Its on 06 GTO LS2 into a 2000 cherokee. I got all of the wiring done... added an auxiliary fuse block to replace the GTO one and power the injectors, coils, sensors, and TCM. The fuse block is powered off of a relay and controlled by the PCM (forget which wire but IIRC it's brown) just like the factory setup. That is all working correctly. I am putting power to the wires that are found in the C1 connector that are ignition 1 voltage and ignition 3 voltage (pins 14 and 19) and that makes the Drive by wire function, and also makes the computer energize that relay and turn on the relay for the engine power, and it even kicks on the fuel pump like it should. I am using the Jeep factory harness hooked up to the starter, so the engine will turn over b/c the start function is not flowing through the GM computer, and therfore, we are bypassing the start disable function. The problem is that while everything seems to be working correctly, the coils are not firing...

Im not sure about the injectors as I don't have any noid lights to check with. Could the VATS be causing the computer to not send a signal to the coils? I am pretty sure that I have everything hooked up correctly, but I hat to tow it an hour to the tuner to have the VATS turned off only to find out that I have something hooked up wrong and it isn't going to run.

Is there any way to check and see if the computer is telling them to fire and they aren't (like maybe not a good ground or something)?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Have you tried scanning the computer via the obd2 port? If the scanner cant get any feedback from the computer then you know that the computer isn't properly wired. Also, triple check all grounds, battery to engine, engine to frame, and engine to body, all three grounds have to be connected.

Also, if it was the vats it would still start and run for about 10 secs before cutting off. But you may also have a problem existing in the vats from the Cherokee itself especially since you're using its starter wires. The jeeps bcm(body control module) may be looking for the signal from the jeeps original pcm as the 3 of them(vats, pcm, bcm) work in unison to prevent theft of the vehicle. I had an unfortunate situation with my 99' Cherokee 5.9 due to the aftermarket Viper alarm and the factory vats system not wanting to be bothered with one another.

 

No offense, but you don't know what you are talking about... first of all, the Cherokee doesn't have a VATS system. And even if it did it wouldn't matter b/c I am drawing power directly from the ignition switch on the Jeep, and it is powering the computer. It never loses power. Not only that, the Jeep computer is still there, all hooked up. The only wiring that was removed was the stuff for the injectors and a few other engine sensors. I did this so I can install the Jeep senders into the LS engine and use the factory Jeep gauges. Also, the VATS system on a GM vehicle would only allow the engine to run for up to less than 1 second, not 10. From what I have read though, on the 05 up GTOs, the thing won't even turn over without the correct key b/c the computer checks for it before it gives an "OK to start" signal. I'm not sure if this is correct though, nobody seems to really know much of anything about the wiring and functionality on an LS2 computer system.

Unfortunately, I don't have a working scan tool at the moment, so I have no idea what's going on.

Can anybody give me the pin outs of the connectors C1, C101, C201, and C206? Its an 06 GTO automatic.

I have all data which is what I have been using to wire this thing, but I simply hate it. I have had more luck using Google that it b/c the search function in AD sucks! haha.

 

Maybe your model Cherokee didnt come with the factory anti theft system but I know motherfuckin well mine did, and I also know the bullshit that I experienced with it and the aftermarket Viper alarm not working together properly. This I know for sure! And I also know that the vats on the GM computers all work the same, the computer looking for the signal from the key, my guesstimated time may have been a little off but that is what happens. And I also know that the GTO has a bcm which you dont have which in turn means that you're going to need the vats deleted from the pcm altogether or else you will be still digging in your ******* trying to figure out why it's not starting. I was only trying to help out with my knowledge and personal experience.
Spend a few dollars over at alldatadiy.com and you will have all the needed wiring diagrams for the year GTO you're working with.

 

vats as I know will prevent pcm from firing the injectors. (and starter IF YOU USE THE FACTORY GM STARTING CIRCUITS) It will not kill spark.

If you have no spark at all..first thing i would do is check power & ground AT THE COIL connectors on each valve cover. Check the PINK for 12v+ with key ON and DURING CRANK.

Next, check for GROUND at the solid BLACK wire. Very often a ground is missed and you will get no coils firing. Also, sometimes KEY hot devices are wired to an accessory power, which IS NOT HOT during CRANK.

 

Ok boss lets lay it out......

The way it works is, you will have problems from the jump

The way the 05-06 GTO ignition works is.....

