1970 Camaro RS: Operation Budget LSx
#122
There was a question about using the stock hood with this intake and carb. I will have to say, not possible unless you don't run and aircleaner or a choke horn. And even then, it might be a little close.
I'm running a K&N drop base bottom, a K&N 3" filter, and an AFCO dome top lid. Plus, I have a .5" nitrous plate. This will push me to a 4" or taller cowl hood. Someone running no nitrous plate or spacer, plus a flat top, drop base filter will need a 2" cowl at least. Or get really creative.
The blue line represents the top of the aircleaner (not the domed part, just the lip edge. My dome top really pushes me to need a bigger cowl) The red line is the firewall cowl which is the same height, roughly, as the hood.
I'm running a K&N drop base bottom, a K&N 3" filter, and an AFCO dome top lid. Plus, I have a .5" nitrous plate. This will push me to a 4" or taller cowl hood. Someone running no nitrous plate or spacer, plus a flat top, drop base filter will need a 2" cowl at least. Or get really creative.
The blue line represents the top of the aircleaner (not the domed part, just the lip edge. My dome top really pushes me to need a bigger cowl) The red line is the firewall cowl which is the same height, roughly, as the hood.
#123
Just a minor update. Did a little clean up work and painted the alternator bracket, the alternator (damn, there's a ton of little holes to mask off...and yes, I know I could have just taken it apart), and painted the airfilter lid. All of them got a couple of coats of aluminum pigmented paint. I think it turned out really nice.
Did I ever mention that I hate chrome or most anything that shines? Except for stainless.
I am also fully aware of how much crap I have piled on the cowl, the fenders, my tool box, my work bench....
Did I ever mention that I hate chrome or most anything that shines? Except for stainless.
I am also fully aware of how much crap I have piled on the cowl, the fenders, my tool box, my work bench....
#125
Yeah, it's a rattle can and it was really hard to keep this stuff from running, but I like the outcome. It was Dupli Color Engine Enamel with Ceramic, Cast Aluminum color.
#126
You know how sometimes, if you stare at a problem long enough a simple solution will jump out at you? Well, I solved my heater hose delema and fixed a routing problem with my fuel system at the same time. Bad news is I need more parts now. A fuel log to run a single hose from my FPR to the carb, and fittings to run a hose to the nitrous selenoid. I was going to build a shield, but this seems to be working.
All I had to do was slightly relocate and angle my fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to allow one of the heater hose to take it's natural path to the waterpump. This also allowed me to no longer have one of the heater hoses in contact with the return line. As you can see, there's now at least 1" between any hose, structure or other hoses.
I drilled two holes big enough for a zip tie in the inner fender and used an old wire loom clamp as a spacer.
And routed the heater hose through the stock clamp on the fender.
All I had to do was slightly relocate and angle my fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to allow one of the heater hose to take it's natural path to the waterpump. This also allowed me to no longer have one of the heater hoses in contact with the return line. As you can see, there's now at least 1" between any hose, structure or other hoses.
I drilled two holes big enough for a zip tie in the inner fender and used an old wire loom clamp as a spacer.
And routed the heater hose through the stock clamp on the fender.
#127
Reinstalled fuel pump, readied the the gas tank to be reinstalled.
Went to the hardware store and got nuts and washers for engine mount through-bolts.
Also got some wire terminals....
Car did a neat trick today too. IT TURNED OVER FOR THE FIRST TIME. Of course, no start since the fuel system isn't finished and the igniton isn't wired.
Everything sounded good, building compression, no odd sounds. No power to my interior lights or gauges which was odd. I will have to figure that out. Dying to see if it's building oil pressure while cranking.
Also made myself a promise, no pictures of anything until it's running!
Went to the hardware store and got nuts and washers for engine mount through-bolts.
Also got some wire terminals....
Car did a neat trick today too. IT TURNED OVER FOR THE FIRST TIME. Of course, no start since the fuel system isn't finished and the igniton isn't wired.
Everything sounded good, building compression, no odd sounds. No power to my interior lights or gauges which was odd. I will have to figure that out. Dying to see if it's building oil pressure while cranking.
Also made myself a promise, no pictures of anything until it's running!
#128
Just want to let everyone know, this project has NOT been given up on! I recently had weight loss surgery (every 100lbs is a 1/10TH!) and have been recovering from that. Also needed help on the electrical. Had it cranking, wired the fuel pump relay, went to test and and....no power at all to the car all of the sudden.
Had my father come down last weekend and we went through all of the under-hood wiring. The OE stuff, stuff others hacked on, and stuff we spliced into the hacked on OE stuff. Found a few minor shorts, fixed some severed wires, removed superfluous (yes, I had to spell check that word) wiring and still....it would sometimes crank, then sometimes have no power, yet all the fuses and breakers were fine. We did have a mystery 50ohm resistance in the system somewhere....
I finally noticed that there appeared to be rubber trapped between the main ground wire lug and the battery terminal. Took that off and sure enough, there was only about 10% of the lug making contact with the battery. After carefully trimming away the rubber from the cheaply made lug, it was reinstalled, the car cranks, power was restored and the mystery resistance went away!
Finally, we rewired the fuel pump relay, put gas in the tank and turned the key. No fuel pump sound, no fuel pressure! Chased the voltage from the battery to the relay to the pump and 12v went all the way. Had a good ground too. Dead pump...and after all the work we put into it. Called it quits and ordered the a new pump.
I pulled the OE steering wheel (will be in the for sale section soon, 1970 RS steering wheel!) to prep for the Grant wheel I'm replacing it with and to allow me to fit better under the dash to replace the poorly installed wiring I did 12 years ago before I knew what I was doing!
