'64 Chevelle 5.3/4L60E swap build thread
02-13-2012, 02:24 PM
#61
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Well, just when I thought I had it figured out I changed my mind. I realized that I could move the motor forward if I would grind off the triangle shaped tab on the drivers side 98-02 camaro exhaust manifold. This should help with drive-line angle so out came the motor last night.
In the past I had modified the 1" setback plates to be installed with or without setback so I put the motor mounts on with no setback, adjusted the frame stands as far back as possible instead of as far forward as possible, and ground off the tab on the exhaust manifold. Going to install tonight and hope that everything still fits this way.
In the past I had modified the 1" setback plates to be installed with or without setback so I put the motor mounts on with no setback, adjusted the frame stands as far back as possible instead of as far forward as possible, and ground off the tab on the exhaust manifold. Going to install tonight and hope that everything still fits this way.
02-19-2012, 11:18 PM
#62
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After moving the engine forward 1" I have the engine at the down angle I wanted but the power steering pump hits the steering gear before I can bolt the accessory drive to the engine. Tried to clearance the pump and the bolt on the steering gear but ended up ruining the reservoir on the pump.
So I thought "How hard could it be to make a custom bracket". So I bought a 98 S10 PS pump (Type II with attached reservoir) off eBay, went to lowes and got some tubing and a 1/4 inch sheet of wood to make templates from, and went to work.
Somewhere around revision 4 it became clear why KWIK performance can ask such a high price for their brackets. It also became clear to me that I was taking somthing difficult and making it harder than necessary. So I take the truck accessory bracket and cut a chunk off of it. Then I drilled some holes for the type II PS pump, and now I am back in business. I did have to use some washers to shim the pump back on the backside but it is perfectly square to the other pulleys. Only small issue is the pulley is about 1/8 inch from being fully pressed on, but I do not think this will be a problem.
I even have an idea for mounting the external reservoir on the side of the bracket but haven't got that finished yet.
So I thought "How hard could it be to make a custom bracket". So I bought a 98 S10 PS pump (Type II with attached reservoir) off eBay, went to lowes and got some tubing and a 1/4 inch sheet of wood to make templates from, and went to work.
Somewhere around revision 4 it became clear why KWIK performance can ask such a high price for their brackets. It also became clear to me that I was taking somthing difficult and making it harder than necessary. So I take the truck accessory bracket and cut a chunk off of it. Then I drilled some holes for the type II PS pump, and now I am back in business. I did have to use some washers to shim the pump back on the backside but it is perfectly square to the other pulleys. Only small issue is the pulley is about 1/8 inch from being fully pressed on, but I do not think this will be a problem.
I even have an idea for mounting the external reservoir on the side of the bracket but haven't got that finished yet.
Last edited by neal64ss; 07-24-2012 at 10:30 AM.
02-20-2012, 08:57 AM
#63
That pulley looks fully installed to me. Take a close look at the inside bore of the pulley. See if there isn't a slight "step" machined where it stopped. Mine has one. That pulley looks exactly like mine...and I know mine is fully installed. Even the aftermarket pulley I bought has a step there. But keep a close eye on that pulley. If it's plastic, they have a habit of cracking after they are removed/installed once.
02-20-2012, 09:29 AM
#64
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That pulley looks fully installed to me. Take a close look at the inside bore of the pulley. See if there isn't a slight "step" machined where it stopped. Mine has one. That pulley looks exactly like mine...and I know mine is fully installed. Even the aftermarket pulley I bought has a step there. But keep a close eye on that pulley. If it's plastic, they have a habit of cracking after they are removed/installed once.
Last edited by neal64ss; 02-20-2012 at 09:54 AM.
04-05-2012, 02:10 PM
#65
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Were you able to find anyone that offered a mechanical speedo conversion for the 4L60E? I know you converted your gauges but I figured someone makes a mechanicals conversion. You are doing a really good job. I am contemplating this on a 65 300 deluxe. Do you have expectations on mpgs?
04-05-2012, 10:24 PM
#66
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Been a long time since an update.
Started the engine today. Sounded like all hell was breaking loose at first, like the alternator was trying to lock up or something. To make a long story short I think the accessory belt idler pulley was loose and that was resonating through the PS pump/alt bracket I fabricated. I cranked it with the coil and injector fuses pulled till I got oil pressure and then had to crank it for about 2 minutes, with it gradually getting closer and closer to running before it started. After a few minutes it ran and idles smooth. The thing that impressed me the most it that the drive by wire has the same feel as the old throttle linkage did.
Found a couple of leaks in the tranny lines and tightened them, topped off PS fluid after turning lock to lock several times. All the gauges work but my tach is not working and my check engine light doesn't work. Hooked up the laptop and see codes stored P0650 MIL light malfunction, and codes pending P0053/P0059 which are both O2 sensor heater resistance codes.
Anyone know what type of bulb is necessary for the check engine light. I am going to double check my wiring tomorrow.
