Average cost on ls conversion
we are working a budget blast 91 GT with a 5.3 and some of my old parts...
800 for the GT stang roller with 3.73
800 for the complete 5.3
400 K-member and mounts
250 in th350
200 in converter
100 for use cam 224/224
My old 243 ported head
my old RPM manifold
My old 750 Vac Holley
My old MSD BOX
Motor is in a put together...
no exhaust and manifolds yet
No fuel system yet
No auto shifter yet
figure another 1000 easy
so about 3500 to 4000 grand with a car!
800 for the GT stang roller with 3.73
800 for the complete 5.3
400 K-member and mounts
250 in th350
200 in converter
100 for use cam 224/224
My old 243 ported head
my old RPM manifold
My old 750 Vac Holley
My old MSD BOX
Motor is in a put together...
no exhaust and manifolds yet
No fuel system yet
No auto shifter yet
figure another 1000 easy
so about 3500 to 4000 grand with a car!
As for chassis rigidity like sfc's and stuff I will get that from them. As a matter of fact that's where I got the steering rebuild kit, and that's where I may get the steering box that I'm going to need.
Buying used parts, and waiting for good deals I got it done with a stock ls1 with stainless headers, 4l60e, np208 t-case for $1700
Again I got alot of good deals, one being selling the 440 for $2,300!!!!
Labor was free, and I was able to borrow a welder from work
Again I got alot of good deals, one being selling the 440 for $2,300!!!!
Labor was free, and I was able to borrow a welder from work
cost i am nowhere near done yet, im putting an ls based engine in a 67 firebird, so far i managed to keep my cost lower by buying a parts car then selling the parts i dont need.... so far i have managed to clear the engine and tranny doing it this way.....
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
I don't even want to know how much I spent. Originally I was going to do the LS swap on a 75 Delta 88 Convertible. I didn't have enough resources of information on how to do it, so I changed the project. I'm doing the swap on a 71 Monte Carlo instead. I've been collecting parts since July 10. My parts are all new though. So far I have
LS3 E-Rod
4L65E trans
GM Trans Controller
BRP LS conversion kit
Ricks EFI Tank
Hotchkis TVS and upper and lower A-Arms
Wilwood Front Brakes
Edelbrock Header Back exhaust for LS
Corvette FEAD and AC Compressor relocation bracket
Classic Auto AC kit
Currie Rearend fully assembled with Wilwood Discs
Corvette FPR
Fuel Lines and Fittings
Flex a Lite Radiator with dual fans
Autometer Gauge kit
Classic Dash kit
AR Torque Thrust M Rims and Tires
After the swap is done, I still have to do the interior. If I do another swap when this project is complete, I'll definately have a lot smaller budget unless I go on another 6 month deployment.
LS3 E-Rod
4L65E trans
GM Trans Controller
BRP LS conversion kit
Ricks EFI Tank
Hotchkis TVS and upper and lower A-Arms
Wilwood Front Brakes
Edelbrock Header Back exhaust for LS
Corvette FEAD and AC Compressor relocation bracket
Classic Auto AC kit
Currie Rearend fully assembled with Wilwood Discs
Corvette FPR
Fuel Lines and Fittings
Flex a Lite Radiator with dual fans
Autometer Gauge kit
Classic Dash kit
AR Torque Thrust M Rims and Tires
After the swap is done, I still have to do the interior. If I do another swap when this project is complete, I'll definately have a lot smaller budget unless I go on another 6 month deployment.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
One question about the parts because i'm really thinking about getting a LQ4 or LQ9 (swapping into a heavy car). Are the parts farely easy to get from regular part stores like Auto Zone, O'Rielly's and Pepboys?
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Canyon country ,ca
65 ElCamino 
I have done 7 swaps into 88-98 chevy trucks (2wd and 4wd) and S10's (2wd) and our average cost is $4300-$5800 depending on options IE: 5.3L vs 6.0L, keeping the old tranny, A/C, etc. Includes new fuel pump, fuel lines, radiator and heater hoses etc. Turn key out the door. And that is only $1500-$1800 labor. Comes with a drivable tune as well. Dyno tune is extra. just my $.02
We did a 6.0L T76 turbo in a 99 mustang for $9200 out the door. No A/C, modded the TKO500 ford tranny to fit the LS motor etc.
At the same time I did a 5.3L swap into my own 88 K3500 for $1760 total.
We did a 6.0L T76 turbo in a 99 mustang for $9200 out the door. No A/C, modded the TKO500 ford tranny to fit the LS motor etc.
At the same time I did a 5.3L swap into my own 88 K3500 for $1760 total.
Thanks John Rackster1315@gmail.com
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 245
Likes: 21
I'm in over 10K but refuse to use old crappy junk yard parts. I suppose if you want to do a hillbilly build with greasy corroded iron blocks and transmissions using mostly OEM components and a lot of custom fabrication work then you could stay under 2K. Just do a youtube search and you will find plenty of ghetto builds like that. Before I jumped on to the LS bandwagon I priced out my Oldspower W30 455 build with EFI. That would have easily been upwards of 15K with less desirable results. Another option is to buy a 50K Camaro but what fun is that?
