I want a build thread too....'63 Chevy II Wagon.
very nice job 
11-21-2011, 07:45 PM
#144
Very nice, the stance is perfect.
How does the exhaust sound? I am just getting going on my project and looking for ideas for exhaust. I want something fairly quiet as it will be in a DD.
Any videos to hear how it sounds.
very nice work by the way...looks factory!
How does the exhaust sound? I am just getting going on my project and looking for ideas for exhaust. I want something fairly quiet as it will be in a DD.
Any videos to hear how it sounds.
very nice work by the way...looks factory!
04-20-2012, 02:00 PM
#146
Been on hiatus for a while from doing anything on the car, but got some parts in the mail. I took the X-pipe off and build a Y-pipe system with a single muffler and a single tailpipe out the left rear. Hopefully this will cut down on the noise and the fumes.
I'd like to have dual tailpipes, one at each corner of the bumper, but wagons aren't suited for that due to the spare tire well and bumper/frame brackets. So we'll see how this turns out...
Got the mandrel bends, muffler, and merge...
Planning to have the merge under the front u-joint, then turn towards the driver's side to go back to the muffler...it's 2.5" up to the merge and 3" out of the merge all the way to the back.
Something like this...
Coming right along...here's the Y all welded...
Comparison to the X pipe. I decided to center the Y under the tailshaft so that the headers and piping all the way to the merge would be of equal length, or close to it.
Two 45s off the merge that go back to the muffler...the band clamp will allow the exhaust to come off in sections. There will be another band clamp just after the axle.
Clearance for the u-joint....
Getting it tucked up...
I'd like to have dual tailpipes, one at each corner of the bumper, but wagons aren't suited for that due to the spare tire well and bumper/frame brackets. So we'll see how this turns out...
Got the mandrel bends, muffler, and merge...
Planning to have the merge under the front u-joint, then turn towards the driver's side to go back to the muffler...it's 2.5" up to the merge and 3" out of the merge all the way to the back.
Something like this...
Coming right along...here's the Y all welded...
Comparison to the X pipe. I decided to center the Y under the tailshaft so that the headers and piping all the way to the merge would be of equal length, or close to it.
Two 45s off the merge that go back to the muffler...the band clamp will allow the exhaust to come off in sections. There will be another band clamp just after the axle.
Clearance for the u-joint....
Getting it tucked up...
04-20-2012, 02:02 PM
#147
More progress...
After positioning everything...the over-the-axle pipes were welded. This is the only tricky area because of all the stuff in the way (tank, spring, filler neck, shock...).
This section is all welded up and will go in with band clamps...
Here is the hanger. I saved a few of these off one of my previous 4th Gens. Hated to drill the holes but it worked out slick...the bolts were tack welded to the mount so that one person can put the nuts on from inside the car w/o help. Going for a factory look.
Bent up a hanger from 5/16" rod which then got welded to the pipe...
The end sticking out eventually got trimmed back and bent downward so that it could not slip out of the grommet.
Once the front part of the system was hanging on its own, the tailpipe could be figured out.
There is one more hanger (like the front one) at the end of the tailpipe...all that's left is paint and trimming the tip at an angle...
After positioning everything...the over-the-axle pipes were welded. This is the only tricky area because of all the stuff in the way (tank, spring, filler neck, shock...).
This section is all welded up and will go in with band clamps...
Here is the hanger. I saved a few of these off one of my previous 4th Gens. Hated to drill the holes but it worked out slick...the bolts were tack welded to the mount so that one person can put the nuts on from inside the car w/o help. Going for a factory look.
Bent up a hanger from 5/16" rod which then got welded to the pipe...
The end sticking out eventually got trimmed back and bent downward so that it could not slip out of the grommet.
Once the front part of the system was hanging on its own, the tailpipe could be figured out.
There is one more hanger (like the front one) at the end of the tailpipe...all that's left is paint and trimming the tip at an angle...
04-20-2012, 02:10 PM
#149
I started disassembling the 2nd rearend. I'm still thinking I'll make a jig to bolt the housing to for reassembly so it's more stable.
Diff came out pretty easy...but the pinion nut didn't want to move! After some heat and a soak in brake fluid it finally came loose.
Little did I know the pinion nut was nothing compared to driving the pinion gear out! It was STUCK! I was beginning to think the pinion splines had rusted solid to the yoke. After literally 300 whacks with a hammer and brass punch (which is now destroyed) it came loose. I also managed to break the bottle jack on my 20 ton press....I figured it might be easier to just press the pinion out, but the bottle jack gave up first. It's a Harbor Freight press
...the frame is nice, the bottle jack is junk.
Success :yes: Just have to drive the pinion races out and it's off to the blaster next week.
I figured I'd get the old rearend out while waiting for blasting. Started with draining the fluid....if you can call it that haha. This fluid has about 2k miles on it. Looks slightly metallic.
