LSx to SN-95 advise needed
LSx to SN-95 advise needed First off, let me say that I am sure glad I found this board, tons of great info here. I’m considering a LSx swap into a SN95 mustang. I have zero background with either, never owned a mustang of any vintage and have only performed routine maintenance on my 2000 Chevy truck with the 5.3. I’m really starting from scratch here (my background is with LC2's).
Goal:
Fast & fun street car that can be used as a daily driver. Stock appearing interior with a/c, heat, and the standard power accessories. This car needs to have good street manners so my wife can hop in, turn the key and drive off (woman driver who doesn’t know what any of the gauges do).
Initial questions:
1)Are there any significant differences between the v-6 & v-8 SN95’s that should be considered when shopping for a donor vehicle? Obviously the 6 bangers can be picked up cheap, cheap, cheap but do they have weak suspensions, rear ends, fuel systems….. compared to the v-8 cars?
2)K-members. Sounds like there are a couple of aftermarket tubular k-members that have good write-ups but is it necessary to swap out the stocker given the number of oil pan choices now available?
3) Are there any notorious issues with the SN-95’s that should be observed when looking at a potential donor car?
Goal:
Fast & fun street car that can be used as a daily driver. Stock appearing interior with a/c, heat, and the standard power accessories. This car needs to have good street manners so my wife can hop in, turn the key and drive off (woman driver who doesn’t know what any of the gauges do).
Initial questions:
1)Are there any significant differences between the v-6 & v-8 SN95’s that should be considered when shopping for a donor vehicle? Obviously the 6 bangers can be picked up cheap, cheap, cheap but do they have weak suspensions, rear ends, fuel systems….. compared to the v-8 cars?
2)K-members. Sounds like there are a couple of aftermarket tubular k-members that have good write-ups but is it necessary to swap out the stocker given the number of oil pan choices now available?
3) Are there any notorious issues with the SN-95’s that should be observed when looking at a potential donor car?
I'm starting a swap on my 1997 Cobra. I'm basically in the same boat and still in the learning/research phase.
For the K member I would suggest the AJE. Your other option is to use any of the 4.6L Kmembers and just modify the motor mounts.
There isn't any major differences in the V6 to V8 cars. The rear end will be the biggest one. The V8's have the better 8.8". If you find a car with out the passive anti-theft, you might have an easier time with some of the wiring.
As far as issues to watch, they don't seem to be as bad as the foxes for rotting out, but I have seen a number of them rot on the strut towers right at the frame rail in the engine bay.
For the K member I would suggest the AJE. Your other option is to use any of the 4.6L Kmembers and just modify the motor mounts.
There isn't any major differences in the V6 to V8 cars. The rear end will be the biggest one. The V8's have the better 8.8". If you find a car with out the passive anti-theft, you might have an easier time with some of the wiring.
As far as issues to watch, they don't seem to be as bad as the foxes for rotting out, but I have seen a number of them rot on the strut towers right at the frame rail in the engine bay.
"The V8's have the better 8.8". If you find a car with out the passive anti-theft, you might have an easier time with some of the wiring."
Now this is the kind of info I'm looking for, thanks Shane.
Next dumb question, what is the passive anti-theft and how do you know if a car has it?
Now this is the kind of info I'm looking for, thanks Shane.
Next dumb question, what is the passive anti-theft and how do you know if a car has it?
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
passive anti-theft is also known as "PATS". This is the ford factory installed security system, and it happens to be very a very good one, which is why you don't want a car that has it. The easyiest way to tell quickly if the car has it is to look at the ignition key and see if it has a small computer chip on the top (black, not the actually key side) of the key. It will be most likely covered by a small panel, but you'll be able to see it easily enough. If you don't have this panel or chip, then the car doesn't have PATS.
Just finished swap in a 96 v6...
Things to consider:
96-04 have 4.6 k members
4.6 mounts can be easily modified and work perfectly
351 swap headers work with ls1 flanges
gt's have the stronger 8.8"
stock gauges can be easily adapted to be fully functional even the check eng light
There's lots of info out there. Try a google search. There's an extensive thread on here with a 96 gt. Should be withing the first three pages.