Also, does anyone know why I would be getting the O2 heater codes. I only ran the engine about 15 minutes and it never got warmer than about 140 F, if that could be a factor.
Started the engine today. Sounded like all hell was breaking loose at first, like the alternator was trying to lock up or something. To make a long story short I think the accessory belt idler pulley was loose and that was resonating through the PS pump/alt bracket I fabricated. I cranked it with the coil and injector fuses pulled till I got oil pressure and then had to crank it for about 2 minutes, with it gradually getting closer and closer to running before it started. After a few minutes it ran and idles smooth. The thing that impressed me the most it that the drive by wire has the same feel as the old throttle linkage did.
Found a couple of leaks in the tranny lines and tightened them, topped off PS fluid after turning lock to lock several times. All the gauges work but my tach is not working and my check engine light doesn't work. Hooked up the laptop and see codes stored P0650 MIL light malfunction, and codes pending P0053/P0059 which are both O2 sensor heater resistance codes.
Anyone know what type of bulb is necessary for the check engine light. I am going to double check my wiring tomorrow.
Also, does anyone know why I would be getting the O2 heater codes. I only ran the engine about 15 minutes and it never got warmer than about 140 F, if that could be a factor.
04-05-2012, 10:25 PM
#67
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Were you able to find anyone that offered a mechanical speedo conversion for the 4L60E? I know you converted your gauges but I figured someone makes a mechanicals conversion. You are doing a really good job. I am contemplating this on a 65 300 deluxe. Do you have expectations on mpgs?
04-06-2012, 08:54 AM
#68
Do you have the heaters hooked up on the O2 sensors?
By the way, I also know that there are some of these O2 codes you need to have your tuner shut off if you run long tubes. I can't recall which ones...maybe the tuner sections of the forum would be a good place to look. I had a couple that I believe were slow response codes IIRC.
By the way, I also know that there are some of these O2 codes you need to have your tuner shut off if you run long tubes. I can't recall which ones...maybe the tuner sections of the forum would be a good place to look. I had a couple that I believe were slow response codes IIRC.
04-06-2012, 09:42 PM
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Sure enough, it was the bulb that was the problem. I tried 3 different types of dorman bulbs before I found one that would illuminate and stay illuminated when required. I had the same issue with the indicator I was trying to use for high beams "on". The wrong type of indicator light will flash and then go out when it is supposed to light and stay lit.
Dorman 85939 is what I found that works for the MIL light. I use this same style bulb for my alt light also, and will be getting one in either green or blue to do the high beam indicator.
Dorman 85939 is what I found that works for the MIL light. I use this same style bulb for my alt light also, and will be getting one in either green or blue to do the high beam indicator.
04-07-2012, 12:46 PM
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Car runs and drives but acts like it is missing. Runs smooth at idle but it seems as it warms up it runs worse and worse, like one of the cylinders is not firing. Pulled the plugs and they all looked fine but they were from the donor engine so I replaced them with new plugs. Only slightly better.
When I stop after engine warms up it will die if I don't feather the throttle. Put it in park and it is smooth. WTF!
Does anyone think it could be clogged injectors????
When I stop after engine warms up it will die if I don't feather the throttle. Put it in park and it is smooth. WTF!
Does anyone think it could be clogged injectors????
04-07-2012, 01:13 PM
#71
You know, you could throw a ton of money at this and totally miss the issue. If this were my car, I would put it on a GOOD scan tool...not just a code reader. I use a Genesis EVO. Not only look at codes, but look at the data stream and see what's going on. The old stand by tests of fuel pressure, compression, vacuum leaks, etc should be checked first. If you don't have access to the tools to do these things, you might find it a whole bunch cheaper to take it someplace it does than just guess at things.
04-07-2012, 02:21 PM
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You know, you could throw a ton of money at this and totally miss the issue. If this were my car, I would put it on a GOOD scan tool...not just a code reader. I use a Genesis EVO. Not only look at codes, but look at the data stream and see what's going on. The old stand by tests of fuel pressure, compression, vacuum leaks, etc should be checked first. If you don't have access to the tools to do these things, you might find it a whole bunch cheaper to take it someplace it does than just guess at things.
I am afraid of throwing money at someone to "tune" it also.
04-07-2012, 04:07 PM
#73
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So I try trending a few things and notice that the malfunction codes for the O2 sensors has cleared, without me having to clear them.
I guess that's a good thing, one less thing to worry about.
So I trend several different parameters and the one that looks weird to me is MAF. Shows .8 to 28.7 on the scale (or something close to that) but has alot of sharp spikes. I expected to see more of a rather smooth curve than such sharp peaks. This sound normal to anyone.
I guess that's a good thing, one less thing to worry about.
So I trend several different parameters and the one that looks weird to me is MAF. Shows .8 to 28.7 on the scale (or something close to that) but has alot of sharp spikes. I expected to see more of a rather smooth curve than such sharp peaks. This sound normal to anyone.
