How to make a LS3 conversion an not lose any dash, ABS, OBDII ect functions?
10-19-2010, 09:45 PM
#1
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How to make a LS3 conversion an not lose any dash, ABS, OBDII ect functions? Hello LStech,
I have been researching all the steps and necessary parts to make a LS1 to LS3 conversion in my 1999 Z28 Camaro(6sp Man). I am doing this to get a good estimate the total cost without encountering any expensive surprises.
One issue still eludes me: What type of wiring solution allows me to run the motor (and this is the the issue I don't have an answer for) retain all of the dashboard functionins,the OBDII, the ABS, AC, Lights, all my power accessories etc.Do I run 2 ECU's and 2 wiring harnesses: one for the motor function and one for the dashboard functioning,the OBDII, the ABS, AC, Lights, all power accessories etc.
Does anyone know of a business or company that specializes in ECU and custom harness for this type of conversion?
All informed input would be greatly appreciated.
I have been researching all the steps and necessary parts to make a LS1 to LS3 conversion in my 1999 Z28 Camaro(6sp Man). I am doing this to get a good estimate the total cost without encountering any expensive surprises.
One issue still eludes me: What type of wiring solution allows me to run the motor (and this is the the issue I don't have an answer for) retain all of the dashboard functionins,the OBDII, the ABS, AC, Lights, all my power accessories etc.Do I run 2 ECU's and 2 wiring harnesses: one for the motor function and one for the dashboard functioning,the OBDII, the ABS, AC, Lights, all power accessories etc.
Does anyone know of a business or company that specializes in ECU and custom harness for this type of conversion?
All informed input would be greatly appreciated.
10-20-2010, 02:52 AM
#3
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If you want to do this in a straightforward way you will need to convert the 58X electronic TB LS3 to a 24X cable TB and run the LS3 with the LS1 PCM. The 24X conversion either needs the crank reluctor changed or use a Lingenfelter 58 > 24X convertor unit.
etc...
etc...
10-20-2010, 05:16 AM
#4
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someone should make a sticky thread on how to do this..... oh wait https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...02-f-body.html
Ya... that should cover it.
Ya... that should cover it.
10-20-2010, 10:07 AM
#5
Do NOT use the Lingenfelter box!!
It looks great until you drive it for a while. I did it, had constant stalling problems. The unit would get hot, go into protect, die, and not restart until it cooled down. It even did this after I moved it into the car's cabin. Lingenfelter blows on this. Every single one of these my shop did had the same problem and LPE did nothing about it.
The LS3 is awesome, my cam only jobbie put down 465/440 SAE on a dynojet and got 25 MPG highway. Either swap reluctor wheels or change gauges and don't worry about it.
It looks great until you drive it for a while. I did it, had constant stalling problems. The unit would get hot, go into protect, die, and not restart until it cooled down. It even did this after I moved it into the car's cabin. Lingenfelter blows on this. Every single one of these my shop did had the same problem and LPE did nothing about it.
The LS3 is awesome, my cam only jobbie put down 465/440 SAE on a dynojet and got 25 MPG highway. Either swap reluctor wheels or change gauges and don't worry about it.
10-20-2010, 03:58 PM
#6
TECH Resident
Do NOT use the Lingenfelter box!!
It looks great until you drive it for a while. I did it, had constant stalling problems. The unit would get hot, go into protect, die, and not restart until it cooled down. It even did this after I moved it into the car's cabin. Lingenfelter blows on this. Every single one of these my shop did had the same problem and LPE did nothing about it.
The LS3 is awesome, my cam only jobbie put down 465/440 SAE on a dynojet and got 25 MPG highway. Either swap reluctor wheels or change gauges and don't worry about it.
It looks great until you drive it for a while. I did it, had constant stalling problems. The unit would get hot, go into protect, die, and not restart until it cooled down. It even did this after I moved it into the car's cabin. Lingenfelter blows on this. Every single one of these my shop did had the same problem and LPE did nothing about it.
The LS3 is awesome, my cam only jobbie put down 465/440 SAE on a dynojet and got 25 MPG highway. Either swap reluctor wheels or change gauges and don't worry about it.
Then they discovered as they were running the power out of the ECM 5V sensor supply that they were overloading the ECM 5V power it (the ECM) would go into overload protection and shut the supply down. Since they switched to an external power source it has been reported to be running AOK.
Certainly switching the reluctor wheel to a 24X is the best solution.
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10-20-2010, 06:01 PM
#8
yeah or not, since the gauges wont work that way. Maybe u could find a sticky about how to do this....... oh wait someone already posted the sticky above, oh well ill post it again https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...02-f-body.html
10-20-2010, 07:08 PM
#9
TECH Resident
The gauges will work just fine. With the right computer (E67) the right programming, and the right wiring, everything will work just fine.
Guys are swapping these engines in to 95/96 Corvettes, Impalas, and S-10 trucks with the 58x computers and keeping all of the factory gauges, ABS, cruise etc., so what is so much more complex about the F-body?
Guys are swapping these engines in to 95/96 Corvettes, Impalas, and S-10 trucks with the 58x computers and keeping all of the factory gauges, ABS, cruise etc., so what is so much more complex about the F-body?
