LS1 in third gen-vats
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Staging Lane
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Port St. Lucie,Florida
LS1 in third gen-vats Man, this conversion stuff sure can be difficult. I just completed my swap of an LS1 into my 90 iroc last week, and have been driving it to work every day without a problem. Well, not without some problems. My fuel, oil pressure and speedo don't work, actually, the speedo works about half the time, but thats another issue. My main problem is that first there was about a 5-6 second delay when I would turn the key to start, I'd hear the relay kick on and the fuel pump come on and she'd start. Now, I still hear the fuel relay kick in, but no start, no clicks, nothing. The car was fine the last time I used it. I'm wondering if because the 90 car has its own vats system and the ls1 has its own thing, if that's causing the delay and now the no start situation. This is driving me crazy! Please help! I'am horrible at things electrical. Sean
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
The delay is probably just a bad connection somewhere. There are no electronic decisions being made that take 5-6 seconds to determine. The VATS decision is instant.
The 2 VATS systems are not compatible. If you are using a VATS module for the LS1, the only thing left functioning on the car is the starter relay. Your best bet is to just wire around it so that the ignition switch goes straight to the starter, instead of using the 90 VATS module to determine if your ignition key is correct.
It really sounds like bad connections are your biggest problem right now. Try to solder everything if you can. If you are twisting wires and taping them or using a bunch of those red, blue and yellow crimp things, it will lead to trouble down the road, or ON the road!
The 2 VATS systems are not compatible. If you are using a VATS module for the LS1, the only thing left functioning on the car is the starter relay. Your best bet is to just wire around it so that the ignition switch goes straight to the starter, instead of using the 90 VATS module to determine if your ignition key is correct.
It really sounds like bad connections are your biggest problem right now. Try to solder everything if you can. If you are twisting wires and taping them or using a bunch of those red, blue and yellow crimp things, it will lead to trouble down the road, or ON the road!
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 80
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From: Port St. Lucie,Florida
Originally Posted by Speartech
The delay is probably just a bad connection somewhere. There are no electronic decisions being made that take 5-6 seconds to determine. The VATS decision is instant.
The 2 VATS systems are not compatible. If you are using a VATS module for the LS1, the only thing left functioning on the car is the starter relay. Your best bet is to just wire around it so that the ignition switch goes straight to the starter, instead of using the 90 VATS module to determine if your ignition key is correct.
It really sounds like bad connections are your biggest problem right now. Try to solder everything if you can. If you are twisting wires and taping them or using a bunch of those red, blue and yellow crimp things, it will lead to trouble down the road, or ON the road!
The 2 VATS systems are not compatible. If you are using a VATS module for the LS1, the only thing left functioning on the car is the starter relay. Your best bet is to just wire around it so that the ignition switch goes straight to the starter, instead of using the 90 VATS module to determine if your ignition key is correct.
It really sounds like bad connections are your biggest problem right now. Try to solder everything if you can. If you are twisting wires and taping them or using a bunch of those red, blue and yellow crimp things, it will lead to trouble down the road, or ON the road!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
I'm certainly not trying to judge your electrical skills, since I have no idea what they are. It sounds like you've done it right. I've had some cars come into the shop that are supposed to be finished projects, but to look at some of the wiring it would take a hope and a prayer to make it 50 miles down the road!
There is no downside to bypassing the starter relay; it just gets rid of all of the old VATS system (now you can buy cheap keys with no vats pellet in them!
).
I am just trying to get around any area that might be causing you trouble.
The fuel gauge shouldn't be related to anything you have done, so I don't know why that isn't working.
There is no downside to bypassing the starter relay; it just gets rid of all of the old VATS system (now you can buy cheap keys with no vats pellet in them!
).I am just trying to get around any area that might be causing you trouble.
The fuel gauge shouldn't be related to anything you have done, so I don't know why that isn't working.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Port St. Lucie,Florida
on the right path Well, I think I found the problem, but I don't understand how the car would have ever started before. The 90 car was a 5 speed, with the LS1 having an A4. So, I ended up taking the 2 wires that went into the clutch/start switch and of course removing it completely. I then connected the same size wires directly to the gear indicator switch. The car has been fine up to this point except the long delay before it would start. So, I'm looking near the fuse block and I see this purple/white wire hanging down with a single wire grey connector on it-nothing attached to it. Hmm. I thought that the original clutch switch only had these other(purple and tan/white) wires going to it, but now I can't remember. So, I have no idea where this purple/white wire goes and I'm confused. So, thats where I'm at. I think that's the problem. Yeah, my wiring skills are nil, but I'm learning! Thanks again, Sean
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
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I don't know what color the wires going to your original clutch start switch were, but the ones on the clutch start switch I got of a '90 RS are purple and yellow. The purple wire goes to the alternator and the yellow came from the ignition. These are the same color wires that went to the nuetral safety switch on my '86 Z28. At one point I just had them wired together because I couldn't get the switch supplied by B&M, with my shifter, to work. I don't know if this will help, but I hope it does. Good luck.
Same here on my '82, back when I swapped in a T56 I spliced my park/neutral safety switch circuit together. The switch was just wired in series between the ignition key switch and the starter solenoid. I later routed that circuit to the clutch pedal switch.
I'm now nearing the finish line of my LS1/T56 swap and I'm working on the wiring. I'm fabricating a new harness to mate the LS1's C100/C101/C105/C220/C230 connectors to my '82 chassis C100/C207 connectors. I bought a '99 chassis harness on eBay for $40, came with every connector I need plus plenty of Packard high-temp wire in every imaginable size/color combo. Aside from cleaning out the local NAPA's pin bin of Metri-Pak 150 and other sizes, this has yielded everything I've needed thus far.
I'm now nearing the finish line of my LS1/T56 swap and I'm working on the wiring. I'm fabricating a new harness to mate the LS1's C100/C101/C105/C220/C230 connectors to my '82 chassis C100/C207 connectors. I bought a '99 chassis harness on eBay for $40, came with every connector I need plus plenty of Packard high-temp wire in every imaginable size/color combo. Aside from cleaning out the local NAPA's pin bin of Metri-Pak 150 and other sizes, this has yielded everything I've needed thus far.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Port St. Lucie,Florida
relay problems Well, I had someone help me out around here today and it was determined that my starter relay had power going in, and nothing going out. Really strange. I have another 90 IROC sitting around that I basically swapped all my LS1 stuff out of(I wanted everything in my non-T-top car) and it's strange that the relay in that car was also bad. I remember now that I had start problems very similar to what I'am experiencing now and I ended up paying someone 350$ to add another solenoid away from the starter. I guess they bypassed the problem or something-they ripped me off I suppose. So, I will try and get a new relay tomorrow and I should be riding again. Thanks for all the replies. Sean
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Staging Lane
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Port St. Lucie,Florida
I hate vats OK, this is it! I got my new relay today and of course, the car would not start. At this point, I'm not surprised. So, I decided that it absolutely must be the vats system for whatever reason. This is the solution for me at least. The black with yellow wire that the vats module will ground if it sees the correct resistance was simply cut at the relay and grounded to the nearest location. Boom, starts right up with no delay. Finally a solution. Actually, Speartech got me pointed in the right direction. This board has been an invaluable source of information, and my car wouldn't have been running this soon without it. Thanks, Sean