Sorry, no photos from the wiring work, I was too busy and in a hurry and LeMans was on and something, something, something. I will go take some pictures of the current state and how I feel about crappy Mallory pumps tonight.
All is well, fire up in 30 days or less (Dr. has told me to take it easy...)
Had my father come down last weekend and we went through all of the under-hood wiring. The OE stuff, stuff others hacked on, and stuff we spliced into the hacked on OE stuff. Found a few minor shorts, fixed some severed wires, removed superfluous (yes, I had to spell check that word) wiring and still....it would sometimes crank, then sometimes have no power, yet all the fuses and breakers were fine. We did have a mystery 50ohm resistance in the system somewhere....
I finally noticed that there appeared to be rubber trapped between the main ground wire lug and the battery terminal. Took that off and sure enough, there was only about 10% of the lug making contact with the battery. After carefully trimming away the rubber from the cheaply made lug, it was reinstalled, the car cranks, power was restored and the mystery resistance went away!
Finally, we rewired the fuel pump relay, put gas in the tank and turned the key. No fuel pump sound, no fuel pressure! Chased the voltage from the battery to the relay to the pump and 12v went all the way. Had a good ground too. Dead pump...and after all the work we put into it. Called it quits and ordered the a new pump.
I pulled the OE steering wheel (will be in the for sale section soon, 1970 RS steering wheel!) to prep for the Grant wheel I'm replacing it with and to allow me to fit better under the dash to replace the poorly installed wiring I did 12 years ago before I knew what I was doing!
Sorry, no photos from the wiring work, I was too busy and in a hurry and LeMans was on and something, something, something. I will go take some pictures of the current state and how I feel about crappy Mallory pumps tonight.
All is well, fire up in 30 days or less (Dr. has told me to take it easy...)
#130
I have also been delayed by getting into professional photography, especially aviation photography. With this being flying season, I've been busy.
So here are some pictures.
Third Mallory pump that's died on me in nine years. Can you tell what I think?
New Aeromotive pump. Sweetness. By the way, glass is sharp on the edges, who knew? (band-aide on my finger)
Took all of the bundles apart.
Left front area is a mess!
Fixed a little wiring here...terrible condition.
Required tools.
Fuel routing.
Serpentine belt alignment is good.
Yanked the steering wheel...it's for sale here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...34#post2403034
And another shot of the engine bay
And the trunk.
So here are some pictures.
Third Mallory pump that's died on me in nine years. Can you tell what I think?
New Aeromotive pump. Sweetness. By the way, glass is sharp on the edges, who knew? (band-aide on my finger)
Took all of the bundles apart.
Left front area is a mess!
Fixed a little wiring here...terrible condition.
Required tools.
Fuel routing.
Serpentine belt alignment is good.
Yanked the steering wheel...it's for sale here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...34#post2403034
And another shot of the engine bay
And the trunk.
#131
So, I pulled my origional steering wheel in preperation to install a Grant wheel and to give me room to work under the dash. Last night, I went into the garage in my socks and underwear (yeah, I know...not a good mental picture) in search of some packing tape. I ended up spending about two hours installing the wheel, making sure the horn worked and centering it as best I can. Now, it's in my way to do the under-dash wiring. What was I thinking? Oh well, one more thing on the list done. Picture to come later.
#133
#136
#137
Installed the new fuel pump today. Wired it up and it works. Looks good too and fits better than the last pump. Odd thing is I found two extra holes under the old pump bracket that were exactly the correct spacing for the new pump. Don't even remember drilling those.
Bad news: I have fuel leaks, mostly on the crappy fuel log I'm having 2nd thoughts about.
Leaks here:
Here:
Here:
And Here:
Also this fitting leaks...
Also wired the fuel pressure guage and it won't work. Suspect the sending unit is dead.
Bad news: I have fuel leaks, mostly on the crappy fuel log I'm having 2nd thoughts about.
Leaks here:
Here:
Here:
And Here:
Also this fitting leaks...
Also wired the fuel pressure guage and it won't work. Suspect the sending unit is dead.
#138
Did an autopsy of the crappy Mallory pump (3rd one I've had go bad on me). The official result: Sat too long with moisture in the pump. Electric motor wasn't sealed well enough. Pump siezed, motor fried, primary power wire melted.
Here's the pump in question. Dead on the examining table.
First I will remove the pump cover. Warning, this will void the warrenty...
Evidence of galling and heat build-up.
Ah-ha, rusty and frozen.
Now, I will take the top cover off and look at the motor.
Rusty, grungy, a little bit on the toasty/fried side of things.
This little guy has melted and burned almost all the way through.
Motor windings are also rusty and grungy.
A collection of some substance in the base of the electric motor. It and the pump and siezed so badly that I couldn't seperate them with a hammer.
So, first two dead pumps were because they suck. This one is mostly my fault, but really...it should have survived a few years without use. Oh well, the Aeromotive pump is light years better.
Here's the pump in question. Dead on the examining table.
First I will remove the pump cover. Warning, this will void the warrenty...
Evidence of galling and heat build-up.
Ah-ha, rusty and frozen.
Now, I will take the top cover off and look at the motor.
Rusty, grungy, a little bit on the toasty/fried side of things.
This little guy has melted and burned almost all the way through.
Motor windings are also rusty and grungy.
A collection of some substance in the base of the electric motor. It and the pump and siezed so badly that I couldn't seperate them with a hammer.
So, first two dead pumps were because they suck. This one is mostly my fault, but really...it should have survived a few years without use. Oh well, the Aeromotive pump is light years better.