4L60e questions
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4L60e questions Ok, I have I a 2004 Vortec engine and I picked up a late 4L60e and was told it was from a 1999 Astrovan 4.3 (I think).
The casting on the case is 24207965 and it the bellhousing will physically bolt up to the engine (2-piece bell and six bolt tailshaft).
My question is will this tranny work with the Gen III engine and bolt up fine? Or will I need to modify / adapt something to get it to work? I'm scared that the astrovan was a gen II engine and something is different.
If there is some modifying involved please post in here, I tried to search and it's a pain to look through thousands of threads just for an answer like this.
Thanks in advance
The casting on the case is 24207965 and it the bellhousing will physically bolt up to the engine (2-piece bell and six bolt tailshaft).
My question is will this tranny work with the Gen III engine and bolt up fine? Or will I need to modify / adapt something to get it to work? I'm scared that the astrovan was a gen II engine and something is different.
If there is some modifying involved please post in here, I tried to search and it's a pain to look through thousands of threads just for an answer like this.
Thanks in advance
You would have to know if the Astro was a V6 or V8. If it was a V6 you will need the spacer from GM or other sources, if it's an 8 bolt her up and have a good day! The V6 crank spacing is the Gen I / II style and thus .400" shorter than the Gen III input.
The two piece case with the six bolt tail shaft is the late 1996 / 1997 or newer case but the input side is different from V6 to V8.
Hope this helps.
The two piece case with the six bolt tail shaft is the late 1996 / 1997 or newer case but the input side is different from V6 to V8.
Hope this helps.
Then you need the GM spacer and six longer bolts for the flex plate. You may have to elongate the three holes for the torque converter in the flex plate slightly because they won't line up.
The GM part numbers are 12563532 and six of 13563533. Total cost should be about $80 from your local GMPP dealer or if one isn't near, Skoggin Dickey (site sponsor). I'm lucky enough to be able to source locally and save on shipping.
Remember the bolts that hold the trans and engine together are metric so you may well grab some of those while you are there or stop at the hardware store before going home.
The GM part numbers are 12563532 and six of 13563533. Total cost should be about $80 from your local GMPP dealer or if one isn't near, Skoggin Dickey (site sponsor). I'm lucky enough to be able to source locally and save on shipping.
Remember the bolts that hold the trans and engine together are metric so you may well grab some of those while you are there or stop at the hardware store before going home.
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thanks for the info, so if I was to buy a new higher stall torque convertor then I would need to locate one for a pre-97 4L60e or 700r4 with the older input shaft?
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Looks like you doing a conversion. Are you keeping your 5.3 stock? just curious as to what mods you will be doing to the tranny if any? I am in the process of building my LS motor now and will be doing tranny next.
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Internally my engine is stock, I added a Ls1 Intake and bracketry for hood clearances.
Mu tranny is stock as well, but I did install a corvette servo this morning and will most like put in a higher stall torque converter.
Mu tranny is stock as well, but I did install a corvette servo this morning and will most like put in a higher stall torque converter.
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Verdad Gallardo 12563533 is the correct part number. I miskeyed that one, sorry.
Staging Lane
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Why the Corvette servo? What is the benefit of adding this? Also what size stall converter are you going to go with?
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http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1159
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=117743
Not sure on the stall yet, maybe something in the 2000 - 2400 range, nothing too crazy but little more than stock.
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Got my spacer and bolts today, I was wondering...I can still re-use my 5.3 vortec flywheel against the 4L60e tranny? But I would still need to enlongate the bolt holes correct?
Depending on the converter I would wait and see if it needs to be modded. I used my converter as a template and it didn't take much.
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I've been through the "make sure the TC is seated" scenerio before, lets just say for arguments sake it is......is it normal for the tc to be tight? or should there be a gap between the flyhweel and TC when the tranny is bolted in place?
I'm just concerned about mixing and matching parts and I could be have some clearance issues....I loosened the bolts and pryed the tranny back 1/8" and the TC is spinning freely now.
The TC should be able to spin freely when the trans is bolted to the back of the engine. You can (for test purposes obviously) run the engine without the TC attached to check for vibrations and such (done it) by unbolting it and sliding it all the way back into the transmission.
In your scenario something isn't quite aligned properly. Did you test-fit slip the nose of the converter in the adapter before you assembled everything? Is the transmission going on straight? I've gotten over zealous and started bolting up the trans only to realize it wasn't straight and had a similar issue.
One last thing... do you have the alignment dowels in the block? That will cause all sorts of havoc if you don't.
In your scenario something isn't quite aligned properly. Did you test-fit slip the nose of the converter in the adapter before you assembled everything? Is the transmission going on straight? I've gotten over zealous and started bolting up the trans only to realize it wasn't straight and had a similar issue.
One last thing... do you have the alignment dowels in the block? That will cause all sorts of havoc if you don't. 
might be a little off topic, but- a guy locally has an 04 2wd v8 4l60E with about 113k on it for pretty cheap, I was wondering if it might be a safe buy to freshen up and run w/o rebuilding..
I pulled the dipstick and the fluid looks clean, but that's pretty much it.. didn't know if there were many issues with these trannys, option is either something along these lines or saving up a little more and going with a rebuilt unit.. any input/advise is appreciated.
(I've rebuilt th350s in the past with success, ripped apart 700s, but never an actual rebuild on one)- no longer have access to as many transmission tools as I did a few years ago
I pulled the dipstick and the fluid looks clean, but that's pretty much it.. didn't know if there were many issues with these trannys, option is either something along these lines or saving up a little more and going with a rebuilt unit.. any input/advise is appreciated.
(I've rebuilt th350s in the past with success, ripped apart 700s, but never an actual rebuild on one)- no longer have access to as many transmission tools as I did a few years ago
