Slowmo_Bird94

Actually, I am researching Muncie and super T-10 transmissions. I am pretty much set on a manual. Not needing an adapter will cut a good $300-400 out of my budget that will be useful for other parts. I will just have to figure out what clutch parts I will need. If anyone knows the parts to go between a 3rd gen Chevy motor and the SBC style trans feel free to chime in.

As for the front axle, someone on jeepforum.com informed me about the DJ5 postal Jeep, which is a 2wd setup. If that won't work I will just leave the front axle there as mentioned by Pocket.

The rear end will most likely be a 12 bolt. I am fairly sure that a 3/4 ton truck rear will hold just fine. If not it will be built to withstand a nuke. I know the pinion is stronger because the shaft is 1.625 compared to 1.313 on the 9 bolt.

SSilver

check out http://www.novak-adapt.com/

they have just about everything you need and a lot of good reading. Novak also has a hydraulic clutch conversion which is what I went with and it's definitely worth the extra cash. My clutch feels like something out of a new car.

welldonecj7

iTrader: (13)

Yea if you are going to go with a 2wd set up then you do not need to worry about the transfer case adapter like you had said, thus saving money. The postal jeep one should work fine if you want just a straight tube to go in place of your front axle, if not just keep your factory one like you said, if you are really worried about weight you can strip the axles and the ring and pinion out and save some weight. The other thing that you have to think about is bolt pattern, going with a 12 bolt will most likely end up causing front and rear to be different lug patterns, not that this would be huge deal but just fyi. I wasn't saying that the 12 bolt is not a good rear but with jeeps you will see a 9 inch or dana 60 more often, but if you have a good sorce to get a cheap 12 bolt it would would good too.

Slowmo_Bird94

I thought custom axles meant a custom lug pattern option. Am I wrong? Obviously the 12 bolt will have to be cut down and I will need custom axles to go with that.

As for the hydraulic clutch, I kind of enjoy the old rough and tough gotta push it down feeling. If I had the money laying around I might do it, but right now I have to work hard for the money.

welldonecj7

iTrader: (13)

I guess i was thinking you were going to be leaving the 12bolt long, yea if you are getting the rear narrowed you can get axles in the 5 on 5.5 that was factory for the jeep.

Slowmo_Bird94

That works for me.

Bad news... The distributor in my Firebird is definitely going out. On top of that, the timing chain and clutch need to be replaced in my '91 Nissan truck. There goes about $500 for buying the Jeep. If I can fix the car and sell it I will be in good shape, but if not I am looking at next year before I can start this project.

SqwkVFR

iTrader: (2)

I'm currently in the middle of putting a warmed 5.3 in my 2003 TJ. Previously had a TPI 383 / 700R4 in an '83 CJ-7. Also have a 64 CJ-5 in the garage waiting to be resto-modded. The 83 with a TPI 383 / 700R4 / 4.11 axles and 33's would pull both front tires up in 2wd on dry pavement. My 2003 4.0 I6 from the factory can get a little light under the driver front wheel if you try hard enough..... I have no doubts that the 5.3 / 4L60 will pull the fronts up. As for the early CJ-5.. Any LS will pull the wheels up. The early CJ-5 has a wheelbase thats a couple inches shorter than the later ones, which were 10 inches shorter than my CJ-7 and wrangler. The early jeep also has either high 4.xx gears or lower. Mine has 5.38's from the factory. An LS swap is doable, but tight fit in the early jeeps. A T-56 is longer than the jeep trans and T-case together. Don't bother. Auto trans about the same deal. Save maybe a TH350. The trans and Tcase are both all iron and easily up to the task of LS power. Especially in a rig that'll be under 3K lbs. The Axles may need upgrading however. The rear is a 10spline Dana44. Should take some abuse. Add a lift and bigger tires with the LSx and it's toast. The front is a closed knuckle Dana 27. Not going to take much to break with an LSx. Keep in mind with the narrow track width, and both pumpkins being offset behind the Dana 18 t-case that nothing else will bolt up. As for a 'glass body tub. I'd pass. Get a steel one from W-O made from the original stampings.

Novak has great info. Lead times on products can take a while.
advance adapters has great info and swap pieces as well.

check out earlycj5.com........

my $.02

Slowmo_Bird94

Well, for one it is going to stay stock height and maybe a 28ish" street tire. It is all I will need. If anything I would like to drop it an inch to help with the drive shaft angle with the longer 4 speed. The drive shaft is 22" long in the rear stock. If I add a 3" longer transmission the angle will be quite steep. I would probably have to have custom leafs made for me to achieve a small drop, but there may not be room for the axle to travel up much more than stock travel.

If that T90 transmission was to break, what is the mot likely thing to go? The gears or a shaft maybe? I know I can get every art for that transmission.

SqwkVFR

iTrader: (2)

Only problem I've had with the T90 was shift forks. Driveshafts and axles will break first. Lowering a Jeep is just wrong..... Sorry. If you want to help driveshaft angle, do a motor mount lift, and a spacer in the transfer case skid plate to lower the rear of the trans.

Slowmo_Bird94

Raising the motor about an inch was something that I had not thought about. I know lowering a jeep is not the norm... but I got the idea because I saw one. It shocked me a bit, but then I realized that it wasn't too bad looking on the older body. It's not like I want to drag frame on this thing either... THAT would be wrong.

Slowmo_Bird94

Well, I couldn't swing the money for the Jeep. I am probably going to sell my 4th gen Formula for a 3rd gen Camaro. Anyone want to trade? I am in FL.