1998 Mustang LSx progress pics
1998 Mustang LSx progress pics Today I test fit the engine into the car with the 4.6/5.4 motor mounts and it didn't fit. The oil pan hit the AJE k-member. The LSx mounts should be here this week. I measurd for the water/air intercooler, and it will be mounted and wrapped right behind the rad.
I have to cut the passenger manifold so it will clear the sway bar.
I cut the drivers side manifold so I could use the stock power steering pump
The factory Alternator bracket from the trucks works perfectly, although it does just barely touch the hood liner. I am going to leave it as is because it is a really good fit.
Question for anyone who has installed a LS1 manifold on a truck location alternator, what did you do for idler pulley relocation?
-Garrett
p.s. - please feel free to post comments or questions.
I have to cut the passenger manifold so it will clear the sway bar.
I cut the drivers side manifold so I could use the stock power steering pump
The factory Alternator bracket from the trucks works perfectly, although it does just barely touch the hood liner. I am going to leave it as is because it is a really good fit.
Question for anyone who has installed a LS1 manifold on a truck location alternator, what did you do for idler pulley relocation?
-Garrett
p.s. - please feel free to post comments or questions.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Idler...Q5fCarQ5fParts
Looks like this might be the idler pulley solution.
-Garrett
Looks like this might be the idler pulley solution.
-Garrett
You will need to shave a bit off the cruise control mount for the cable throttle control if you are using the drive by cable to make it clear the upper water pump outlet. Alternately, you could use a car water pump but will need spacers or swap the pulley.
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^^ perfect thanks! I also saw on another site that a guy took a pie cut out of the outlet, bent it down and rewelded it... and he was able to keep his cruise. 2 ideas is always better than one when it comes down to the fabrication.
-Garrett
-Garrett
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Verdad Gallardo I would rather make custom spacers to move the car WP forward than do that (one of my next projects). If you are stuck in the middle of nowhere (as I once was in a friends totally stock car) you can't mod the water pump you need in the parts store parking lot with borrowed tools. All the wear parts on my cars are unmolested for that very reason.
If it NEEDS to be modded to fit, have a spare (Gary's 68) otherwise, stay stock as you can on stuff like that.
Just my opinion... which to most people, isn't worth the electrons it took to display on your screen.
If it NEEDS to be modded to fit, have a spare (Gary's 68) otherwise, stay stock as you can on stuff like that.
Just my opinion... which to most people, isn't worth the electrons it took to display on your screen.
That is some good food for thought. Maybe I will look into the price of the other pump, but for initial install almost everything is being left stock, and once it is all fabbed up and running, I will pull it all and make most of the final adjustments.
-Garrett
-Garrett
well, the new mounts arrived today and I am 99% sure they won't work at all, in fact I would go as far to say that they will make the issue worse. With the ford mounts I had to elongate 2 holes so it would bolt onto the block, and then couldn't mount it in the car cause the oil pan hit the K-member. Now with the SBC/ls mounts, the mount still has to be drilled, it moves the engine further forward, and it lowers the engine another 1/2" at least.
I needed the engine to move back 1/2" and up 1/4" or so, and it did exactly the opposite. To top it off the bottom back hole that I have to drill will likely be exactly where the metal brace is... so maybe only use 3 bolts, I will call them monday I guess and ask if I can try the mounts (drill) and if they don't work still do a direct exchange, or, maybe a refund. I hear from some people that the customer service is really good, so I am hopefully all will be well. But that just means no engine install this weekend.
-Garrett
I needed the engine to move back 1/2" and up 1/4" or so, and it did exactly the opposite. To top it off the bottom back hole that I have to drill will likely be exactly where the metal brace is... so maybe only use 3 bolts, I will call them monday I guess and ask if I can try the mounts (drill) and if they don't work still do a direct exchange, or, maybe a refund. I hear from some people that the customer service is really good, so I am hopefully all will be well. But that just means no engine install this weekend.
-Garrett
That is what is in mine... I have another fbody pan, windage tray, pickup available if you are interested PM me
I'm going to go out on a limb and say your doing something wrong.
A few threads down some guy is using a stock 6.0 with stock pan with AJE lsx swap and it clears fine. See whats up. Is it possible to put it on backwards?
Heres the thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-0-th350.html
A few threads down some guy is using a stock 6.0 with stock pan with AJE lsx swap and it clears fine. See whats up. Is it possible to put it on backwards?
Heres the thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-0-th350.html
yah, from all the threads I have seen the LSx should just bolt right in and have no issues. But for some reason my oil pan (I have a truck and LS1) they are both too far forward and hit the K-member right where the pan is slanted down for the pickup. I will have to cut the mounts off the mount and weld them on about 1/2" further forward, to move the engine back that 1/2". But I will call them monday first.
-Garrett
-Garrett
Well, a little more research, and this is the issue:
I have this pan
LS2 pan:
and this is the truck pan that fits:
I need only 1/2" clearance, so I will have to put my truck pan back on, and sell my brand LS2 pan, and buy a LS1 pan soon.
-Garrett
I have this pan
LS2 pan:
and this is the truck pan that fits:
I need only 1/2" clearance, so I will have to put my truck pan back on, and sell my brand LS2 pan, and buy a LS1 pan soon.
-Garrett
