bczee

iTrader: (12)

Did some work on the fuel/intake and finished up most of the wiring. Wrapped the harness in Braided Split Sleeving.

Cleaned and painted the Fuel Rail, Welded a AN -6 Bung on to the Fuel Rail.


Cleaned and painted the LS6 intake


Wll run it out the back and down to the hardline later.


Engine harness and body harness wrapped up.






I ordered a Right Stuff SS Brake line kit and a few 3/8" SS Tubing for the Hard Lines of the Fuel system and transmission llines. Waiting for them to come in.

That it for now.

BC

69 Ghost

I have a similiar setup on a 69 with a 4th gen donar car. I used the factory brake lines in the front with a 3rd gen divider/proportioning valve and it bolts up directly to the master and brake lines in the front. For the back I used the back lines and reflaired the ends to the center divider at the rear diff. The only additional cost was an adapter from the proportioning valve to the rear line with a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve inbetween.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

69, yes..I read or saw that in your thread before, Usually check out many of the builds.... thanks for the tip. I wanted to replace the lines as the were getting rusted and looking pertty bad.

I expect the only other mod to the brake setupb will be the 4th gen master to th P-valve, as it use a bubble type flare and not an the standard 45 or 37 degree flare. Hopefully my Tubing and Hyd shop can put the flare on for me and I can avoid buy anything new tool for this.

I am going to try to go without a adjustable P-Valve for now. After I get it on the road and if I find out I need an adjustable one. I'll add it then. I have one on my Chevelle.

mdrn69velle

iTrader: (2)

Dude you got some skill .. if you ever come down to San Jose area stop by my garage may need help with the harness. Ill have plenty of cold beer

You going to the goodguys in two weeks?

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you've made a ton of progress over the last couple of months. Nice work!

I'm pretty sure Napa can put that bubble flare on for you or you can buy a length of tube that has the ends flared already

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Yeah.. slowly and in spurts, SS Brake line kit is on back order and looking for 3/8" SS tubing for the Fuel and Trans line are next up.

Been trying to get my Column Shifter to work, I've looked at both the Shiftworks and Lokar kit and have tried to clone the setup, but I have a line of site issue as both require for the column and the trans linkage. I have also make new adjustable rods with sperical rod ends, both times it seems I am tweaking the adjustments of the throw and indexing. But I'll get it working sooner or later.

But for the time being, I'll keep lurking on your guys threads..LOL

BC

kirk69nova

iTrader: (9)

Hey BC lurking on everyone's threads seems to be all that I can afford to do right now! Nothing wrong with getting educated is the way I look at it.

69 Ghost

If you have an original horseshoe shifter the shiftworks will work. The drive position on the OD trannies is not at the same location as the drive on the old 2/3 speed automatics. My guess is your line of sight issue is due to your exhaust/header setup. I was able to make mine work by rotating the mechanism bolted to the subframe. You may also need a longer rod. Another option is to cut the ears and reweld them back on depending on where they need to be. Mine clears everything and the shifter locks with the key. Also if you are still batteling the neutral/reverse light switch I used the factory switch from the 4th gen mounted to the outer portion of my shifter. Another option is to use the shift indicator on the newer vehicles. It mounts on the outer portion of the shifter itself. The wiring is directly to the PCM. It appears that GM did this to eliminate all the different shift indicators. This would eliminate all the other issues but you will have to wire it more like a newer car and completely bypass the neutral/safety switch.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

69, No, I am not using a center console shifter. I am as I noted in my Post, OEM Column Shifter. The line of site issue is that the Body/firewall is blocking the line and contacts the Rod.

Thanks for the comment anyway.

BC

69 Ghost

It is still the same issue. You can try to rotate the mechanism or cut off the ears and reposition them. GM made different mechanisms with different positions. I had another mechanism from years back and I am not sure which one I ended up using but one worked and one did not. I originally had a column shift in my car and bought a tilt column with a column shift and used that before I converted to the floor shifter. The mechanism is the same to the tranny regardless and it is used for both a floor and column shifter to lock the shifter with the key out. You will still have the gear indents off on the column with a column indicator but it will work for drive and reverse. If you look at the shiftworks page they have a setup for that called varishift they also show a picure of the neutral safety switch on the outside of the tranny. The 4th gen shaft is not quite as long as newer trannies with the switch but it will still work. I have one if you need it off a trailblazer 4l70.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

Just curious, but why do you want the column shifter? Are you trying to maintain originality, create a sleeper, save money, or do you have a special place in your heart for it?

69 Ghost

If Brian did not sell the console in his 4th gen he could convert the console to his car as another option. That would allow him to use the ebrake and eliminate the conversion of the brake cables. Just a thought.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

and Just being Different !

Maybe get some 17" steel wheels with dog disk hub caps !???
BC

67camNKC

iTrader: (3)

Bczee,

Have you addressed the fuel system yet? If so what tank & pump combo are you going with?


Shannon

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Shannon

Tank and pump will most likely be the TANKSINC w/Walbro 255 pump kit and a Vette FPR (GF822). But that will be after In do the lines for the Brakes, Trans and most of the Fuel lines.

I seem to be doing this project one step at a time.. as compared to when I did my Chevelle, I had that pretty much all planned out start to end. The Nova is just day to day and step by step.. with Lurking in between...LOL No rush.. lets see ??? work on Nova or Drive Chevelle !???

BC

kirk69nova

iTrader: (9)

BC
I have been looking for 16" or 17" steel wheels so I can put some dog dish caps on them. Where can I find them?
I like that look. Bench seat, column shifter, rocker mouldings, body color steel wheels with poverty caps and LS power!

67camNKC

iTrader: (3)

I understand! I'm on year 4 with my car and it's a year away. With two young boys at home and other hobbies to boot, I don't get much time on mine.

I'm now to the point of wondering what new stuff or what better ways of doing things are out there. Nice build and I'm subscribed to follow along.

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

I went to a floor shifter because I had on two occasions shifted from drive down to 1st (intending on 2nd) due the sort of floppy operation of the column shifter. It would be very interesting to see a ratchet type or gated column shifter to help prevent that and also incorporate a reverse lockout. You could potentially solve your problem by converting the linkage to a cable, but I don't know how that would be done. I take it the factory bell-crank/pivot linkage is not going to work due to header clearance?

As a side note, I think Bowtie Overdrives (and maybe others?) offers a 4 speed/overdrive overlay for the shift indicator in the gauge cluster.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Bandit

Yeah the Headers was a problem for the Pivot linkage, I was sable to move the pivot up about 1 1/2" on the frame and modified the lever by welding extra metal and bending around / over the Header collector. Still working with the adjustment of the lever ratio by using thread Sperical ends. I just need to drill some new holes into the frame and make sure I add any support brackets if needed.

Lokar does make a Column Cable kit to convert.

Shiftwork also makes the overlay for th eshifter indicator.

BC

-TheBandit-

iTrader: (1)

For cable conversion, I suppose this is what you're talking about for $130 (ouch!).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LOK-ACA-1804/

And this overlay?
http://www.shiftworks.com/lens.htm#universal

I found this looking for ways to make the column shifter less prone to miss shift. Maybe you can come up with a variation to help yours perform better, once you get the linkage figured out of course.
http://v8tvshow.com/component/option.../topic,5577.0/