I usually go to Speed Engineering's website and look for a header with a primary layout that matches what I will need to clear steering shafts/column shift linkages. They're pretty good about mix/matching headers for me.

The couple of times I've needed the headers to hug the block a little more (F-body headers on a G-body), I just cut the flanges off with a chop saw and had a local shop weld them back on at a 15 degree angle for $20/each.

 

Part of the problem is defining what is part of the LS swap and what expenses are just part of upgrading an old car. Decided from the getgo that subframe connectors were needed to handle the added torque. This of course uncovered some floor pan rot that had to be fixed. Once the motor was in it abruptly destroyed the rear struts, so now add in the cost of a suspension rebuild with coil overs to get stiffer spring rates to keep the V8 from constantly bottoming the rear. Somewhere along the line rust in the tank ate my fuel pump, so throw in the cost of a new pump and tank refurb. Had to do a good bit of rewiring to improve the 40 year old ammeter dash.

I think I ended up around $12k-$15k on my swap 10 years ago now. I could have spent less, but then I wouldn't have what I wanted. Half of that was just the price of a crate motor and new transmission. At the time LS2 motors had just come out and T56 transmissions of that era were both hard to come by and commonly needed an expensive rebuild. The new trans did come with both electronic and mechanical speedo drives allowing me to reuse all the stock gauges. That was a pretty significant cost saver.

I did all my own work, making my own mounts, accessory brackets and even dogleg shifter because no kit existed for what I was doing. Went with a carb because that is what I wanted, but in the end that was a pretty significant cost saving over the price of a FI crate motor. I did drop another $500 on a wideband to properly tune the carb.

I did splurge on a shop built mandrel bent SS exhaust, $1400, because by that point I really wanted it on the road. Also got an LSD unit and switched to CV halfshafts. While not absolutely needed for the swap they sure are nice to have and will probably save me money down the road. I also upgraded to 4 wheel disc brakes and bigger stub axles, again to better handle all the abuse. The rear discs have the benefit of keeping the wheel with the car should a stub axle break so again, an added expense that is really cheap insurance.

So yeah, swap a mild V8 into a relatively modern car and expenses will be less.

 

Insert whatever estimation you have here, double it and then some if you are prone to 'feature creep'. E.g. a simple 5g camaro diff swap turned into 'lets run a helical diff for the race track with cooling built in so I don' t have to replace clutch packs every now and then..' 4k z/28 diff later... 2k for the cnc cradles. Oh yeah you need new bearings and shafts and... yeah.

Just for the rear end ffs.

 

yeah project creep is very real. i learned a lot on my first swap, and probably the biggest thing is to make a plan outlining the scope of project. stick to the plan! guys that dont have a plan are always the ones losing interest and selling 5 years worth of accumulated mismatched crap.

a budget helps but there are always gonna be things that come up. for example:

i wanted my turbo truck to come in under 6k complete with 9", 4 link, crown vic FS, turbo & related and motor. i went over by ~1k and still dont have all the stuff I put in the budget like electronic boost control and a roll cage and e-power steering. my first tranny was a dud. had to scrap my returnless type fuel system.

 

A few things I know to be true:
It's never ending until the car is gone for good.
It's much, much higher than you think it is ($ amount spent) when you factor in transportation to go find stuff, shipping, power to turn on your shop lights, welder and compressor etc.
If you factor in your time, forget it, it's about $.050 an hr. return if you're lucky.

But, it's worth millions in therapy.

 

True statements

 

i tell my lady that "it's cheaper than the habits i used to have"

 

I was quoted $2500 for a stock but complete 6.0L LQ4 equipped with harness and 4L80e. That also includes them taking out my original 5.0L 305 that has 322K miles. only problem I've had with it was shifter cable went out on me but I was home. so is this a decent quote?

 

So you're saying someone is willing to do the swap, including all labor and hardware for $2500?

Andrew

 

I've seen pullouts alone cost that much.

 

My long block alone ran me $1500 because I didn't have a core to swap for it.

 

Built 408 no turbos...... almost 10k

 

I'm usually right at $2500 for a 5.3/4L60e swap into an older vehicle.
That's all parts included.

5.3 complete pullout with new:
-Head gaskets
-Lifters
-Valve springs
-Cam
-Cam retainer plate
-Oil pan
-Oil pickup tube
-Head bolts

4L60e gets new:
-Clutches
-Bands
-Gaskets
-Sun Shell
-Corvette Servo
-Filter
-Springs from shift kit.

This also includes:
-Swap mounts
-Shortened/lengthened driveshaft
-Wiring
-PCM tuning
-F-body fans
-Fuel lines
-Fuel pump
-Regulator/filter combo
-Relays.

 

Good ballpark info Joe!

 

Just trying to see about your build I have 98 Chevy truck I want to put my 2002 Chevy 5.3 motor into the 98 so what you think that would run me over all give or take on cost I want to put new headers cams the works on it this will be my first build I have nothing but time to do the build

 

Bought a 2000 Camaro Z28 with bad 4l60e for 1000, used ICT Billet brackets and bought Corvett ps pump and res, used holley mount system and headers and exhaust and oil pan Summit radiator, Jegs gauges and Holley Terminator x had heads redone and put bearings and rings timing chain oil pump and Dorman intake, and Ebay TB, Jegs cam push rods and Pac springs, rebuilt Trans with yank converter have right at 8600 in that, but have another butt load in brakes suspension and rear end, and paint. All that in a 1000-dollar S10

 

I'm closing in on $35k on my 3rd gen camaro build. And still need to fire it into the body shop once it drives