Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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1971 Nova Swap - 02 LS1/A4

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Old 12-23-2013, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Got a question.. I am trying to figure out what to do about my Nova drive line angle's.. the engine is 3* down (I can adjust it, got a little room).. but the Drive shaft is Zero degree (parrallel to the ground, not important, just noting). If I recall.. the pinion is currently 0 Degree (I will shim it to get the correct angle).

I have never dealed with a drive shaft angle of Zero (lucky up till now I guess), I have dealed with them usually at a downward angle from the trans to the pinion.. I could put the pinion to 3* up to match, but on power, that angle will most likely increase due to the torque. And I forsee issue down the road (?).

Couldn't find anyone that has put any posts or web articals with Zero drive shaft angle.. Any one have any links or suggestion on what to set the pinion angle in this case ?

Thanks Guys !.... Don't need a lot of chat on this. .just the facts..

BC

ps... btw.. didn't get around to getting the sound clip of the new exhaust sound yet..
I like the progress you're making on the car bczee. The description of your geometry scenario indicates to me that you're running a pretty good ride height drop over stock and as you've stated, that up-angle driveshaft situation will cause the angles to increase on acceleration and/or when the rear springs are in compression for any other reason. You can compensate by running less than the 3 degree engine inclination angle you have now (many pro-built in-the-weeds cars are running 0-2 degrees) but will find that difficult to do with the discrete installed height of the typical frame stand/swap plate nount set-up. I think I recall that you are using a 4L60 trans, correct? If so, the Hooker 1st-gen F-body/3rd-gen Nova clamshell retrofit mounts will allow you to acheive more up-angle adjustment at the rear of your transmission due to their lower installed height than that of the frame stand/mount combination.

I hope this gives you more options.
Old 12-23-2013, 11:50 AM
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BC I would leave as is. The pinion will usually climb 2-3 degrees on acceleration with a leaf sprung car. You will end up with equal and opposite ujoint angles which is what you want. Dont worry about the driveshaft angle.I have the same situation with my 68 Nova because I lowered the rear 1.5 inches. No vibrations to date with over 20K on the clock
Old 12-23-2013, 11:54 AM
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What kind of work have you done to the rear suspension? Do you have Cal Tracks or the like?
Old 12-23-2013, 12:17 PM
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Speedtigger - The Nova as a Hotchkis TVS 1.5" drive kit... Shocks moved inboard with a POL relocation it. built 8.5" rear, Nothing else...

Tood - thanks for the input.. Since I have all done.. I would perfer not to start again with the New Hooker setup.. (but it is a good option). I take another degree or so out of the engine.

Martycarguy - Thanks for the input.. I will at lease put 1 degree in the pinion/drive shaft (As recommended by all of the big driveline guys to at lease have for proper u-joint operations), hopefully that will be ok. Good to know your setup is working.

Thanks guys.

BC
Old 12-23-2013, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Speedtigger - The Nova as a Hotchkis TVS 1.5" drive kit... Shocks moved inboard with a POL relocation it. built 8.5" rear, Nothing else...

Tood - thanks for the input.. Since I have all done.. I would perfer not to start again with the New Hooker setup.. (but it is a good option). I take another degree or so out of the engine.

Martycarguy - Thanks for the input.. I will at lease put 1 degree in the pinion/drive shaft (As recommended by all of the big driveline guys to at lease have for proper u-joint operations), hopefully that will be ok. Good to know your setup is working.

Thanks guys.

BC
I can understand your desire to want to use what you have bczee and just wanted to throw the info out to you for your mental database for future options in case you need to do something different down the road.
Old 12-23-2013, 02:31 PM
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I know you are not a big drag race guy, but these help eliminate spring wrap:
http://www.calvertracing.com/caltracs.html
Old 12-23-2013, 02:40 PM
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Yeah.... a dozen or two runs down Sonoma would not lead me to be going the Calrac route.. as least not for now...LOL

Todd, I am in favor of the Holley setups... .but that will be for the next project.. but most likely it will be a one off swap.. (Got 79 G30 Van Swap kit? LOL).

I do have a Holley tech or person in the area that does come to my Friday Night GTG's... Liz Miles. So If I do need something, I can always ask her... I think she is working on the new Holley EFI Terminator system for her Camaro last I talked to her...

BC
Old 12-23-2013, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Yeah.... a dozen or two runs down Sonoma would not lead me to be going the Calrac route.. as least not for now...LOL

Todd, I am in favor of the Holley setups... .but that will be for the next project.. but most likely it will be a one off swap.. (Got 79 G30 Van Swap kit? LOL).

I do have a Holley tech or person in the area that does come to my Friday Night GTG's... Liz Miles. So If I do need something, I can always ask her... I think she is working on the new Holley EFI Terminator system for her Camaro last I talked to her...

BC
LS swap into a 79' 1-ton van? Uhhh, I'm afraid you're totally on your own for figuring the details of that one out!

I don't hear from Liz much these days, so say hello to her for me when you see her again.