For now the brakes are zip tied up to the body, but they will be coming out for cleaning and new rear lines in the next few days...didn't want to deal with the brake fluid mess right now. This summer I'd like to do rear discs as well and add a power booster.
So here's what's left. The black stuff on the cross pin is metal/lube goo. The same stuff is all over the inside of the case and on all the other parts.
Seems something is missing!
More minor carnage. Crush sleeve looks like it's had some stuff pass by...
And I think I found some of the missing thrust washer up in the front pinion bearing area...plus a piece of a gear tooth
Now for the better stuff. A friend of mine blasted the spare rearend that was previously disassembled. Threw some primer on it...
Decided to go with Moser axles and some Strange 1/2" screw in studs...
Diff came out pretty easy...but the pinion nut didn't want to move! After some heat and a soak in brake fluid it finally came loose.
Little did I know the pinion nut was nothing compared to driving the pinion gear out! It was STUCK! I was beginning to think the pinion splines had rusted solid to the yoke. After literally 300 whacks with a hammer and brass punch (which is now destroyed) it came loose. I also managed to break the bottle jack on my 20 ton press....I figured it might be easier to just press the pinion out, but the bottle jack gave up first. It's a Harbor Freight press
...the frame is nice, the bottle jack is junk.Success :yes: Just have to drive the pinion races out and it's off to the blaster next week.
I figured I'd get the old rearend out while waiting for blasting. Started with draining the fluid....if you can call it that haha. This fluid has about 2k miles on it. Looks slightly metallic.
For now the brakes are zip tied up to the body, but they will be coming out for cleaning and new rear lines in the next few days...didn't want to deal with the brake fluid mess right now. This summer I'd like to do rear discs as well and add a power booster.
So here's what's left. The black stuff on the cross pin is metal/lube goo. The same stuff is all over the inside of the case and on all the other parts.
Seems something is missing!
More minor carnage. Crush sleeve looks like it's had some stuff pass by...
And I think I found some of the missing thrust washer up in the front pinion bearing area...plus a piece of a gear tooth
Now for the better stuff. A friend of mine blasted the spare rearend that was previously disassembled. Threw some primer on it...
Decided to go with Moser axles and some Strange 1/2" screw in studs...
04-20-2012, 02:15 PM
#150
Looking much better 
Pressed the new races in and cleaned the case...
Also made new brake lines since they were in pretty rough shape. These will get switched out if I ever get around to doing rear discs.
And after a dozen tries trying to perfect it, this is the pattern I get. Every time I tried to move the drive pattern closer to the center of the tooth, the backlash would open up way too big. From what I've been reading, as long as the contact pattern is centered between the tip and root of the tooth, it's good. It doesn't necessarily have to be centered between the toe and heel.
And with this, backlash is right at .008"...
On the home stretch now. The new pinion bearings, crush sleeve, pinion seal, and yoke went on...pinion turning torque came out perfectly at 25 in/lbs. I added .005" to each carrier shim pack and tapped the carrier in. Backlash came out at .0075-.008" measured in 3 places aorund the ring gear.
All buttoned up...
Looking for a home
Just have to bleed the brakes and it's off for a road test!
Pressed the new races in and cleaned the case...
Also made new brake lines since they were in pretty rough shape. These will get switched out if I ever get around to doing rear discs.
And after a dozen tries trying to perfect it, this is the pattern I get. Every time I tried to move the drive pattern closer to the center of the tooth, the backlash would open up way too big. From what I've been reading, as long as the contact pattern is centered between the tip and root of the tooth, it's good. It doesn't necessarily have to be centered between the toe and heel.
And with this, backlash is right at .008"...
On the home stretch now. The new pinion bearings, crush sleeve, pinion seal, and yoke went on...pinion turning torque came out perfectly at 25 in/lbs. I added .005" to each carrier shim pack and tapped the carrier in. Backlash came out at .0075-.008" measured in 3 places aorund the ring gear.
All buttoned up...
Looking for a home
Just have to bleed the brakes and it's off for a road test!
05-21-2012, 07:21 PM
#152
Had to switch out the pinion seal twice due to leaking for some strange reason...I used a new yoke too. Measured the runout of everything and I cant find the problem. Went back to the old yoke with a new seal and no leaks! Waiting to hear back on warranty of the yoke, so we'll see.
Much nicer to drive with the gears and posi
Much nicer to drive with the gears and posi
Gonna try and get this right on the first try.
06-18-2012, 10:48 AM
#159
Making the lid...
There's going to be a rubber edge gasket between the body and the lid...
And out comes the cutoff wheel
Also made a rain shield (going to add another on the front of the core support). Hopefully the air will hit the shield and go up while the water goes down to drain holes. I don't intend to have it out in the rain anyway, but just in case...
There's going to be a rubber edge gasket between the body and the lid...
And out comes the cutoff wheel
Also made a rain shield (going to add another on the front of the core support). Hopefully the air will hit the shield and go up while the water goes down to drain holes. I don't intend to have it out in the rain anyway, but just in case...