Things to consider:
96-04 have 4.6 k members
4.6 mounts can be easily modified and work perfectly
351 swap headers work with ls1 flanges
gt's have the stronger 8.8"
stock gauges can be easily adapted to be fully functional even the check eng light
There's lots of info out there. Try a google search. There's an extensive thread on here with a 96 gt. Should be withing the first three pages.
Inbred, do ALL 96-04's have the 4.6 k-member (even the v-6 cars)? If this is the case than I'll rule out the 94-95 models. I like the idea of an oem k-member vs. a tubular since this car will be driven almost daily.
Sounds like you're saying that a v-6 car is an ideal candidate with only 1 exception, the rear. Is this correct? If so, I'm sure the rear could be swapped out much cheaper than the difference in price between starting with a 6 vs. 8 cylinder car. Looks like a guy can pick up a 6 banger in nice condition for just a couple grand.
Sounds like you're saying that a v-6 car is an ideal candidate with only 1 exception, the rear. Is this correct? If so, I'm sure the rear could be swapped out much cheaper than the difference in price between starting with a 6 vs. 8 cylinder car. Looks like a guy can pick up a 6 banger in nice condition for just a couple grand.
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Verdad Gallardo Inbred, do ALL 96-04's have the 4.6 k-member (even the v-6 cars)? If this is the case than I'll rule out the 94-95 models. I like the idea of an oem k-member vs. a tubular since this car will be driven almost daily.
Sounds like you're saying that a v-6 car is an ideal candidate with only 1 exception, the rear. Is this correct? If so, I'm sure the rear could be swapped out much cheaper than the difference in price between starting with a 6 vs. 8 cylinder car. Looks like a guy can pick up a 6 banger in nice condition for just a couple grand.
Sounds like you're saying that a v-6 car is an ideal candidate with only 1 exception, the rear. Is this correct? If so, I'm sure the rear could be swapped out much cheaper than the difference in price between starting with a 6 vs. 8 cylinder car. Looks like a guy can pick up a 6 banger in nice condition for just a couple grand.
Only big difference is the rear like you said.....
If you are mechanicaly inclined and have the tools, i.e. welder, grinder....you can keep it on a budget by using a stock k member and modifying some 351 swap headers. but itll be much much easier to buy an AJE k and some dynatech headers for a simple drop in. But theyll set you back about <$1000
It just depends how much youre willing to spend and how much fabrication youre able to do.
same goes for harness. You can either modify your own, or buy a prefabbed unit with tuned pcm for $500 on ebay.
It adds up real quick.
My build started as a budget swap, and now im at about 6-7k into it. But finally about 99% done with it.
read above please
^^ Good info. I can modify my own harness (I used to do them on the side for extra $$. Stayed backed up for 3 years. Probably did 100 of them), have a copy of HPTuners, have a TIG welder and can fab up basically anything. I friend just got a nice sn95 roller and he wants me to help. Eventhough I'm pretty sure I can build motor mounts (I've only seen pics of the stock subframe through a pic he texted me), make the headers, and make the harness, the only issue I'm worried about is the PATS system. I don't know how Ford incorporated this into the chassis. I assume it won't be a problem, but can anyone verify that for me.
I would personally choose a 96-98 GT based on a couple things. The V8 cars have the 150mph speedo, better suspension and the 8.8 rear as already mentioned. The interior is better than the V6 car too with things such as leather steering wheel and better seats. Be aware however the seats in a 99 up GT are like sitting on a metal fold-up chair if you have to be in it for more than a few miles. I bought my wife a new GT in '01 and we got rid of it when it only had 9000 miles because it was so uncomfortable. And that was after she had put 150,000 miles on a '95 GT with no complaints on comfort....
Update! Picked up a nice, 1 owner 95 cobra this weekend. Its bone stock and sloooooo, seems like it can't get out of its own way. Time to start researching and buying parts.
New question, will the 4.6 k-member bolt into this car or am I forced into using a tubular?
New question, will the 4.6 k-member bolt into this car or am I forced into using a tubular?
