I want a build thread too....'63 Chevy II Wagon.
10-19-2013, 09:54 PM
#181
7/31/2013:
I ended up making two axle tabs for the upper link bars because the ones that came with the kit didn't fit well. The 'large tabs' have a radius way too large for the axle tube. Pics......
Here's the tabs that come in the kit. The bolt is not parallel to the tube and the tabs would need lots of grinding to get them to fit the tube well. And yes, I've tried switching them front to back, side to side, every way possible
Made a template and got out the 3/16" plate...
The new tab in...bolt is parallel and no huge gap...
Heres a comparison of the original tab vs the template...
Last test fit and tack...rearend has been centered, ride height set, and pinion angle triple checked...
And ready for final welding and paint...
I ended up making two axle tabs for the upper link bars because the ones that came with the kit didn't fit well. The 'large tabs' have a radius way too large for the axle tube. Pics......
Here's the tabs that come in the kit. The bolt is not parallel to the tube and the tabs would need lots of grinding to get them to fit the tube well. And yes, I've tried switching them front to back, side to side, every way possible
Made a template and got out the 3/16" plate...
The new tab in...bolt is parallel and no huge gap...
Heres a comparison of the original tab vs the template...
Last test fit and tack...rearend has been centered, ride height set, and pinion angle triple checked...
And ready for final welding and paint...
10-19-2013, 09:56 PM
#183
8/4/2013:
Ok...back to the shock bar...the fun part. Not sure if this is just a wagon problem or what but I did see one other member had to do the same mod and I assumed he just did not want to notch the two side brackets. Anyway...
The directions state to put the shock bar in at the point where both ends are tight against the frame rails (duh!)....well, when it is installed in that location, it sits directly above the pumpkin, and at the ride height they specify, all it will take is a good bump for the rearend to crash into the bar since there is only about 2.5" clearance. The other problem with the shock bar in that location is the top of the shocks are tipped so far forward, the springs are tight against the axle tubes. (I should have installed the shock bar after the control arms were in and this problem would have been obvious, but thats not the order they have you do it.)
In order to have clearance for everything, the shock bar had to be moved rearward 1.25" from where it was previously installed. No notches in the brackets were really needed
and now I have extra holes in the frame to boot. I had to add .100" spacers on each side (I bought .125" flat stock that measured thin) to make up the difference.
So now that the shock bar is in the proper location, everything is good. You can see the clearance between the pumpkin and the bar in the second pic down.
All that's left is to tighten all the bolts, build exhaust, and put the new fuel tank in. I'm not even sure I can get the wheels back on at full droop.
Ok...back to the shock bar...the fun part. Not sure if this is just a wagon problem or what but I did see one other member had to do the same mod and I assumed he just did not want to notch the two side brackets. Anyway...
The directions state to put the shock bar in at the point where both ends are tight against the frame rails (duh!)....well, when it is installed in that location, it sits directly above the pumpkin, and at the ride height they specify, all it will take is a good bump for the rearend to crash into the bar since there is only about 2.5" clearance. The other problem with the shock bar in that location is the top of the shocks are tipped so far forward, the springs are tight against the axle tubes. (I should have installed the shock bar after the control arms were in and this problem would have been obvious, but thats not the order they have you do it.)
In order to have clearance for everything, the shock bar had to be moved rearward 1.25" from where it was previously installed. No notches in the brackets were really needed
and now I have extra holes in the frame to boot. I had to add .100" spacers on each side (I bought .125" flat stock that measured thin) to make up the difference.So now that the shock bar is in the proper location, everything is good. You can see the clearance between the pumpkin and the bar in the second pic down.
All that's left is to tighten all the bolts, build exhaust, and put the new fuel tank in. I'm not even sure I can get the wheels back on at full droop.
10-19-2013, 09:58 PM
#184
8/16/2013:
Getting the tank ready. Went with the 255lph pump for possible future plans
Got all the fuel line parts yesterday..made a bracket that uses the holes I had previously drilled in the tank support for the aluminum tank bracket. Still some finishing to do to make it look a litle prettier, but it looks like everything will clear.
Worked on the tank hardlines until I got tired of trying to make them look like something
Tomorrow is cussing, sweating, and throwing tools...also known as making the braided lines that will go to the filter.
Little more progress on the filter mount.
Getting the tank ready. Went with the 255lph pump for possible future plans
Got all the fuel line parts yesterday..made a bracket that uses the holes I had previously drilled in the tank support for the aluminum tank bracket. Still some finishing to do to make it look a litle prettier, but it looks like everything will clear.
