REALLY! Thats news! What motor mounts and what stands are you using? This is a first gen camaro right? Now I'm liking the edelbrock set up even more!

 

It's a 67 Camaro that originally had a 327 in it. I'm not sure on the stands, I'll have to check them out tonight. Anyone have the link to the difference in stands handy so I can be sure which ones I have?

 

Awesome! Thanks for the info flyinsquirel! That's the same set up I had on my camaro. I'm not sure but I think that those cars had the "short" stands unless it was a big block or unless someone changed them out at some time. If you have pics of the fitment, please share. You can pm me and i'll give you my e-mail.

 

Interesting...I've heard this before, but I have Hooker plates & headers and they fit with much more room than I've heard described here. I'm wondering if you and others had a version which is older.
Mine are 3 years old now.
The literature which accompanies Hooker plates says that they "put the engine in the exact position as the stock small block" (related to the firewall). Photos of my old 350 seem to prove this.
There was no mod required to stock F-body oil pan, either.

 

I agree gmag, your pics look like there is ample room between engine and firewall. I'm learning that not all cars are built the same, especially when we're talking an inch or so.

 

Here's a link to "stands" and mounts info. The link sends you page 5 of "Our detailed swap into a 67 Camaro" Begin with post #81. Also, see page 4/begin at post #78.
thanks to 67rsss & Rodder...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-camaro-5.html

 

Great reference on the stands (I'm stuck reading this at work), thanks gMAG!

 

Here are some pics of my setup
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

I'm pretty certain mine are the low performance frame stands. My original engine even had the cable restraint on it as mentioned here, http://www.pozziracing.com/camaro_engine.htm

As you can see I'm pretty close to the firewall, but at least I didn't have to notch out the pan. The cross link is close, but not too close. It clears throughout the entire range of steering. Yep, I know, poly mounts are stronger, but I'm not looking to feel every turn of the engine through the floor. If I have trouble with breaking the cheapie stock style ones I'll look into getting the short frame stands and some poly mounts. Until then.....

Hope this helps.

 

The reason why the engine sits or looks closer to the firewall with 1" setback.. or that you have to move the Trans forward without the 1" set back plates..

1) If the Transmission / bell housing flange it at the same location as was the original TH350/TH400/M4, etc
and
2) 1" set back plates are used to moves the engine to the location of where the Trans Bell housing is location originally..

Now you have remember that the Gen III/IV is about 1" shorter than a SBC, The lost of the 1" is at the Rear of the engine Flange to Bell housing part of the block.. GM shorten the block by removing just about 1".
That is also the reason that the bolt hole at the 2 o'clock location can not be used because it will breach the water jacket or Cylinder bore if you try to drill/tap the location.

And why the engine Looks closer to the fire wall, cause it is, for the most part (heads and cylinders) LOL !

 

Flyinsquirel you are amazing!! These pictures/information are exactly what I've been looking for I found a place locally where I can purchase the edelbrock set up for a reasonable price and I figured that edelbrock is local to me anyway so if I have problems I can always drive over and talk to tech or return if things don't work out like I thought they would. I am curious to see how these headers fit and clear steering box. If you install headers, please keep me posted. Do you have part number on the ruber motor mounts? I'd like to go the same route also as I don't want the vibrations, I'm going solid on the subframe mounts already... Thanks again and keep us posted on those headers

 

Not to Highjack the thread, but it seem that my question and the answers I get might help all.

Has anyone mesaured the angle of the Trans output shaft in comparison to the top of the Subframe, next to where the Trans Crossmember bolts on to..? And Yes I know the Frame may not be perfectly in line, but it sure will help to know that I am in the Ball park !

I have placed my engine in the subframe (not attached to the body). I put the subframe level (0 Degree) and then temporary set the tilt of the Engine/Trans between 3-5 degree down... I have not welded up the tab on the Crossmember yet.. I am just mocking it up for now and want to get it in the ball park. Which is why I am asking.

I will do the final adjustment of the output and the Rear Pinon angles once the car is back on the ground and weighted (also taking into consideratin of the car / body tilting itself).

I've attached a few pictures of my setup so far.. I fab'd up my Plates looking at Edelbrock's (using Guess-a-ments from pictures and asking on the forum) I am also using Edelbrock Headers. I think I got them close enough (LOL)

I will start a Build Thread later once I get a bit more down the road on the build and get my pictures up on Photobucket.

BC

 

Flyin Squirl have you put those headers on yet??? Just curious about clearance with steering box and how well they tuck under car:-)

 

These are hookers into a 68 camaro with + or -1" adjustable plates.
You want the tall frame mounts or "hats" and some engine mounts that have slots in them versus holes to give you some play.

You have to put the engine about 1/2-1" from the firewall (I think this is the most rearward setting on the plates but dont qoute me) but this gives you plenty of room in front for a nice radiator and cold air intake.

Only problem is the Alt is darn low and I might have to shave it a bit.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/

 

For anyone considering hookers, holleyperformance on ebay lists a new set every week or so, and some end at odd hours (good for bidders). I got mine for $220 after ebates and ebay bucks. I've seen them end as low as $202 and as high as $330 though. They come with the gaskets, O2 extensions and all that stuff as well. I'm hoping to test fit them when my other motor mount comes in. Just throwing it out there since it is potentially so cheap.

 

Thanks for the pics! I've been researching your build for a minute now. Currently I'm replacing floor pans so I'm on "pause" for the installation of the subframe/LS1 into the car. Thanks again for sending the pics. I know I'll have questions later for sure! Are you using a stock pan?

 

I did not find these on e-bay for the 67 camaros. Thanks for the tip, I'll hope they show up sometime soon. How do you get "e-bucks" and "e-bates"? Sounds like a plan to me

 

If you mean my car, 68 camaro, I tried a few oil pans, L92 stock, GM hummer pan, etc. Ended up ponying up for a custom "Retro LSX pan" pan. Take a look at the sticky for oil pans on the top of this board. Its pretty good.

Lowest priced that would have worked is probably S&P, where you send your pan in and they send you a notched one back.

 

Sorry, my fault. I was thinking chevelle, seeing bczees avatar threw me off, though I *think* they have camaro as well.
Anyway, ebates is just ebates.com, I have referral link but I'm not going for that. Basically you just sign up and go through that site to get to other stores, then every 60 days or something you get a % back. I've gotten a couple hundred bucks back so far on things I'd buy anyway so I figure why not. Ebay bucks is just something they let you sign up for from time to time that gives you 2 or 3% back in the form of credit on ebay.

 

Sorry about that, I am starting my 71 Nova, which has the same sub frame as the 1st Gen F-Body (Camaro/Firebird). Guess once I get the Nova finish, I will have to update my Avatar with both cars.

I've started to upload my pictures to photobucket and hope to start my thread soon, but like the project, it keeps getting put onthe back burner..

BC

 

make sure it clears when you turn all the way left and right, mine didn,t