04-08-2012, 11:35 AM
#74
Many times, when you add a cold air intake, the manufacturer hasn't done their homework and they change the airflow over the meter. That can cause big problems. Or if you build your own you can disrupt air over the meter. I've seen folks do things as simple as rotate the meter to as complicated as mounting the meter in the fenderwell. I remember the old MAC cold air kits on MAF Fox bodies. They placed the filter in just the right spot where the alternator fan actually disrupted the air going into the filter and across the meter...which caused idle issues. It's crazy little things like that that will drive you to drink.
Has a tune been done to it at all? I'm wondering if something was shut off and not reporting. If it's that bad, it should be giving you a code to look at. Also, unplug the MAF meter when it's acting up and see if there is any difference.
Has a tune been done to it at all? I'm wondering if something was shut off and not reporting. If it's that bad, it should be giving you a code to look at. Also, unplug the MAF meter when it's acting up and see if there is any difference.
04-08-2012, 02:43 PM
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I tried unplugging the MAF sensor. It purred like a kitten until it warmed up and then the same rough issues. Not showing any codes either. I am not sure what to do. I had the PCM programed by the guy from LT1swap.com, he removed the VATS, rear O2's ect. and basically left it as a stock tune for stand alone operation.
Another odd thing is that the tach and speedo do not work, both new gauges. I haven't had time to double check my wiring, I hope that is all it is. The dashboard on the laptop software shows a tach and speedo and they both work fine, so I know the PCM has the signal it just isn't getting to the gauges in the dash.
Another odd thing is that the tach and speedo do not work, both new gauges. I haven't had time to double check my wiring, I hope that is all it is. The dashboard on the laptop software shows a tach and speedo and they both work fine, so I know the PCM has the signal it just isn't getting to the gauges in the dash.
04-09-2012, 09:22 AM
#76
This must be driving you crazy.
It does sound like you could have MAF sensor issues though. Whether it's the sensor itself or the wiring, tuning, etc will take some work.
With all the problems you are having, my suggestion would be to start at the problems you know you can fix and fix each one...one at a time. Start reducing things down to a manageable level. This can be very frustrating...even for experienced techs.
It does sound like you could have MAF sensor issues though. Whether it's the sensor itself or the wiring, tuning, etc will take some work.
With all the problems you are having, my suggestion would be to start at the problems you know you can fix and fix each one...one at a time. Start reducing things down to a manageable level. This can be very frustrating...even for experienced techs.
04-09-2012, 07:54 PM
#77
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This must be driving you crazy.
It does sound like you could have MAF sensor issues though. Whether it's the sensor itself or the wiring, tuning, etc will take some work.
With all the problems you are having, my suggestion would be to start at the problems you know you can fix and fix each one...one at a time. Start reducing things down to a manageable level. This can be very frustrating...even for experienced techs.
It does sound like you could have MAF sensor issues though. Whether it's the sensor itself or the wiring, tuning, etc will take some work.
With all the problems you are having, my suggestion would be to start at the problems you know you can fix and fix each one...one at a time. Start reducing things down to a manageable level. This can be very frustrating...even for experienced techs.
Anyone know a good tuner in Russellville, AR?
04-18-2012, 01:34 AM
#78
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I think I may have found my trouble. I think I forgot to tell my mail order tuner that I was using normal injectors and not flex fuel injectors.
My trouble is long term fuel trims LTFT are running at or near +25% most of the time. Bank 1 is maxed most of the time, bank 2 is 10-25% and maxed some of the time. Car is running rough and very rich, the old oxygen sensors I replaced were covered with black soot, but car doesn't smoke.
I replaced oxygen sensors and got rid of my trouble codes for oxygen heaters malfunctioned. Now I am getting P0171, system too lean. I cannot find a vacuum leak and I have cleaned the MAF sensor and it appears to be reading correctly when I trend it.
I guess the PCM thinks there is excess O2 in the exhaust and keeps trying to add more fuel to compensate. If it thinks it has a flex fuel injector (bigger injector) then the PCM would call for a shorter pulse than needed for a normal injector. But since it is a normal injector it doesn't get as much fuel as it needs, so it is running lean and trys to increase the fuel trims to compensate.
Anyone think I am on the right track?
My trouble is long term fuel trims LTFT are running at or near +25% most of the time. Bank 1 is maxed most of the time, bank 2 is 10-25% and maxed some of the time. Car is running rough and very rich, the old oxygen sensors I replaced were covered with black soot, but car doesn't smoke.
I replaced oxygen sensors and got rid of my trouble codes for oxygen heaters malfunctioned. Now I am getting P0171, system too lean. I cannot find a vacuum leak and I have cleaned the MAF sensor and it appears to be reading correctly when I trend it.
I guess the PCM thinks there is excess O2 in the exhaust and keeps trying to add more fuel to compensate. If it thinks it has a flex fuel injector (bigger injector) then the PCM would call for a shorter pulse than needed for a normal injector. But since it is a normal injector it doesn't get as much fuel as it needs, so it is running lean and trys to increase the fuel trims to compensate.
Anyone think I am on the right track?