Worked on the tank hardlines until I got tired of trying to make them look like something
Tomorrow is cussing, sweating, and throwing tools...also known as making the braided lines that will go to the filter.
Little more progress on the filter mount.
10-19-2013, 09:59 PM
#185
8/24/2013:
Finished the tank lines, hope to finish the rest of the braided lines tonight. Put the filter bracket in..it's nice and sturdy
Excuse the flaking peeling gray undercoat. It'll all be removed someday...but til then...
Made the lines and finishing up the wiring. Then will start planning a heat shield and fit the crossflow muffler.
Finished the tank lines, hope to finish the rest of the braided lines tonight. Put the filter bracket in..it's nice and sturdy
Excuse the flaking peeling gray undercoat. It'll all be removed someday...but til then...
Made the lines and finishing up the wiring. Then will start planning a heat shield and fit the crossflow muffler.
10-19-2013, 10:01 PM
#186
9/5/2013:
Don't follow my lead on this one
I have the fuel lines backwards. The lesson is don't put the quick connect fittings on the filter to figure out the braided lines and never label or recheck which one is the pressure port and which one is the return.
I put the fittings on and forgot the 3/8" filter inlet is the top port...I was thinking the offset/top port was the 5/16" return this whole time. Doh. Center port is the return (5/16) offset port is the inlet (3/8). This would have been obvious had the quick connects not been on.
So, back to the drawing board to bend some new lines.
I guess better to see it now than after there's fuel in the tank
9/19/2013:
Alrighty then...back at it...just have to finish the wiring harness and put it in the car HOPEFULLY for the last time!
I scrapped the idea of using the braided lines off the filter because there was no nice way to re-route them where the filter is positioned and not have the hard lines be difficult to make. So, I decided to just bend some smaller/shorter hard lines...which have to be fairly precise so that the slip on Russel fittings don't get pulled at an angle or have tension on them once everything is tightened up.
The tank, filter, and wiring are all installed and removed as one unit...the wiring connections will be on the driver's side there by the filler inlet.
9/27/2013:
Haven't had much time to do anything on the car, but the tank is back in and I made a few brackets...what's them for?
The muffler will be behind the rearend and I thought it may be a good idea to make a heat shield to protect the tank and lines, so these will be the mounting brackets. More to follow, hopefully sooner than later. Maybe I can take it for a spin around the block before the snow flies
Don't follow my lead on this one
I have the fuel lines backwards. The lesson is don't put the quick connect fittings on the filter to figure out the braided lines and never label or recheck which one is the pressure port and which one is the return.
I put the fittings on and forgot the 3/8" filter inlet is the top port...I was thinking the offset/top port was the 5/16" return this whole time. Doh. Center port is the return (5/16) offset port is the inlet (3/8). This would have been obvious had the quick connects not been on.
So, back to the drawing board to bend some new lines.
I guess better to see it now than after there's fuel in the tank
9/19/2013:
Alrighty then...back at it...just have to finish the wiring harness and put it in the car HOPEFULLY for the last time!
I scrapped the idea of using the braided lines off the filter because there was no nice way to re-route them where the filter is positioned and not have the hard lines be difficult to make. So, I decided to just bend some smaller/shorter hard lines...which have to be fairly precise so that the slip on Russel fittings don't get pulled at an angle or have tension on them once everything is tightened up.
The tank, filter, and wiring are all installed and removed as one unit...the wiring connections will be on the driver's side there by the filler inlet.
9/27/2013:
Haven't had much time to do anything on the car, but the tank is back in and I made a few brackets...what's them for?
The muffler will be behind the rearend and I thought it may be a good idea to make a heat shield to protect the tank and lines, so these will be the mounting brackets. More to follow, hopefully sooner than later. Maybe I can take it for a spin around the block before the snow flies
10-19-2013, 10:02 PM
#187
10/2/2013:
I removed the exhaust midway between the y-pipe and the muffler that was on the car and used the pieces to build the new system. Still have to position the hangers, weld up the pieces, and paint it. The muffler is the SLP Dual/Dual...had this same muffler on two different SSs I owned and really liked the sound. The muffler will get wire brushed and cleaned up once all the other stuff is done.
There are a few areas of the piping that will get cut out and have a recessed filler piece put in for more clearance around certain things.
I removed the exhaust midway between the y-pipe and the muffler that was on the car and used the pieces to build the new system. Still have to position the hangers, weld up the pieces, and paint it. The muffler is the SLP Dual/Dual...had this same muffler on two different SSs I owned and really liked the sound. The muffler will get wire brushed and cleaned up once all the other stuff is done.
There are a few areas of the piping that will get cut out and have a recessed filler piece put in for more clearance around certain things.