Last edited by Toddoky; 12-23-2013 at 03:33 PM.
Old 12-23-2013, 03:07 PM
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BC check tomorrow on my thread as I will be posting the new Hooker mounts and x-member.

Maybe you are over thinking this to much? As Marty said, if it is just a weekend cruise car with the occasionally spirited drive it should be ok. I will let you know on my end once i put everything on, maybe even ask for some pointers.
Old 12-23-2013, 08:08 PM
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Check the Driveshaft shops website and they have good info on the angles. May help.
Old 12-23-2013, 08:34 PM
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Lookin good, that stable is nice!
Old 12-23-2013, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Yeah.... a dozen or two runs down Sonoma would not lead me to be going the Calrac route.. as least not for now...LOL
Well, then will just have to play with it a bit. You know the standard answer. Make the pinion angle the same as the engine/trans angle. Some of the drag guys take 2 degrees out so that it is closer to correct under acceleration. But, they don't care about cruising vibrations and such. That is why I suggested the Cal-Tracs. You can set it where it is supposed to be and axle-wrap will be diminished to the point where it is not a consideration.
Old 01-02-2014, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Yes. using the Inverted Flare to AN -6 adapters on the Radiator ports.
What/whose adapters are you using? I bought the Russel version and the threaded part going into the radiator is way too short. The inverted flare sealing surface is really deep in my radiator - not sure what yours looks like.
Old 01-02-2014, 12:37 PM
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Hmm... it was a while ago.. not sure what I remember or what they looked like as far as how long the threaded side is for the IF.. I know I usually use Russell's for most of my AN fittings and order them from Summit.. but I think I for these, I stopped by the local Speed Shop and just picked up the IF to AN adapters.. so I could return and exchange them if they didn't fit right... They might have been the XRP or Aeroquip brand.. I am using the stock 4th Gen Radiator..

The adapter is sealing and there is a gap of about 1/8" from the Nut to the Radiator ports. I has not leaked for the short time that I have had it running, so I think it is sealing ok.

What Radiator are you using ?

BC
Old 01-03-2014, 09:46 PM
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Default Exhaust Update

Got around to uploading the pictures from the Exhaust system.

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The Edelbrock Header do hang down a bit, so the pipe do hang down some too.
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It was a tight fit to get the bends to not hit anything.
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We where able to tuck the tail pipe up to be stealthy
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Here is the sound clip.
Open Header on the 1st startup. (I think I posted it before). you might need to turn the volume up as it didn't really pickup the sound as well as the other one.

With the 2 1/2", H-Pipe and Flowmaster Super 40's.

Also forgot about that P0102 MAF Code.. I found the problem. My bad.. I cut the Cxxx connectors out and forgot to wire the Pink wire for the MAF and others back to a Ign Hot circuit. I have 12 volts now. To late tonight to test and will do that in the morning. Before it was running pig rich... hopefully that will resolve most of the idle and well get into close loop now.

BC

Last edited by bczee; 01-03-2014 at 09:53 PM.
Old 01-04-2014, 07:08 AM
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Great job on the exhaust! Nice and even throughout. I like the location of the tail pipes but I am not sure how you ever fit them between the spring shackle and the body, that is amazing to me. I would never make it in the exhaust business! Something about welding in a circle be-fuddles me.
Old 01-04-2014, 10:52 AM
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Thanks for the reply regarding the radiator trans cooler fittings. I have a Griffin, OEM-style radiator. I think the tube nuts on the stock lines tend to have a long thread on them, but these adapter fittings don't. I'll keep searching around - there's bound to be something out there.

Excellent work on the exhaust. I think I put my FPR in a bad spot if I ever want to run tailpipes the way you did.
Old 01-06-2014, 11:38 AM
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BCZEE that sounds so sweet!!!!!
Old 01-09-2014, 10:11 PM
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Clint.. yeah.. I did something right..! I did planned ahead for Full Exhaust and mounted the FPR center on top of the Rear Pinion and did get some protection from the Shock cross member and the shield that I used to cover it.

Rocky.. thanks.. I do like the sound of the ***** Thumper Cam.. How goes the Mad ?? Still trying to push David to pick up a LS for his *****'s...

BC
Old 02-14-2014, 04:25 PM
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Default Wheels and Tires...

Finally got around to ordering and picking up the Wheels and Tires. Got them from a local shop that saved me a few dollars over just ordering them online (from Wheel Studio).

Got the RPM R505's silver and Polished and Nittos 555's
Fronts
18x8 (20mm Offsets) with 245x40x18
Rear
18x9 (20mm Offsets) with 275x35x18

These offsets were as close to what I could get for the price.

So.. finally got to see the stance, Has a little rake with the front being a bit lower. Looks like the front have a little contact at full lock only. Might have to put some stops on to avoid any damage or add a spring spacer to raise it a bit.


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So.. will finish up on the Brakes now.. got to check every fitting, put the front calipers on and then bleed the system. Hopefully I will get some time this weekend and then get a test drive !!!

BC


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