The transmission looks normal to me. You will usually find some residual clutch disc material in the very bottom.

I can't tell from the picture, but if that isn't a drain plug in the bottom of the pan, now is a good time to install one.

Also take your body hammer and dolly and hammer the flange around the bolt holes on the pan. They typically can get slightly distorted which compromises your gasket sealing.

Doug

 

Nice tip! I always did this with the gen I stamped valve covers, no reason not to apply the same trick here! I'll be sure to do this to my TH350 when I pull the pan to add a plug. Thanks!

 

Clint... why the v-band setup? Are you headed the direction I think you're headed?

Also, did you see my reply to your question over at Steve's re: VA condensor hard lines?

Also, I pitched my beauty cover. I like the idea of running the wiring underneath it, and it shouldn't be a problem. That being said, I ran the wiring along/slightly underneath the fuel rails. It is fairly clean (though not as so as your proposed setup would be), though I still have the coil and MAF wiring running along the passenger side.

 

I really like how low profile those band clamps are. They make for a clean, tucked installation and for the price you could buy new if you don't want to reuse them. I felt V-band would give a more reliable seal and make R&R easier.

I think the only difference really is that I would have to pull off the fuel rail and retuck the wiring when it goes back on. It's not ideal, but I don't think I'd be pulling the intake often. If I swap to a different intake (TVS?) down the road I would have to rewire or at least reroute things.

Thanks Doug for the feedback. The pan does have a drain plug but no magnet. I checked the pan rails against a straight edge and they are in good shape. The only thing it doesn't have is a magnet - I'll look into adding one.

There wont be any turbochargers attached down there; I just wanted a reliable seal that was easy to take apart and put back together. I was considering ball & socket connections, but after talking with a few people I decided this would be the most reliable connection.[/quote]

Thanks for the reply! I hadn't seen that. I don't think notifications are working right for me on SNS. I'll go check it.

I plan to run the DBW and MAP wiring down the front of the engine, behind the waterpump to meet up with all the lower wiring (knock sensors, crank, cam, etc) and exit near the alternator to meet up with the ECM on radiator support. The MAF wiring will run on the under side of the cold air intake tube and meet up with the same branch. At the rear of the engine, the coil wiring will be behind the intake along the firewall, meeting up with the injector and oil pressure sender wiring. That bundle will run behind the master cylinder and inside the fender on the driver's side up to the ECM on the radiator support. I think for the most part the wiring will be hidden. I guess we'll see what I come up with. I have all the terminals, crimpers, and wire now so it's just a matter of getting some things checked off the list before I start wiring.

The brown truck has been stopping at my house just about every day the last week or so. In addition to wiring components and v-bands, I have a PA-4 pump and prefabbed recess tray from Tanks Inc, corvette FPR from ebay, power steering hose components from anplumbing, Denso O2 sensors and screw-down MAP sensor from Rockauto, premade aluminum spacers for the coils from widgetco, and the list goes on. I have a bunch of other stuff yet to order like the fuel fittings and line (plan to use ni-terne steel hardlines w/ Russell fittings & hose), and wire loom (not sure what I'll use yet), ac condensor, and VSS. I need to decide what electric fans I want to use (thinking Mark IV or Taurus if the dimensions work).

A lot of the work lately has been figuring out what components I need and shopping around for the best deals/packages. It's insane how much work that takes.

Goal is to have the car running by my 30th birthday in July.

 

Regarding the V-band clamps I have not found them any cheaper than those you saw on Summit. I was thinking about using them myself but I will have to keep the ground clearance in mind.

 

That seems to be the hardest part! You are right on time consumption. My wife asked me if I would have married her or LS1Tech if I had it to do all over again! Tough choices for sure!


Damn man! Make someone feel old why don't ya, lol! 41 in June

 

This build is great. Lots of pics and explanations. Truly a credit to this place!

I enjoyed all 36.5 pages

Subscribed!

 

If Clint did it right, he would have only needed 6 pages of build thread..

 

Check E-Bay for the V-band clamps, have built several exhaust systems with them and no problems, I get the stainless ones......

 

What he said. This could have been done two years ago.

Not a lot to report, but here is a power steering hose going together. First step is cutting to length. I used an abrasive chop saw for this after wrapping with tape.



The inside of the fitting has a left-hand thread for holding the outside of the hose. With the fitting in a vise it isn't hard to thread the hose in by hand.





Then the end of the fitting can be lubed and threaded into place. It is righthand thread.





Here's how it routes.









This is XRP black braided -6 power steering hose (marked Aeroquip) with a few Earls -6 power steering hose ends. I used an 11/16-18 inverted flare adapter at the power steering box and a metric 16mm-1.5 adapter at the pump. The hose braiding is not what I was hoping for; it is fuzzy. A plain old hydraulic hose would have been fine. I called the hydraulic shop and the fittings were all about the same price, but I would have saved some coin on the hose and I could have had crimped ends. Oh well.

 

Not to be a drag but.. what's the max. operating pressure of that hose? Noticed it has a rubber inner lining.. which leads me to believe it's some of hte 250psi stuff? The standard P/S hose used for custom application is the braided Russell Powerflex stuff that has a teflon inner lining, I believe the operating pressure for that stuff is 1250 or 1500psi or something like that. Highly recommend checking the hose specs before proceeding even tho they claim it's "power steering" hose!

 

Clint, what are you doing for the Return hose on the PS/Tank.. ?.. I have been trying to figure out what to do on that plastic barb..

I know some have grinded down the barb and used a compression fitting.. I was thinking of trying that to complete a all AN fitting and hose..

BC

 

FYI - I have seen many cutoff the plastic barb and insert an NPT to -6 adapter. In fact I did it on my previous build and well, let just say it leaked and was very fragile. I ended up buying an all aluminum Canton reservoir with a -6an bung installed.

 

Nice work, but I was also wondering what the spec were on the hose. If you have to redo it, ans since you have the room you may also want to consider added little length to it to get it away from the headers.

 

The XRP catalog says this is rated to 2250psi. It has braided steel imbedded in the rubber.

I will be bending some aluminum hard lines for the return line going to a cooler up front. There will be short lengths of rubber at the box, cooler, and pump. The barb on the reservoir should hold a 3/8 hose. It should be low pressure going into the tank so I'm not worried about using AN.

 

Clint,
Great work as usual.

 

You might be able to drill it out and use a dry sump/tank AN/JIC fitting from Redhorse Performance P/N 8832-06-2. This looks like a bulkhead fitting with washers on either side to form the seal. It may not seal well against the plastic housing though. I've seen other water tank fittings with different seal designs, but none that go to AN - you could probably braze something together.

 

lol, it is a lot more fun this way though

Just not as easy on the wallet or patience. lol

 

bczee, Clint... I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to do. The return line is low pressure - just run standard trans soft line or something. Or am I missing something?

 

I am using soft line but some people have an AN fetish.