Last edited by Jones'n; 10-20-2010 at 07:14 PM.
10-20-2010, 08:24 PM
#10
The gauges will work just fine. With the right computer (E67) the right programming, and the right wiring, everything will work just fine.
Guys are swapping these engines in to 95/96 Corvettes, Impalas, and S-10 trucks with the 58x computers and keeping all of the factory gauges, ABS, cruise etc., so what is so much more complex about the F-body?
Guys are swapping these engines in to 95/96 Corvettes, Impalas, and S-10 trucks with the 58x computers and keeping all of the factory gauges, ABS, cruise etc., so what is so much more complex about the F-body?
10-20-2010, 08:57 PM
#12
right? and if you can use the e67 computer and have your gauges work. Why is that it seems like no one who has swapped a LS2, LS3, or LS7 into an 98-02 f-body use the e67 computer? instead they buy all the wiring extensions, have to go through swapping reluctor wheels or take there chances with the 58x to 24x lingenfelter box. and switch to the cable driven throttle body.
10-20-2010, 10:16 PM
#13
Why wouldnt your gauges work? Its a LSx for LSx swap, not like you're crossing brands
Its a GEN III to GEN IV swap, do the cam, MAP, knock connector moves and solve the 24x to 58x crank signal then it's golden. Personally, Id swap the crank reluctor to 24x and run your old sensors on the new engine for simplicity. That way, your only wiring changes are relocating a few sensors that changed in the generation shift. If you dont change the new injectors the connectors will also have to switch from EV1 to EV6
Its a GEN III to GEN IV swap, do the cam, MAP, knock connector moves and solve the 24x to 58x crank signal then it's golden. Personally, Id swap the crank reluctor to 24x and run your old sensors on the new engine for simplicity. That way, your only wiring changes are relocating a few sensors that changed in the generation shift. If you dont change the new injectors the connectors will also have to switch from EV1 to EV6
10-20-2010, 10:25 PM
#14
Why wouldnt your gauges work? Its a LSx for LSx swap, not like you're crossing brands
Its a GEN III to GEN IV swap, do the cam, MAP, knock connector moves and solve the 24x to 58x crank signal then it's golden. Personally, Id swap the crank reluctor to 24x and run your old sensors on the new engine for simplicity. That way, your only wiring changes are relocating a few sensors that changed in the generation shift. If you dont change the new injectors the connectors will also have to switch from EV1 to EV6
Its a GEN III to GEN IV swap, do the cam, MAP, knock connector moves and solve the 24x to 58x crank signal then it's golden. Personally, Id swap the crank reluctor to 24x and run your old sensors on the new engine for simplicity. That way, your only wiring changes are relocating a few sensors that changed in the generation shift. If you dont change the new injectors the connectors will also have to switch from EV1 to EV6
10-21-2010, 06:26 AM
#15
TECH Resident
right? and if you can use the e67 computer and have your gauges work. Why is that it seems like no one who has swapped a LS2, LS3, or LS7 into an 98-02 f-body use the e67 computer? instead they buy all the wiring extensions, have to go through swapping reluctor wheels or take there chances with the 58x to 24x lingenfelter box. and switch to the cable driven throttle body.
The E67 computer has a speedo, tach, and class 2 serial data output that can all be used to operate an F-body cluster.
10-21-2010, 11:14 AM
#17
TECH Resident
Well, the installation wouldn't be any different as far as mounts, accessories, etc.
On the wiring side of it, I would think Speartech, or we use Current Performance, could make a harness for the car to run the right computer and take care of the programming.
It would probably be easier to get a new harness then to try and modify the LS1 harness for the new computer.
Then, plug it all in, hook up the electronic pedal, and go.
Like I said, it is a matter of just connecting the singals from the computer, to the right places on the car's wiring. All the signals are there from the E67... speedo, tach, Class 2, fans, etc.
If you really are the hard core do-it-yourselfer, you could buy the connectors and pins for the E67 computer, and then cut all the wires from the LS1 computer, move them to the E67 connectors, change the injector plugs, lengthen the cam wiring, knock sensor wiring, change the crank connector, and wire in the electronic throttle pedal and TB.
On the wiring side of it, I would think Speartech, or we use Current Performance, could make a harness for the car to run the right computer and take care of the programming.
It would probably be easier to get a new harness then to try and modify the LS1 harness for the new computer.
Then, plug it all in, hook up the electronic pedal, and go.
Like I said, it is a matter of just connecting the singals from the computer, to the right places on the car's wiring. All the signals are there from the E67... speedo, tach, Class 2, fans, etc.
If you really are the hard core do-it-yourselfer, you could buy the connectors and pins for the E67 computer, and then cut all the wires from the LS1 computer, move them to the E67 connectors, change the injector plugs, lengthen the cam wiring, knock sensor wiring, change the crank connector, and wire in the electronic throttle pedal and TB.
10-21-2010, 08:17 PM
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Thanks guys for taking the time and effort to comment.
Current Performance Wiring, Speed Scene Wiring and Speartech your input would welcomed on this particular thread.
Regards,
LS3"
Current Performance Wiring, Speed Scene Wiring and Speartech your input would welcomed on this particular thread.
Regards,
LS3"
