sako

I cant tell you how much i love my car and want to keep it and pass it down to my boy. But, I will sell it if it comes down to it.
Thats why I dont want to mess with the sub frame. I would only stretch the holes on the stands, bolt the drivetrain down but have it loose, line everything up and tighten it down and weld it maybe just one side of the engine stands. That way it will not move around and I can always grind it off if I have to move it. What do you think?
If these new stands do not work out thats what i will do.
By the way, the stands that i have on there now are from Goodmark and were brand new. When i bought the car it had the short/wide high performance ones on it. They are for sale if anyone needs them. I think they are the original ones.

firehawk68mcleod

iTrader: (2)

What crossmember are you running

Rocketrod

iTrader: (2)

I had similar issues, see link in my signature, with my engine mounts not lining up with the stands. I enlarged all the holes in the frame stands and engine mounts and left everything loose to get it too fit. Personally I would not weld the stands, I would just use grade 8 fasteners and tighten them down.

In a previous post he said, "The good news is i got the ATS cross member in there and it fits like a glove."

sako

Last Saturday was a very happy day for me guys. I finally got this thing nailed down. Last week I got my new stands from OER, but with my bad luck Summit sent me the wrong ones. They were the wide ones. So i will be sending them back. So I said screw it and did what i said I was going to do. I pulled the engine out, took off the mounts and went at it with the drill. I made the two top holes bigger so it would move around. I also had to sand the top of the engine stands to make it flatter because the long bolt hole was not lining up with the engine mount. I then bolted down the stands loosely and dropped the engine in.
Lined everything up, bolted down the ATS cross member and tightened the engine stands. After that we welded it in place.
Sorry for the crappy pics. I had to use my iphone because i forgot to bring my DSLR.

Rocketrod

iTrader: (2)

Looking good!! Doesn't it feels great to make some progress!!

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Job well done!! I bet thats a load off of your shoulders. Engine looks great sitting in the Camaro. I drove mine Sunday and love the torque of the LS!!! I was sliding my wife all over the car carving through some curves. The six speed is useless until you get around 55mph or faster with a 3.42:1 gear in the rear. 70mph turning 1700rpms!!!

sako

Thanks guys. Yes, its a great feeling. I know its not over yet...lol
I hope every thing else fits.
tsnow--Thats great man. I cant wait for that day. My wife saw the car the other day and said "so when will I get to drive it?"

sako

Hey Guys quick question, I was thinking of using this Hurst Shifter **** with a button to manually operate the Reverse Lockout Solenoid.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...hTerm=163-0052
My question is, is it possible to just connect that to the solenoid without connecting the harness/ECU to it? So every time i wanted to put it in reverse i can just hit the button and put it in reverse?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt waste the money on the ****. Tie the reverse lock out into your existing brake wiring. This way when you hit your brakes it automatically unlocks the reverse block. Thats what I am going to do as it was recommended to me by a reputable transmission builder. Simple wiring and no button. Save the button on the **** for a line lock or nitrous!!!

PS I dont have mine wired in at this moment and its not that bad getting it into reverse as is.

sako

That sound good to me tsnow, your the man.
Let me know how yours turns out.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I was also going to use the brake pedal switch method but I was wondering how that will affect the life of the reverse solenoid, as it will be activating every time you hit the brakes and what about when you are at a stop light with your foot constantly on the brake pedal and the solenoid activated for long periods. I do not have mine connected at all at the moment and it isn't that hard to put in reverse, I have also heard some say they need both hands to put it in reverse without the solenoid hooked up?

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I agree lizeec on the question of the reverse solenoid. I think it will be fine though. How is the factory wired? I assume it is tied into the brake switch also. I am sure you will wear out the tranny before the solenoid gives up. I will let you guys know for sure once I start to revamp my interior.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I read somewhere the PCM controls the activation of the solenoid by the brake switch as well but the difference is it is tied into the vss signal that has to be reading less than 3 mph for the PCM to let the brake switch signal send either the negative or positive voltage to the solenoid to activate it, I am not sure which one.

This is so if the vss is reading more than 3 mph the brake switch wouldnt be activating the solenoid during braking, but that doesnt make sense either because if you are at a stop light then it will activate the solenoid? Hell I am confused now maybe one of the harness builders can chime in.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

I am going to wire mine straight to the brake switch for ***** and giggles and see what happens. Next week possibly. Got to hear the 408 fire up first.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Ok good luck, I'm following your thread and I know as soon as you hear your motor fire up you are going to soil yourself.

sako

Lizeec: That was one of my concerns too. I really dont like the idea of the solenoid being activated every time you hit the break, but to me that would be the cheapest and easies way of doing it.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Yes I agree, but I would still like to know exactly how the reverse lockout works from the factory, I'm still hoping one of the wire harness guru's will chime in.

FRYNTYR

SAKO, you have any pics you can post of your front brake conversion assembled. I'd like to see how the caliper conversion brackets look.

I'm going to pull all the disc brake stuff off a 2002 and put on our 68

I'm following this thread as well as I'm using the LS-1/6 speed to. Be summer before I start dropping it in and am doing as much research as possible to make it go a little smoother.

Thanks,

sako

I have some pics of the front brakes assembled on the first page. If you need more let me know. I also have pics of the brackets before I put them on the car.Just let me know exactly what you want to see.
on the third page I have pics of the hubs and spindles machined for this setup.

tsnow678

iTrader: (3)

Any progresss with the swap?