Last edited by L92 OLDS; Sep 21, 2016 at 07:39 PM.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I'm in over 10K but refuse to use old crappy junk part parts. I suppose if you want to do a hillbilly build with greasy corroded iron blocks and transmissions using mostly OEM components and a lot of custom fabrication work then you could stay under 2K. Just do a youtube search and you will find plenty of ghetto builds like that. Before I jumped on to the LS bandwagon I priced out my Oldspower W30 455 build with EFI. That would have easily been upwards of 15K with less desirable results. Another option is to buy a 50K Camaro but what fun is that?
Greasy block from the junkyard? 20 bucks worth of cleaners and some elbow grease and you can have a freshly painted block.
Custom fabrication? I've done $2000 swaps in old muscle cars that required zero fabrication.
Overspending on the unnecessary doesn't make it a better build, it makes you a sucker for spending $1000 on what the next guy can do for $100.
I'm doing a mild rebuild on a 5.3 with a cam, 4L60e, electronic fans and EFI conversion into another Chevelle in a few weeks. I'll post an entire how-to. Zero fabrication (unless you consider a reworked stock harness as fabrication, or maybe a few holes being drilled as fab work), and on a total budget of just $2500. Will it be magazine ready? No. The car itself is a POS. But spending another $10,000 on a slightly better wire tuck and some aftermarket accessory brackets that aren't needed because the OEM stuff fits fine.. seems a bit excessive.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 245
Likes: 21
This made me LOL. The most I've spend on a swap was $5000 or so in my Nova. When OEM components are better than anything there was in the aftermarket in the 70s, there are diminishing returns to the money spent on them.
Greasy block from the junkyard? 20 bucks worth of cleaners and some elbow grease and you can have a freshly painted block.
Custom fabrication? I've done $2000 swaps in old muscle cars that required zero fabrication.
Overspending on the unnecessary doesn't make it a better build, it makes you a sucker for spending $1000 on what the next guy can do for $100.
I'm doing a mild rebuild on a 5.3 with a cam, 4L60e, electronic fans and EFI conversion into another Chevelle in a few weeks. I'll post an entire how-to. Zero fabrication (unless you consider a reworked stock harness as fabrication, or maybe a few holes being drilled as fab work), and on a total budget of just $2500. Will it be magazine ready? No. The car itself is a POS. But spending another $10,000 on a slightly better wire tuck and some aftermarket accessory brackets that aren't needed because the OEM stuff fits fine.. seems a bit excessive.
Greasy block from the junkyard? 20 bucks worth of cleaners and some elbow grease and you can have a freshly painted block.
Custom fabrication? I've done $2000 swaps in old muscle cars that required zero fabrication.
Overspending on the unnecessary doesn't make it a better build, it makes you a sucker for spending $1000 on what the next guy can do for $100.
I'm doing a mild rebuild on a 5.3 with a cam, 4L60e, electronic fans and EFI conversion into another Chevelle in a few weeks. I'll post an entire how-to. Zero fabrication (unless you consider a reworked stock harness as fabrication, or maybe a few holes being drilled as fab work), and on a total budget of just $2500. Will it be magazine ready? No. The car itself is a POS. But spending another $10,000 on a slightly better wire tuck and some aftermarket accessory brackets that aren't needed because the OEM stuff fits fine.. seems a bit excessive.
I agree that it can be done cheaper with quality results and overspending is stupid....especially when it comes to the wiring harness. There is a significant price increase if you choose to go with a 6.2 aluminum block so that is a factor. To each his own but my opinion is that 4.8's and 5.3's lack low end torque and simply painting at 150K mile junk yard engine without doing internals correctly is polishing a turd. It sounds like you know what your are doing and will do it right. There are a lot of swappers out there that aren't paying attention to the details like inclination angles, correct U joints, and chassis / driveline upgrades to handle the power. All of that takes money. Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
I don't understand "not doing internals properly". GM already did a damn good job on them, which is why there are so many 1000 HP stock shortblock out there. The idea that you need forged internals for an N/A build when my stock rods and pistons have shrugged off 30 pounds of boost from a billet Borg Warner also seems excessive.
4.8 doesn't have the low end torque? I've solved that with a mild cam, TBSS intake, and a pair of 50mm turbos. The entire setup is still cheaper than even a used 6.2 pullout and makes a couple hundred extra HP.
Wiring is a big complaint of mine. A stock harness can be reworked in a day by someone with no experience, but people have no problems spending $650 on one. That's the same price as a V3 Microsquirt controller with plug and play harness.
There are SO many places people spend too much money on, when the same results can be had for half the price.
4.8 doesn't have the low end torque? I've solved that with a mild cam, TBSS intake, and a pair of 50mm turbos. The entire setup is still cheaper than even a used 6.2 pullout and makes a couple hundred extra HP.
Wiring is a big complaint of mine. A stock harness can be reworked in a day by someone with no experience, but people have no problems spending $650 on one. That's the same price as a V3 Microsquirt controller with plug and play harness.
There are SO many places people spend too much money on, when the same results can be had for half the price.
