46 Studebaker M5
I think what helped on these is the weld is almost centered within the flange. Tube is inserted halfway in, then welded inside the hole. If all the weld were on the outside it would pull tight on that side. I did weld 3/4" on the topside of the tubes just for extra support.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 411
Likes: 8
Thank you for the info
Funny you ask, the 3/8 flanges that were on the hooker shorties that I started with were a little bit warped from the factory. I bought 1/2 flanges and just bounced around while welding to keep one are from getting too hot. I put a straightedge on them afterwards and found less than .010 warpage across the entire flange.
I think what helped on these is the weld is almost centered within the flange. Tube is inserted halfway in, then welded inside the hole. If all the weld were on the outside it would pull tight on that side. I did weld 3/4" on the topside of the tubes just for extra support.
I think what helped on these is the weld is almost centered within the flange. Tube is inserted halfway in, then welded inside the hole. If all the weld were on the outside it would pull tight on that side. I did weld 3/4" on the topside of the tubes just for extra support.
Made a little bit of progress. Searched and found a 9" ford rear axle that was the width I wanted, sent the 31 spline axles off to moser and had them cut the flange down and redrill them for my bolt pattern. Bought a disc brake conversion for it. Got it set under the truck at ride height, had to notch the frame some just for ride height. It will need a full c-notch but for now, this will allow me to build the rear suspension.
I moved the axle forward 3" from factory location. I think it will look better this way and transfer weight better. Axle was 5" behind the centerline of the bed originally. I still need to shorten the step and move the fender forward 3" as well but you get the idea. The wheels will be gloss black.
Oh yeah, and I also ordered one of these....
I moved the axle forward 3" from factory location. I think it will look better this way and transfer weight better. Axle was 5" behind the centerline of the bed originally. I still need to shorten the step and move the fender forward 3" as well but you get the idea. The wheels will be gloss black.
Oh yeah, and I also ordered one of these....
Got my harness in from BP Automotive. Bill does a very nice job building these things and really makes it very easy to get it up and running. Here is a quick video on the run stand. This is just a stock 5.3 that I got off craigslist, wanted to test it and harness at the same time.
Lol, well the vette stuff has it's own issues. While the geometry is pretty good, the parts are now old and things like a reman rack and pinion are hard to find. I'm still sorting mine all out. I would think the firebird front would be fine as long as it was installed with the crossmember square to the truck.
Finally made a little bit of progress on this thing. Got the craigslist lq4 back together finally and running. This will be the engine for the first couple years on the road then I will decide how I want to upgrade it.
LQ4, stock rod crank and pistons
Dart 205 heads
Lunati 217/223 .549/.549 cam
Truck intake
Flex fuel injectors
Test stand run
And with headers
LQ4, stock rod crank and pistons
Dart 205 heads
Lunati 217/223 .549/.549 cam
Truck intake
Flex fuel injectors
Test stand run
And with headers
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 8,030
Likes: 661
Bolt it to someing. I've seen some use a pc of channel and another to 3x3x3/8" angle to a spare head. Just AnYTHING that is robust enought to resist warping. I would also only weld a little at a time. Air cool if you have a compressor.
I used a c4 crossmember to keep everything in place, budget build. Measured ride height and angle on a c4 then set it up in my chassis to match.
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 954
Likes: 9
From: Encinitas CA
VERY Cool project....engine sounds great; look forward to updates. I did an L92 / 6L80 install on my '51 Ford pickup along with a triangulated 4 link with 9" of my own design in case you are interested. Found the 4link calculator very helpful. I'd never have gotten instant centers correct, nor been able to minimize rear axle steer if I hadn't used the tool.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...all-51-f1.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...all-51-f1.html
VERY Cool project....engine sounds great; look forward to updates. I did an L92 / 6L80 install on my '51 Ford pickup along with a triangulated 4 link with 9" of my own design in case you are interested. Found the 4link calculator very helpful. I'd never have gotten instant centers correct, nor been able to minimize rear axle steer if I hadn't used the tool.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...all-51-f1.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...all-51-f1.html
Sweet truck, I really like that combined lower link/coilover mount.