10-19-2013, 10:04 PM
#188
10/16/2013:
One hanger in..woohoo, big progress These are walker parts made for the rear mufflers of a c4 vette..total of both pieces was only about $10. I'll have one more located near on each tailpipe.
I'm thinking I might redo this intermediate pipe next year since it's made up of so many pieces..get rid of the boogery welds and make it just nicer overall. It fits really well though so it will work 'til then
Now thats a tubing cutter
Used the rear spring mount location for the exhaust hangers...widened the bolt centers on the hanger insulators and 'sandwiching plate' and they bolted right in.
Tailpipes fully welded and hangers on...ready to go in and have the whole system tightened up...
Rear coilovers are bolted in and adjusted up, all the exhaust is tightened. I'm really happy with the exhaust this time.
The spring seat adjusters on the rear shocks are cranked all the way up just to get the rear wheel well opening even with the top edge of the rim. I ordered the 3.7" upper shock eyelets to replace the stock 1.7". This way I can raise the backend up some but not have the spring adjusters cranked all the way to the top. Ridetech should sell these kits with the 3.7" eyelets to give the users a wider range of ride height adjustability without having to drop another $100
One hanger in..woohoo, big progress
These are walker parts made for the rear mufflers of a c4 vette..total of both pieces was only about $10. I'll have one more located near on each tailpipe.I'm thinking I might redo this intermediate pipe next year since it's made up of so many pieces..get rid of the boogery welds and make it just nicer overall. It fits really well though so it will work 'til then
Now thats a tubing cutter
Used the rear spring mount location for the exhaust hangers...widened the bolt centers on the hanger insulators and 'sandwiching plate' and they bolted right in.
Tailpipes fully welded and hangers on...ready to go in and have the whole system tightened up...
Rear coilovers are bolted in and adjusted up, all the exhaust is tightened. I'm really happy with the exhaust this time.
The spring seat adjusters on the rear shocks are cranked all the way up just to get the rear wheel well opening even with the top edge of the rim. I ordered the 3.7" upper shock eyelets to replace the stock 1.7". This way I can raise the backend up some but not have the spring adjusters cranked all the way to the top. Ridetech should sell these kits with the 3.7" eyelets to give the users a wider range of ride height adjustability without having to drop another $100
The paint on the car is nowhere near as good as it looks in the pics...and the pics don't even make it look that good. So no loss there. 
10-22-2013, 08:47 PM
#196
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice job! Could you share with us the details on the fuel lines, materials used along with tools for bending and flaring. That routing is exactly what I'd like to accomplish on my LS install.
10-23-2013, 09:15 AM
#197
Staging Lane
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow. I just finished reading the whole build. I have been following you over on SNS but that only covers from the roof stuff to today. Very nice job on everything I am not ashamed to say I will be using alot of your ideas seeing as they are much better than what I had in mind. Keep up the good work.
10-23-2013, 09:55 AM
#198
Thank you , 19wagon63.
JonTagTop, I use the Ridgid #36097 (406) tube bender for the 3/8" tube..it will bend 180 degrees, but not very well. I wouldn't do more than 90 deg on steel tubing. AN flares were done with the Ridgid #41162 (377) 37 degree AN flaring tool..worth every penny, really a nice tool.
The braided line is Earls Pro-Lite 350 with their fittings, easy to assemble, and cuts with razor blade. The tube is just 3/8" steel tubing from the parts store. The quick connect is the Russell 640690 and the rest of the fittings are just -6AN tube nuts and tube sleeves.
Word of caution, I'm trying to quiet down the fuel pump noise which I think is increased because of the hard lines coming off the pump. I've put dense foam between the tank and body, and that helped some, but I am going to switch out these steel lines for the braided to help dampen any vibrations the pump transmits to the filter..which then transmits it to the body.
JonTagTop, I use the Ridgid #36097 (406) tube bender for the 3/8" tube..it will bend 180 degrees, but not very well. I wouldn't do more than 90 deg on steel tubing. AN flares were done with the Ridgid #41162 (377) 37 degree AN flaring tool..worth every penny, really a nice tool.
The braided line is Earls Pro-Lite 350 with their fittings, easy to assemble, and cuts with razor blade. The tube is just 3/8" steel tubing from the parts store. The quick connect is the Russell 640690 and the rest of the fittings are just -6AN tube nuts and tube sleeves.
Word of caution, I'm trying to quiet down the fuel pump noise which I think is increased because of the hard lines coming off the pump. I've put dense foam between the tank and body, and that helped some, but I am going to switch out these steel lines for the braided to help dampen any vibrations the pump transmits to the filter..which then transmits it to the body.