I like fabricating stuff. thats why i do this.
I also allocate my income aggressively towards early retirement, limiting the money I can spend on the hobby. So I junkyard a lot of stuff and roll my own speed parts.
does that mean guys that buy swap kits and holley efi stuff can't enjoy turning money into noise and smoke as much as me?
hell nah, there's room for everyone.
I will say I wish I saved the money I spent of arp rod bolts and bought myself a nice steak dinner
I also allocate my income aggressively towards early retirement, limiting the money I can spend on the hobby. So I junkyard a lot of stuff and roll my own speed parts.
does that mean guys that buy swap kits and holley efi stuff can't enjoy turning money into noise and smoke as much as me?
hell nah, there's room for everyone.
I will say I wish I saved the money I spent of arp rod bolts and bought myself a nice steak dinner
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Canyon country ,ca
Hey Joe, glad I could provide the entertainment. I agree that it can be done cheaper with quality results and overspending is stupid....especially when it comes to the wiring harness. There is a significant price increase if you choose to go with a 6.2 aluminum block so that is a factor. To each his own but my opinion is that 4.8's and 5.3's lack low end torque and simply painting at 150K mile junk yard engine without doing internals correctly is polishing a turd. It sounds like you know what your are doing and will do it right. There are a lot of swappers out there that aren't paying attention to the details like inclination angles, correct U joints, and chassis / driveline upgrades to handle the power. All of that takes money.
I agree that it can be done cheaper with quality results and overspending is stupid....especially when it comes to the wiring harness. There is a significant price increase if you choose to go with a 6.2 aluminum block so that is a factor. To each his own but my opinion is that 4.8's and 5.3's lack low end torque and simply painting at 150K mile junk yard engine without doing internals correctly is polishing a turd. It sounds like you know what your are doing and will do it right. There are a lot of swappers out there that aren't paying attention to the details like inclination angles, correct U joints, and chassis / driveline upgrades to handle the power. All of that takes money.Cheers and thanks for insight !
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 130
Likes: 9
$4500 running driving BMW 330ci
$350 LQ4 complete with ECU and harness
$2000 forged 408 reciprocating assembly
$160 Straub trunnion upgrade
$320 head machine work
$1100 block machine work, balance, and assembly
$100 BMW shop manual
Still have to buy all hardware, gaskets, car intake setup, T56, M3 rear end, swap mounts, swap headers ($1800 alone for those), flash GM ECU, accessories, accessory mounts, and all the other odds and ends. Will be pushing $20k when all is done I'd guess. My wife gave me the go to just buy a used Z06, but there are Vettes everywhere. Far fewer 408 BMWs, and even harder to pick out of a crowd...
$350 LQ4 complete with ECU and harness
$2000 forged 408 reciprocating assembly
$160 Straub trunnion upgrade
$320 head machine work
$1100 block machine work, balance, and assembly
$100 BMW shop manual
Still have to buy all hardware, gaskets, car intake setup, T56, M3 rear end, swap mounts, swap headers ($1800 alone for those), flash GM ECU, accessories, accessory mounts, and all the other odds and ends. Will be pushing $20k when all is done I'd guess. My wife gave me the go to just buy a used Z06, but there are Vettes everywhere. Far fewer 408 BMWs, and even harder to pick out of a crowd...
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 78
Likes: 3
From: Houston, Tx
Have had a few quotes , I don't mind getting a crate motor as I will be driving it for years to come but the area that seems a little Grey to me is the time it takes , I been told around 80 hours for 2'guys at 85 per hour I am looking for a guy to instal for around 30 and hour max and he better be good .... Lol
Cheers and thanks for insight !
Cheers and thanks for insight !
I'm in over 10K but refuse to use old crappy junk yard parts. I suppose if you want to do a hillbilly build with greasy corroded iron blocks and transmissions using mostly OEM components and a lot of custom fabrication work then you could stay under 2K. Just do a youtube search and you will find plenty of ghetto builds like that. Before I jumped on to the LS bandwagon I priced out my Oldspower W30 455 build with EFI. That would have easily been upwards of 15K with less desirable results. Another option is to buy a 50K Camaro but what fun is that?
Wiring is a big complaint of mine. A stock harness can be reworked in a day by someone with no experience, but people have no problems spending $650 on one. That's the same price as a V3 Microsquirt controller with plug and play harness.
There are SO many places people spend too much money on, when the same results can be had for half the price.
A lot of the cost is labor. I followed a guy on lat-g who documented the process of scratch building his own headers.
For my swap, I chose the jy route (5.3/4L60e). The combo performed better than the Pontiac 400/400 combo it replaced. I had a bit $6000 in the swap, but I also had to swap out the fuel tank; decided to change out the radiator; relocating the battery to the trunk; so some of the cost were not directly associated with the swap.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 130
Likes: 9
Yeah, I'm researching other options, but those are the only 1 7/8 inch long tubes that will fit an LS in that bay due to steering shaft interference. A lot of R&D expense is rolled up in the cost I'm sure. I'm in the beginning stages of what will be a year plus swap, so I have time.