I didn't do the Street and Performance mod as it put the push rod at a weird angle going into the master at full travel. My rod length was fine as I was only an 1/8"-1/4" from being perfect. A simple removal of the rubber bumper for a slight trim was all that was needed to make it work properly. To shorten the push rod would have involved a ton more work for such a simple fix. Sako if you are getting "pedal" you should be ok as long as the pressure doesn't change while you are holding it down. I say reverse bleed it and see what happens. If you are unsure how to do that just buy a cheap oil squirt gun and a short piece of rubber tubing. Fill the squirt gun with clean brake fluid, open the bleeder slightly, force the fluid from the gun into the bleeder via rubber hose, check to make sure you don't over fill the reservoir up top, and pump fluid back through the system until no bubbles are presnt in the reservoir. This usually works for most systems but can be a bit messy. I usually gravity bleed everything for longer than normal durations before I ever attempt to pressure or reverse bleed. Sort of my thing I guess. If you are getting pressure up top of the pedal and it remains constant through out the pedal travel, something is moving. If the slave is moving any with pressure the clutch should release. If you had pressure all the time I would be concerned the slave length was too long and something would need modifying. Did you install the correct pilot bearing in the crankshaft? There are two different types and if you used the wrong one maybe it is doing something with the input shaft. Usually the transmission won't mate correctly with the wrong one but who knows. Something is driving the input shaft whether it is the clutch or a direct link to the crank. Just a thought. Any pics of the pilot bearing going in before you mated the tranny?

 

Make sure the pedal comes back far enough so that the piston inside the master is actually stopping it from rearward travel rather than something in the pedal system. The slightest bit of travel limitation will hinder the bleeding process. The master doesn't receive fluid from the reservoir but at the most rearward position.

 

Tony thanks for all your help.
here are some pics of the flywheel and clutch. You can also see the pilot in there. Hope that helps.

 

Looks like the right pilot. Any luck bleeding it? You may need to call someone that sells the LS7 clutch to make you have the right components. This situation doesnt make sense to me.

 

I will try to bleed it tomorrow and will let you know what happens. I will unbolt the MC from the pedal to make sure the push rod comes out all the way out when Im bleeding it to make sure all the air is out. Before I bleed it on the car I will also bench bleed the MC again. Hope it works.

 

Hey Sako, I am just getting started with my 68 Camaro LS1/t56 build and I am worried about shifter placement and having to move my console back. I think I have the same seats as you and they are already a tight fit with the console in the stock location. How is the clearance after you moved the console back? I have been considering using a shifter relocation kit from a company I saw on one of these other threads. The name escapes me at the moment.

 

Here is the web page link from Tick.

http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ls...-applications/

It appears you have the right pilot bearing. I looked up both pilots listed in the description and you have the one for the LS1. They only difference I se is the fingers on the pressure plate itself but that shouldn't make much difference. What vehicle did the transmission come out of?

 

I have no problems with the clearance of the seats and center console. I can slide my seat back and forth without and rubbing. I really do not see any difference from how it was before I moved it back. You should be ok and the location of the shifter feels so much better than before. Im 6'3" and I had to move forward to shift when I my 4 speed.

 

Thanks for the link Tony.
My tranny came out of a 02 camaro. My clutch is a stock ls7 cltch but the teeth look different than the one Tick sells.
So after rebleeding the clutch again and again this weekend, it still was not going into gear. It felt like it was almost there and the pedal was not going back enough. So I took of the plastic cover that holds the carpet to the firewall and also removed the rubber boot from the pedal and my clutch went into gear. I was happy to drive it for the first time in about 2 and half years. The bad news is there is no way I can drive this thing like this. I have to press the clutch all the way to the floor to get it into gear. And as soon as I let out on the clutch just a bit the car jumps or it turn off.
Im not sure If it still has air in it, if the MC needs to be adjustable or there is not enough pressure to work the clutch properly.
Right now Im really thinking about getting the Tick MC but at $325 sounds ******* crazy to me.

 

Thanks for the shifter placement info Sako. I am also doing an aftermarket sub, so I will have to mock everything up anyway to see if I will have a problem.. It is good to know I can move it back if needed.

 

Sako.. not sure if it was asked before or checked. But have you measured the travel of the rod/piston ?.. an OEM Master should be just short of 1" of travel. Might be possible that the pedal is not pushing the rod the required 1" of travel ?..

BC

 

it looks like it goes in and out about an inch or so but its hard to see. There is definitely room for adjustments. I have two stock MC's, the new one thats on the car and a used one. I will make the used one adjustable and throw it in and see if that fixes the problem. If not, I might order the Tick. Yes, it is more time and work but I just cant fork out over $300 for that Tick MC.

 

How much travel do you have once tension is felt on the piston? I have mine around 1-1.250" under pressure. Since switching to the Wilwood my clutch seems to require less travel since the bore diameter is larger than stock. It does require a little more *** to push it though. The Tick m/c is nice and does fix a lot of the issues experienced with a stocker. That is why I made a bracket to use the Wilwood. I couldn't see spending another $300+ for something I could make for a few dollars plus the cost of the master. I think the master cost me less than $70. If you are not getting at least 1" of travel under pressure you will need to modify the push rod(lengthen or make adjustable) or reposition the mounting location of the push rod on the pedal. I am glad you had the opportunity to drive her! Well was the swap worth it? I know mine was well worth it. I may be a broke bastard now but I have a fast car!

 

From the description it sounds like you just don't have enough travel. You could potentially move the pivot point down some on the pedal arm to gain the needed travel as long as the operating angle is still acceptable. Alternatively you could modify the pedal arm to have more clearance for travel at the floor.

 

Well, I decided to pull out the MC and make it adjustable. I really do not want to take out the pedal and reweld it at different position. When I bolt up the MC to the pedal, it puts the pedal about an inch lower than where it should be. So by making the pedal shorter should lift the starting position of the pedal. Another problem that I noticed is that the bracket that mounts to the firewall (behind the Brake Master Cylinder) moves a bit when I push hard on the MC, in return takes away from the piston travel of the clutch MC. Im also not liking the angle of that rod, now that I took at it over and over.

Tony,
I feel tension as soon as I press on the pedal and the travel is about 1".
Of course its worth it man but its taken so much of my time away from family and work (creative art work). Its to a point where Im obsessed with it. I cant sleep sometimes because im thinking of what Im going to be work on the next day....lol. Being broke is no fun either.

here is a quick video of the test drive before I pulled the Master out again.
Open headers with cut out pipes.

 

Your video is set to "private" and I am not able to watch it. Man you had my hopes up!

 

oh **** my bad. let me fix it

 

Sako,
Thats a sick looking ride dude!

 

Thanks Jimbo

 

That's a beautiful site seeing your Camaro under its own power! Just in time to grab the last month of summer.