tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

You said it, ha!

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Ha Ha your funny. And by funny I don't mean the ha ha kind!

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

I'm hitting it with a 47/28 jets, so that should make for a 90 shot. Tested it this evening and it is a riot! Time to go back to the track.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

When you going back to the track?

Are you going to the 4-wide nationals this Saturday in Charlotte, NC?? Me and my son are heading down early Saturday and check out the big boys blast it down the track.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the invite. I really want to run the car and since they probably won't let me run with the "big boys,"I might make a two hour drive to silver dollar tomorrow night, since Atlanta Dragway has got something booked.

If I couldn't drive it there, run it, and drive it home, I would have built a new sbc.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Made the long drive to Silver Dollar and it was well worth it. I was running consistent 11.7s on the motor and got to do this, spraying 90. The lower elevation of 448 feet helped quite a bit. Best part is making it home without breaking.

bmf5150

Very nice!!how u do without spray?

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

11.77-11.72 at 115-116 as it got cooler. Oh yeah, I weighed the car with me in it at 3700 or 3500 without. This pig is heavy and my 200 pound fat *** doesn't help.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I told you you would be knocking on the 10's! Man that is awesome!!! 11.1's!!Not a bad 60 foot time either. Did you swap the street tires for slicks when you got to the track or did the DOT tires do that well?
Appreciate the info on the weight. I am sure mine will weigh just about the same. Maybe a little lighter with the driver! About 25 lbs lighter to be exact, ha! Hopefully all of the chinese sheetmetal in my car is so thin I will be lighter. Now to get you a bottle of liquid courage and swap the 90's for the 125's!!! I cant believe you didnt swap them at the track as soon as you seen the ET drop that much. Did you spray off of the line or roll out and hit it? Again Dan great job!!!! You know what next right? S/C or stroker. This clearly shows a lack of power to move the bogga! Gary (GC99TA) is battling the same issue. You need a bump in compression and you will not need the spray.

FatfreeGTO

Wow! Well done, I'm speechless! Congratulations.

BillB

Wow! That is awesome! I'd sure like to know how a low 11 sec. ride feels. If it was my car, people would probably be staring at me wondering why that old gray-haired fart was jumping up and down all-excited. Heck, I'd probably be doing that with a mid-12s run, since the fastest car I ever owned ran low-13s on street tires and mufflers. I never did get to try it out on slicks, but I should have. Of course, that was 30 years ago. Way more cool go-fast stuff nowadays. Yeah, I had a bit of a back in those days ala 70s style.

Good work!
Bill B.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. Yeah it was a rush, really fun. I just got to do the one pass on nitrous because something happened to the nitrous solenoid, not sure yet, I couldn't fix it at the track. Still I was very happy because there was a lot going on in that one pass. The chassis seemed to groan and make noises that I haven't heard before as it came off the line in first gear and I may have been getting a little wheel hop. Dust and **** was flying all around the inside of the car.

Later on, the posi started to slip on the burnouts with the slicks. And Tony, there's a reason I didn't try the 125 shot. I left the jets at home on purpose to avoid the temptation. I think I was pushing my luck with those 10 bolt axels.

I'm not sure how I'm going to upgrade this rear end. I can get a new Ford 9 inch with a custom width for $1700 with a ford mootorsports trac-lok and 31 splines. I don't like the idea of giving up another 2-3% power loss. I really think my 10 bolt will hold up just fine with the same upgrades that Tony has, but then it's not narrowed the way I'd like for the new body.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Man that's awesome! Low 11s must be a rush. Hearing about your car groaning off the line I wonder - do you have subframe connectors?

As far as the 10 bolt goes, just don't do this http://bangshift.com/blog/watch-a-re...-drag-car.html

bitterman

Nice run! I see 10's in your future!

Bruce

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

Awesome run man! I know that was a blast!

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, there's probably 100lbs of bondo and tar in my car. I sprayed off the line, but my little magic box was set to see 4 volts(out of 4.2 wot) from the tps signal and 3800rpm. I didn't bother foot braking much, since my rear brakes can't hold anything, so I probably hit coming right off the line. As far as the 25lbs go, you're right, I need to get that ***** reduction surgery.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

That video was great. If that happened to me, it would save a lot of time removing rusty sheetmetal. I have welded CE connectors and solid body bushings, but there isn't much else holding it together. Still, I think it has 2/10s left in it.

futureuser

iTrader: (1)

Before I die, I will grow a mullet and a mustache!

OldCobraGuy

iTrader: (2)

If you can prove that loss to me, I would be absolutely shocked. There's a reason that is the most popular rear end in the world...it flat works. If...and that is a VERY big if...there is any power loss at all, it is more than made up by the strength and reliability. I don't want to toot my own horn, but I've built dozens of diffs in my life...and by far, the 9" is the way to go. It's unsurpassed in strength, gear ratio availability, and ease of adjustments. It just can't be beat.

GC99TA

iTrader: (30)

I agree that there MAY be some measurable amount of power lost in turning the bigger, heavier parts of a 9 inch over a smaller rear end. But the more power a given combonation makes, the less measureable this loss becomes.

For example, you can't accurately say that a 9 inch will cause you to lose 2-3% power to the rear wheels without first considering how much power your starting with and without knowing how much fixed power it takes to turn your current rear end AND the 9 inch. A given rear end can only take a fixed amount of power to turn it. That number should be a constant.

So lets say for argument sake that "power to turn" number for a 8.5 10-bolt is 45hp. For a 100hp motor that's a 45% parasitic power loss, for a 500hp motor that is a 9% parasitic power loss and for a 1000hp motor it's only a 4.5% parasitic power loss. But in all three scenarios, it's still a fixed value of 45hp. Of course I'm leaving out the losses through the transmission for simplicity sake.

So the percentage of power loss will be the difference between the power required to turn each rear end type, relative to the amount of power your starting with. So lets take the 500hp motor with a 10-bolt example; We'll still say that it takes 45hp to turn an 8.5 ten bolt (imaginary number) and maybe 50hp to turn the 9 inch (also an imaginary number). We established that 45hp is 9% of 500hp. Doing the quick math, we calculate that 50hp is 10% of 500hp. So, if my "power to turn" numbers were accurate, a 500hp car would lose 1% power switching from a 10-bolt to a 9 inch. Our 100hp example would lose 5% power with this swap and our 1000hp combo would only lose 1/2% power.

So since it's relative to your combo.......we really need to know the ACTUAL hp numbers it takes to turn each rear end, and those are the magic numbers I've never been able to reliably find. Everyone always quotes a percentage of loss, but my questions always are: How much power was the combo making and what did they swap from?

If anyone comes across these numbers let me know. I'll do some searching and see what I can find too as I plan to switch from a 10-bolt to a 9 inch myself. Another factor to be considered as well is just the physical weight of the 9 inch over the 10 bolt.....nevermind the rotating part of it.