71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

why arent you guys running the factory alternator? they crank out a lot of amps, bolt right in, and can be bought for $50

victor3ranger

To tell you the truth the only reason I was thinking about running a older style alt is because my 6.0L didn't come with a factory alt. I also haven't looked at one of the newer type ones so I didn't know if they would use the same type of wiring setup.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

From summit. I mic'd the snout on my alternator and grabbed the right size. The stock style steel pulley was $8 if I remember correctly.

Yes, as the flexplate will fix the bolt spacing issue, nut the crank snout to torque converter issue. Hughes makes a seperate spacer if you need it.

Yes.

The hot-rod kit from GM. It's the hummer LH8 pan, it will still hang below the cross member a bit, but should be fine for what I'm doing. The CTS-V would probably have been better. We will see which one I should have gone with in a few weeks.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Because the alternator I have is a good power-master unit. My wiring setup is already set for a one wire only alternator. And for about $30 I can make my own custom setup that I will be much more proud of.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

LSx style alternators need an exciter wire to regulate voltage, they are not true one wire alternators.

MillsMotorvation

You give great detail info! You said you had to adjust the valves, the stock valves dont need to be adjusted do they? Also, what is the torque spec's on rocker arms? Great work, im doing a 1981TTA, with a Turbo LQ4, it's all new to me. Ive been doing Grandnationals, this LS stuff is new to me.

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

it uses the same wiring setup. you will need an adapter that will plug into the lsx alternator, hook up your sense and field wire to it, and you are good to go.

the only thing you need is the $20 pigtail.

I wouldnt personally use a 1 wire alternator because I dont know how it would sense the load going through the system.

victor3ranger

I was thinking about running the truck pan since this car is going to be a track only setup but if for some reason I end up doing a wheel stand and slam the front down I don't want the pan to scatter across the track.
I picked up a F-body pan about two years ago in hopes of doing a LSx build so I think I am going to go that route with mine.

Where did you say you found the belt pulley for the alternator??

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I said adjusting the valves as a generic term. You still have to torque them down when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. In a sense, that is "adjusting" them.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

How 1 wire alternators work: The main difference between a one wire and an OEM is the method used to energize or turn on the alternator. An alternator using the OEM style is turned on with the ignition switch. The one wire design is energized with a special sensing cicuit built into the internal voltage regulator. This circuit senses the rotation of the alternators rotor. The rotor must turn at sufficient speed to trip the circuit, starting the charging process. This turn-on speed is affected by several things and is typically higher with certain high amperage alternators. Once this circuit is tripped, the alternator will charge at all speeds, even very low ones, until the alternators rotor comes to a complete stop. At that point, the circuit will shut off and wait for the process to be repeated. What this means for the consumer is that in some applications the engine must be revved to 1200 or 1400 RPMs to turn the one wire alternator on. If the wiring harness is available and this characteristic is annoying, then Powermaster alternators can be plugged in like the stock unit and operated with the ignition switch.

Since I already have the alternator and a bracket it didn't make sense to change to an OEM type. It is slightly cheaper and infinitely more fun to adapt my old stuff.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...l/?Ns=Rank|Asc

All you need to do is pick the correct size and you're good to go.

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Here's one heck of an update. Not exactly done with this project yet, but the mock-up picture was too good not to share.

Problem: No alternator on my LSx motor.

Have: Alternator from my BBC and the bracket that went with it.

Solution: Adapt my junk to run with the truck pulley, waterpump and tensioner.

Here's a reference picture of the head


Basic location and spacing I had in mind.




After making some measurements (including the difference in the depth of my alternator and the waterpump pulley), I found I needed a 1-1/4" plate and I would have to pick-up a hole on the cylinder head with the spacer plate.


Got this big hunk-o-aluminum from Midwest Steel Supply. It's 1-1/4" thick, 6"x8" T6 aluminum and with shipping was surprisingly cheap. I could have ordered a smaller size, but I wanted extra just in case.


Sorry if these pictures are excessive, but I like them. I layed out the pattern using my existing bracket, made some reference marks for the holes (do not drill these) and marked the inside area where I want the other cylinder head hole to end up.










I managed to find a bandsaw somewhere and cut out the plate. You can hacksaw or jigsaw this, but I wouldn't recommend it.


After clamping up the BBC bracket to the spacer plate to use as a drill guide...


...I used a 'gunbarrel' drill bit and backdrilled the holes.


After measuring out and drilling the third hole, I mocked the spacer and bracket up to the head.




Used some random fasteners and a few drill bits and mocked everything up. I had a long steel spacer tube from another project that I cut down to 1-1/4" to match the spacer and used it on the tie-rod common-to the cylinder head.






Looks like everything lines up perfectly!


Now I need to counter-bore the backside of the outermost hole so I can install that bolt. It interferes with the cylinder head. Then I will de-chrome everything chrome and probably paint the alternator, bracket and spacer an aluminum color so it all looks uniform. And, I need to find a belt...

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

very nice work

Chiefs75

Any new updates on the build, its looking good!

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Been fighting a terrible summer cold that's knocked me on my *** for the last week! I hope to push the car out tomorrow and clean and paint the engine compartment, then it's time to drop in the motor.

Also, phase II of the power program for this build is coming in the mail.....

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

Here's what I did today to try to sweat out this terrible summer cold I have. I painted the engine bay in the Camaro. I didn't bother to take anything apart, all I did was degrease everything and I was very selective with the rattle can. Still have this summer cold though.

Also, Phase Two of my power program is coming in the mail. You'll never guess what I bartered to get it.

Here are a couple of before pictures:







And now a few after. Remember, this is a toy/race car, not something you'll EVER find at Pebble Beach.







I would say the next step is to actually install the engine!

Camaro Ken

Great job man i know first hand lots of labor goes into these swaps. i have a 71 with an ls6 check it out if u like. youtube.com "kendricpowell"

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I found this old video from 3 years ago and thought I'd share it. Still down with bronchitis, so no work on the Camaro.


454, 304 degree adv duration cam, 177 mini blower, open headers.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoid=48253963

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

I've got a secret. I'm going to be making more power than I said I would.







I worked this weekend, so I didn't have much time to spend on the Camaro. I did get the engine off the stand and onto the engine hoist. While I was trying to install the flexplate I found that the ARP bolts recommended by Summit we standard fine thread instead of M11x1.5. Correct bolts are on the way!

1972nova

iTrader: (13)

how much you gonna spray