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5.3L/4L60E doesn't fit in 64 Chevelle

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Old 09-28-2010, 07:00 PM
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Default 5.3L/4L60E doesn't fit in 64 Chevelle

Finally got time to put the engine in the chevelle today and I cannot get it to fit. I tried hammering on the tranny tunnel where the tranny case was hitting but then I noticed that even if the tranny had no interference the oil pan was keeping the engine mounts about one inch off the passenger side mount, no as bad on the drivers side.

My dilemma is that I must raise the motor some to get it off the oil pan, which in turn is going to make the tranny tunnel clearance issues even worse.

I am using 1" setback plates and have room to use the standard plates that set the engine 1" forward of where it is now if needed but I am not sure it would help much.

Anyone have any wisdom for my situation?
Old 09-28-2010, 07:08 PM
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Yep... get an oil pan that clears...Many choices out there.
Old 09-28-2010, 07:10 PM
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Are you trying to use the stock truck pan? If so, that your issue.
Old 09-28-2010, 07:19 PM
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What pan, and does that car have the drag link behind the cross member?
Old 09-28-2010, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MillsMotorvation
What pan, and does that car have the drag link behind the cross member?
a body linkages are in front
Old 09-28-2010, 08:35 PM
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I am using a modified truck pan. I have seen several threads on here where people used the truck pan and it fit, but I cannot figure it out.

As for the oil pan choices, they all have pros and cons, was hoping this would work.
Old 09-28-2010, 11:55 PM
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I looked at modifying the truck pan on mine but there just wouldnt be enough pan left to hold enough oil. I am using a champ pan on mine and it works great.It is close to the steering though.Mine is a 67 chevelle. I also cut the floor out to clear the 4l80e.
Old 09-29-2010, 01:24 AM
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heat up, dimple the xmember where the pan hits?
Old 09-29-2010, 11:17 AM
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iz wuz wantin to put a 5.3 in mah 70 caddy when I sells my cutlas but now iz scared now from wut you said
Old 09-29-2010, 07:31 PM
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on my 64 i used a milodon pan and a hammer and it fit fine. the trick is to put the car on jack stands and and use a engine tilter on your hoist, raise the motor very high and tilt the motor and trans at an angle and slide the trans and engine in.
Old 09-29-2010, 08:16 PM
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My brother has a 5.3 4l60e in his 64 buick special. he used a LH8 hummer pan and had to leave the engine pretty high to clear the steering linkage. It did not fit well at all with the trans tunnel, had to cut a bunch of it out. didn`t really matter on that car anyway though, the floor was so rotted we had to cut the entire floorpan out and mod a 94 buick roadmaster one to fit.
Old 10-01-2010, 02:21 AM
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I don not have any trouble getting the motor in the engine bay, the problem is that if I get it high enough for the pan to clear the cross-member then the trans tunnel is in the way of getting the assembly at 3 degrees down for proper alignment.

From what I have seen I do not see how any of the other pans are going to help me with this issue. The pan is hitting at the back of the cross-member, which all the pans look to me like they have a similar depth at this location. I guess I will have to raise the motor mounts and beat the hell out of the tranny tunnel until it fits. I might slide it slightly forward if that looks like it will help, but I have to watch that the exhaust still fits if I start moving things forward.

Now, where did I last see that BFH at???
Old 10-01-2010, 10:57 AM
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my friend is doing a LSx T56 swap in his 67 chevelle. even with the T56 being smaller than the 4l80e he still cut the tunnel out.

Grab a cut-off wheel
Old 10-01-2010, 03:23 PM
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Not doing a 4L80e, using the smaller 4L60e. Everyone has to cut for the T-56 and 4L80e, most people state they can install a 4l60e without cutting tunnel.

I had a 700R4 (similar to the 4L60e) with the 396 before that fit without problem.
Old 10-02-2010, 09:28 AM
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Default pan

go to street and performance www.hotrodlane.com they have the oil pan you need I have used there pans on all the musclecars I have put ls1 motors in.

Brady
Old 10-28-2010, 01:38 PM
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Still can't get engine to fit. Have moved the mounts 1" forward and raised the stands 1/2", with the tranny jacked up till it hits the tunnel at the tailshaft the oil pan is hitting the crossmember. Pic below shows where it hits, I have a folded bath towel between it and the crossmember.



Really do not want to use the modified F-body pan but I am starting to think I will. Next pictures show the closest I can get it to lining up with the motor mount and the stands.




Anyone have any helpful advice?

Last edited by neal64ss; 10-28-2010 at 01:44 PM.
Old 11-03-2010, 07:42 PM
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Just finished attempt #5 at installing motor/trans, still no go. Looks like I need to lower the engine, which I cannot do because of the oil pan, or raise the tranny, which I cannot do because of the tranny tunnel.

Using the truck oil pan. I think that if I could raise the tranny that the interference with the oil pan would disappear as it pivots away from the back of the cross-member when the tranny is raised.

I have beat on the tranny tunnel until I do not think it is going to move any more.

Anyone with a 64 that had to cut the tunnel to get it to fit and pics of the tunnel mod would be appreciated.
Old 11-03-2010, 09:12 PM
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Default 1964 swap

Here is a link to my 1964 build. I think it may answer a lot of the questions that you have. The aftermarket pan fits the best in the 64 chevelle. GM did bring out a hotrod pan but I still think it will not work. Hope this helps with some of the problems you are having.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l98-4l70e.html
Old 11-03-2010, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by macdaddy1968
iz wuz wantin to put a 5.3 in mah 70 caddy when I sells my cutlas but now iz scared now from wut you said
thank you...

LOL!
Old 11-03-2010, 09:36 PM
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I would try a F-Body pan, the front of the Sump is about 3/4" less.

If you have to, have it notched to clear the rear of the x-member.. That should help in lowering the front of the engine and might clear the Trans Tunnel to get the engine tilt close to the correct tilt (3-5*).

From looking at the pictures. Your Frame stands/mounts could also be the problem. I know the early A-body were different from the later A-Body's. And from what I can see, they move the mount location pertty far forward.

Maybe try relocating the frame mounts to there rear or get some 70-72 frame stands and mount then as you need. Can any of your early A-Body guys compare your frame stands to the ones in the pictures and also what Motor mounts you are using ?


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