The BCM holds the resistor for the VATS and looks for the resistance for the key which you place in the ignition lock... If the BCM does not recieve the correct ressitance, it will not start..... Now in the GTO when you hit the button on the key or put the key in the ignition.... a signal is sent to the BCM which sends a signal and data to the PIM(power interface module) that intern sends a signal to the ECM.... The ECM and the BCM do not speak the same langauge.... The PIM interprets the data from the ECM to the BCM and BCM to the ECM vise versa.......

Now, if you want to do it correct, you will need to have the VATs removed from the ECM which will basically disable the ECM from looking for the data from the PIM that is recieved from the BCM....

Yes you will need to bypass the GTO BCM with wiring..... You will also need to look in the harness if factory for the connectors to the PIM and loop these..... Also check your acc voltage vs ign voltage, both are different...

Once you figure out the wiring, and pin it out..... check your wires for continuity.......

I just did a 06 GTO LS2 4L65E... factory wiring harness and 90% of what you need will be on the C1.........

PS: I don't know about the jeep motors but the LS senders threads are metric.... so I don't know if thats going to work properly......

Sounds like to me your rigging it up...... I don't think your going in the right direction....... good luck......

 

I tried explaining this same **** to DUDE 2 post ago.
Pride n ***** will be a weak mans downfall every time!

 

Ok, first if all, thanks for the info you have provided. Second of all, stop being a dick dude. Yours was a GRAND CHEROKEE, this is a Cherokee, notice that I didn't type "Grand" in front of that?

This is anything but a rigged together job... sensors... no big deal if you think outside the box. I am not removing the GM sensors, Im just adding the Jeep sensors. For oil pressure: you get the older style oil bypass part that goes on the oil pan. It has an undrilled port in it; so you drill it out and tap it to 1/8" NPT and there you go. That's where the jeep oil sender goes. As far as water temp... smaller sensors with a 1/4" NPT thread can be modified to fit in the passenger side head, I did that on my last 6.0 swap (into an FJ-40) and it worked like a charm. However, the Jeep sender is 1/2" NPT, and was too big. I made a tube to fit in the Upper radiator hose that has the steam line return built into it, as well as a port for the Jeep temp sender. Now, the temp my not be 100% accurate until the thermostat opens, but it really doesn't matter sense it is only running the gauge.

The one piece of advice that I like is to check and make sure that stuff is getting power during start. I haven't checked that, so that's the first thing I will do on Monday morning when I get back to the shop. It is possible that I grabbed the wrong wire coming out of the Jeep ignition switch. If so, no big deal to fix. Currently, all the injectors and coils are getting power with the key on (and the coils have the ground too), but like I said, I am not sure what happens when the key is in start position.

I have a buddy that works at another shop and he brought over their scan tool last night to see if everything was functioning. IT WAS! the computer showed all the codes for things we are getting rid of such as EVAP, BCM, brake controller, etc. However, it also had a "lost connection with TCM" code. I quickly discovered that the LAN wires coming from the TCM are not hooked up to the PCM anymore sense some of the other modules are missing. No big deal at all to fix, I just need to hook them back up and solder them in.

And by the way... I already knew that it would have to be tuned... We are getting rid of all of the emissions stuff, plus it has a few performance upgrades that will yield more performance with a new tune. This isn't my first LS swap, just my first GTO LS swap haha.

Anyway, thanks again for the help, I will check the ignition switch power wiring when I get back to it.

 

Well... I checked the wiring and it was wrong. It was hooked up to a wire that only had power during run, not start and run. So I fixed that and still nothing. Coils still aren't firing. I also hooked up the "crank voltage" wire from C1 connector to the start position on the switch, and the "accessory voltage" wire from the C1 connector up to the accessory side of the ignition switch. I don't know. I am pretty positive that I have everything hooked up right as the computer seems to be functioning 100% correctly, but still no coil signals. I am going to have the VATS turned off by the tuner hopefully tomorrow evening, so I guess I'll know then.

 

Ok... so just so everybody knows... on some GM computers, the VATS can and will kill fuel AND FIRE! Took it and had it tuned today and it fired right up after VATS was gone. So, for those that disagreed with me and had me worrying sick, you were wrong. Lol. No, seriously, Im just glad it all worked. But for future reference, keep this in mind.

 

Glad you got it figured out man, good job!