TECH Resident
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 954
Likes: 9
From: Encinitas CA
Thank you. You can buy that lower link shock mount bracket from welderseries.com
Originally, I was going to buy four of those large lubricated heim joints (called Johnnyjoints) to make sure my rear end articulated properly by replacing one set of bushings on each of the links. I had them on backorder, in fact for about $250. After driving the truck following the rear end conversion, I promptly canceled the order. The ride with the triangulated four link is very compliant. AND the tunability with the two-way adjustable shocks makes it really great.
I'd highly recommend Viking's coil-over products. You can get two-way adjustable for the price of one-way from QA1. (about $600 all-around with springs, bearings, etc.)
Or if your budget is really big, you can buy their new electronically adjustable damping released at SEMA in 2013. It uses a computer, accelerometers to adjust suspension damping on the fly. I believe the shocks are all retro-fit-able, too with their control system. I think that package is about $5k.
Look forward to your build updates!
Doug
Originally, I was going to buy four of those large lubricated heim joints (called Johnnyjoints) to make sure my rear end articulated properly by replacing one set of bushings on each of the links. I had them on backorder, in fact for about $250. After driving the truck following the rear end conversion, I promptly canceled the order. The ride with the triangulated four link is very compliant. AND the tunability with the two-way adjustable shocks makes it really great.
I'd highly recommend Viking's coil-over products. You can get two-way adjustable for the price of one-way from QA1. (about $600 all-around with springs, bearings, etc.)
Or if your budget is really big, you can buy their new electronically adjustable damping released at SEMA in 2013. It uses a computer, accelerometers to adjust suspension damping on the fly. I believe the shocks are all retro-fit-able, too with their control system. I think that package is about $5k.
Look forward to your build updates!
Doug
Originally, I was going to buy four of those large lubricated heim joints (called Johnnyjoints) to make sure my rear end articulated properly by replacing one set of bushings on each of the links. I had them on backorder, in fact for about $250. After driving the truck following the rear end conversion, I promptly canceled the order. The ride with the triangulated four link is very compliant. AND the tunability with the two-way adjustable shocks makes it really great.
Made a bit more progress this weekend, got the transmission crossmember installed. Also reinforced the firewall for the brake and clutch master cylinders and started working on the transmission tunnel. Need more supplies to continue.
Made a little bit more progress, it's slow going at this point. Working out all the details of brake, gas and clutch pedals, firewall reinforcement for the pedals, tunel and firewall clearance, steering column mounting, rust repair etc takes up some time but I just about got it all figured out.
Trans tunnel and shifter boot mount.
Trans tunnel and shifter boot mount.
Made some more progress, nothing spectacular though. Found an s10 seat on craigslist so I worked on the floor all weekend. Almost done, just some welding and a little bit more rust repair.
Seats just resting in there for fitment. Seem to fit pretty good, it's a little snug but they didn't make cabs very big back then.
Trying to get the floor finished out, most of it is done or atleast tacked up. Just have a few small areas of rust repair to take care of.
Seats just resting in there for fitment. Seem to fit pretty good, it's a little snug but they didn't make cabs very big back then.
Trying to get the floor finished out, most of it is done or atleast tacked up. Just have a few small areas of rust repair to take care of.
Still making progress but it's slow for the amount of hours I'm putting in on it.
Seat mounts built.
Seatbelt mounts welded in.
Cab flipped and bottom side welded out and coated.
Frame rails boxed in to the back of the cab. Will continue to the rear when the cab is back on and bed off.
Drilled and tapped holes in boxing plate for brake line, wire harness and fuel lines.
Finished welding and grinding firewall, its ready for filler.
Seat mounts built.
Seatbelt mounts welded in.
Cab flipped and bottom side welded out and coated.
Frame rails boxed in to the back of the cab. Will continue to the rear when the cab is back on and bed off.
Drilled and tapped holes in boxing plate for brake line, wire harness and fuel lines.
Finished welding and grinding firewall, its ready for filler.
Last edited by Bowtie316; Mar 16, 2015 at 08:54 AM.