked it much better also.
06-15-2010, 08:58 PM
#58
Looks great man!Keep us updated on your progress!...im putting a carbed LS3in my 78 nova.im trying to figure out a way to use my old alternator also.i swapped my power steering box out for a manual one a few weeks back when my car was still together.i liked it much better also.
06-17-2010, 03:40 PM
#60
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Nathan, I have a couple of questions for you.
I am getting things together right now to put a 1999 6.0L in my 70 camaro, it is going to be a track only drag car so I am going to be running almost the exact setup as you are running. Only things I will be running is the carb,Th-350 trans, water pump and alternator.
First, where did you find the correct pully for the alternator??
Second, since my 6.0L has the built on crank spacer do you think the Hugh's flexplate (flat type) you used is the same one that I would need?
Third, is the Hugh's flexplate a SFI version??
Keep up the great work with all the pics, it really helps seeing someone else do this and show all the ways to get it done.
One other thing, what pan are you using?
I am getting things together right now to put a 1999 6.0L in my 70 camaro, it is going to be a track only drag car so I am going to be running almost the exact setup as you are running. Only things I will be running is the carb,Th-350 trans, water pump and alternator.
First, where did you find the correct pully for the alternator??
Second, since my 6.0L has the built on crank spacer do you think the Hugh's flexplate (flat type) you used is the same one that I would need?
Third, is the Hugh's flexplate a SFI version??
Keep up the great work with all the pics, it really helps seeing someone else do this and show all the ways to get it done.
One other thing, what pan are you using?