BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

Yes, this car had the factory steering box and stock front clip.

pimpdulla

iTrader: (-1)

I hope the prices are going to be reasonable????

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

Our 1 3/4" long tube headers are $669.00
Our 1 3/4" stepped to 1 7/8" long tube headers are $799.00

They come ceramic coated in either silver or our NEW Black Maxx ceramic coating. The Black Maxx is a satin black HI-TEMP ceramic coating.

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

They are working to have the first run ready to order next week, as soon as they give me the go-ahead I'll post it up

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

We will be discussing that next week, I'll know more mid-week.

NovaKid

I read this whole thread and maybe I missed something, but these headers aren't just for stock clips right? I have a TCI front clip in my 63 nova and I'm looking to get some long tube headers for my LS6.

Just a few more questions though: Will the stock LS starters work with your headers or do I need to buy a mini starter for them to clear? Also, do the collector flanges come welded on?

I'm glad someone else is starting to make these! More competition is definitely a good thing! I thought I would have to go with S&P's shorty headers for around the same price as what BRP is charging for the long tube headers. I'm sure CBR stuff is very well made, but I couldn't bring myself to pay what they're asking.

I'll have to mention this to a buddy of mine that's doing the same thing with an LS2.

More than likely, I'll be ordering a 4L60E crossmember too.

Thanks guys!

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

At this point we only tried it with the stock front clip.

It clears the stock starter. We do not install flanges on the collector, our headers come as a slip fit. We suggest using the wide stainless band clamps so that you have extra ground clearance.

Thank you, we are trying to keep all of our kits & headers competitively priced. We are also very pround to say that all of our products are made in the USA.


Don't forget that we are offering free shipping on all orders placed by the end of the year.

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Do you have a picture of the drivers side installed? It does not appear that it will clear the steering rod on a clip or otherwise, as the #1 tube needs to turn back towards, and under the #3 tube, just about where the #3 plug is.......

T,

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

The headers wont work with aftermarket front steer racks, sorry.

67 church

Being that we only deal with the Nova's people have been asking me questions about your conversion headers...

...will a customer be able to purchase just the headers and not the motor mounts etc, etc,?

Meaning do your engine mounts raise, lower or move the engine side to side. The question is if the customer has already installed aftermarket mounts and need headers do they have to buy the completed mounting system from you guys?

Thanks,

greasemonkeychef

iTrader: (6)

Great question Chuck!

I would like to know this before I make a choice. I have also talked to another maker who is exploring the idea of making a header fit in the stcok subframe.

From what I have read the coating is the expensive part of the headers? Is there any truth to that and what benifits does the coating give you? Can or do people use headers without coating? I think the cheap ones from CSK are un coated correct. I am just looking for ways to save money for us VERY low budget guys. Maybe you can even coat headers at a later time when money permits but get yourself on the road without it?

Sorry if this is stupid question!

LS1 TJ

Great question on the coating.

Why do they have to be coated? Depending on the application dings or slight changes may be needed that ruins the coating.

Is there a large amount of margin in the coating cost?

I asked the same thing from Dynatech with a "that's the way we sell it" comment.

Just my .02

67 church

With the project that anyone has going, and with respect to the LS engine, let me just say that "There is only one way to do it".....and that is to do it correctly! There has to be an understanding that if you do a build up driven solely by cost and only doing it on the cheap, it is inevitable that you are going to cut corners that you will wish you hadn't when it is all said and done. I think it was said at one point.....if you don't have the money to do it correctly then wait and save up. It cost more money than you can imagine to cheap out on the first go around to only find that you have to do it all over again with even more cost involved.

Hang with me for a minute I'm getting to my point and your concerns. If you ask any header manufacture they will tell you that the coated headers are the only way to go. An uncoated set will not last long enough for you to feel like you got your money worth, then you are spending money again, except this time you would get the coating, now you payed more than what it would have cost initially.

The coatings serve to protect your investment from rusting out. Sure you don't drive in bad weather and you keep it clean.....well they will rust from the inside out. How do I know? I've been there and done that....never again!

It was mentioned that dings and alterations might need to be made, so the coatings would then be messed up. This should not be an issue. If the headers are made correctly and installed with the proper mounts etc.etc. they will and should fit like a glove without any dings or alterations.

Lets face it if you are putting an LS into an old Nova you are the type of person who likes upgrades.....it will not stop with the engine. You will be so impressed with its performance that you will start to look at the whole car as a complete package. It would probably serve you better to say that you have a "Cost Conscious Build" rather than to label it as a Low Budget deal. Sure you want to get the most of your money so that you can spend the proper money the first time and have to never look back and have to re-do anything.

Bottom line it makes better money sense to get the coatings on the headers than to look for the cheapest vendor. Do it right the first time and you will be a ton happier in the long run.

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

They can be ordered without the coating, but we do not stock uncoated headers. They are about $100 cheaper then the coated headers.

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

We have not tried the headers on a car with adapter plates, but we will be trying this when the car gets back since we've had this question asked a few times now. Looking at pictures we've found online and the position of oil pan it looks like it might work, but I won't know for sure for a couple weeks.

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

We were not able to build a mid-length set of header for the car, we tried a few different options but it's just too tight to get a mid-length in there.

greasemonkeychef

iTrader: (6)

THank you for the response. I had thought I heard somewhere that the coating was closer to the $200 range on headers?


I am interested in seeing if other mounts/plates will still work with BRP headers too.

Chuck! Yes I hear what you are saying. Do it right or dont do it at all. I even change my thread on steves. I personally do understand the coating thing but on the other hand how long does a header company stand by there coatings????? WOuld they recoat if you have a issue years later? I have run the cheap headers back in high school for 5+ years and never had a issue with rust. If I did for the price I paid I would not complain if I had to replace them every 5+ years. I also used that vehicle as a DD. Most of are projects are just weekend rides if that. Its not about the doing it right or wrong. In my case it the difference of maybe buying a harness and headers at the same time and being on the road. Or just buying one and still saving and not driving. To each there own. As I get older my outlook changes but for the time being I would like to be on the road. Hope I expressed my point without sounding stupid

67 church

Thank you for the reply. So what you are saying is that you did not move the engine left or right to center it in the engine bay? Or raise/lower it?

67 church

Your point is spoken well. I think what I'm trying to say is that it seems like everyone wants a custom, non cookie cutter product for the price of a postage stamp. BRP is developing something that is not like any other combination on the planet, sometimes it takes a little more coin than expected to make the project worth its while.

So if these are the cats meow then it would be best to protect the investment with a nice coating. Which should last a very long time. I have some that have been around for over 15 years and they are still in top notch shape. Prior to doing so I had to replace them every other year.

BRPhotrods

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the delay, but since Atlanta can't figure out how to clear snow off the roads we've been enjoying the time off with our kids. We don't compare our engine placement with that of a stock engine, so I don't know if it's in the smae location. Now with that said we are going to install the mock-up engine with plates just to see how it would change and to see if the headers will work. Then we are hoping to be able to tell you guys the plates will work (or which offset).