Another ls1 Fox
01-31-2011, 09:05 PM
#41
Launching!
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Well my dad helped me do the wiring saturday. Thank God because by my own admission Im not great with wiring. I had the fan half wired up but he's a bit more thorough than me and he took the time to test the fans and make sure they would be pulling air instead of not pushing when wired. He also got the relay for the TC wired up and found out we needed a "normally open, normally closed" relay. We wired a regular 5 prong relay and for some reason I knew it wasnt correct. I had no idea what but I knew something wasnt right. Luckily hes good with wiring and after I told him what the relay needed to do he figured out the type of relay needed. I havent installed the relay yet but its now the last of the wiring left.
I also knew the fuel pump wasnt wired up right. When the key was turned I never heard the pump priming. Turns out the wiring diagram for the 89 mustang that i have is a bit different than my 91. Of all things to show the correct wiring was the Haynes manual lol.
My rear center brake line still hadnt quit leaking either. I ordered 4 new banjo washer from LRS and installed one on each side of the hose block. I tightened it down to line up the hole on the hose and bolt and was scared shitless that the bolt was going to snap from torque pressure. I checked it today and it doesnt show any signs of leaking so im hoping its finally fixed.
I wired the alternator and starter to the battery finally. In the process I found out the red/blue wire that runs to the solenoid was not getting any voltage. After doing everything I knew and tracing wires I figured out the wires were all dead ends, so of course I wasnt going to get power. So I spent saturday night checking more wiring diagrams and figured out the problem. All the diagrams I found show the white/pink wire coming off the ignition switch was going directly to the red/blue wire. Not exactly the case. The white/pink wire goes down to the transmission via the wiring I removed in a post above. This goes to the neutral safety switch and the from there turns into the red/blue wire which is hot to the solenoid when the clutch is pressed in. I hope this helps someone eventually. It may not make sense if you've never done the wiring on this car before but it will become 100% clear if you do.
When doing the starter wiring I needed to install the passenger side header to make sure the wires wouldnt get burnt up. So one header is installed lol. Surprisingly once i lifted the car it was installed in about 5 minutes. Hopefully the driverside will be just as easy. The bad thing is once the engine is heat cycled a few times Ill have to remove them to get v clamps welded on to make it a little easier on the guy doing my exhaust. Also my cat back came in monday. I opted for a magnaflow. They are pretty popular with ls1 guys but they quiet the car down a lot from what Ive heard. Eventually I may swap mufflers but ill see when that comes around. Im still trying to decide if I want to get electic cutouts installed as well.
I was told the TC would ship out this week so Im praying to have it by saturday. If I do Im going to try my hardest to have the car fired up on sunday. Screw the superbowl I hate both teams playing anyways lol.
Also Im looking for some connectors to redo the gauge plate. I really hate the way it looks and I know its going to bug the hell out of me if I dont make it look how I want as far as not being cluttered.
Heres the upper hose that worked perfectly.
Heres the lower hose. It had to be trimmed and the side that attaches to the thermostat housing was too small. I made it work but due to the different sizes on each side there may be better options out there.
Heres the relay that was needed for the TC.
Heres the power wire to the fuel pump on the 91. Its appears to be different for earlier year cars. Oh yea, all my wires are soldered and shrink wrapped not twisted and taped lol.
One the shock tower is where we mounted the relays for the fans. Not as hidden as I'd like but like i stated before its not a show car.
Heres a pic of the header installed. Its an extremely close fit to the side of the engine bay. Im hoping the engine doesnt shake much lol. Also that third heater hose is just used as a make shift sleeve to keep any extreme heat off the alternator wire. I may order some actual heat shield sleeves for the wiring.
Just a shot of the drivers side engine bay.
Heres my New Era intake. I need to adjust it to fit better but thats about the only place it will fit. Plenty of open room to suck in some cooler air though.
I wasnt feeling so great sunday so i didnt bother touching the car. I still need to figure out a place to mount the overflow tank also. I have no idea how im going to do that lol. You can see the radiator hoses good in this pic and the overflow tank is sitting on the engine bay wall on the left.
I also knew the fuel pump wasnt wired up right. When the key was turned I never heard the pump priming. Turns out the wiring diagram for the 89 mustang that i have is a bit different than my 91. Of all things to show the correct wiring was the Haynes manual lol.
My rear center brake line still hadnt quit leaking either. I ordered 4 new banjo washer from LRS and installed one on each side of the hose block. I tightened it down to line up the hole on the hose and bolt and was scared shitless that the bolt was going to snap from torque pressure. I checked it today and it doesnt show any signs of leaking so im hoping its finally fixed.
I wired the alternator and starter to the battery finally. In the process I found out the red/blue wire that runs to the solenoid was not getting any voltage. After doing everything I knew and tracing wires I figured out the wires were all dead ends, so of course I wasnt going to get power. So I spent saturday night checking more wiring diagrams and figured out the problem. All the diagrams I found show the white/pink wire coming off the ignition switch was going directly to the red/blue wire. Not exactly the case. The white/pink wire goes down to the transmission via the wiring I removed in a post above. This goes to the neutral safety switch and the from there turns into the red/blue wire which is hot to the solenoid when the clutch is pressed in. I hope this helps someone eventually. It may not make sense if you've never done the wiring on this car before but it will become 100% clear if you do.
When doing the starter wiring I needed to install the passenger side header to make sure the wires wouldnt get burnt up. So one header is installed lol. Surprisingly once i lifted the car it was installed in about 5 minutes. Hopefully the driverside will be just as easy. The bad thing is once the engine is heat cycled a few times Ill have to remove them to get v clamps welded on to make it a little easier on the guy doing my exhaust. Also my cat back came in monday. I opted for a magnaflow. They are pretty popular with ls1 guys but they quiet the car down a lot from what Ive heard. Eventually I may swap mufflers but ill see when that comes around. Im still trying to decide if I want to get electic cutouts installed as well.
I was told the TC would ship out this week so Im praying to have it by saturday. If I do Im going to try my hardest to have the car fired up on sunday. Screw the superbowl I hate both teams playing anyways lol.
Also Im looking for some connectors to redo the gauge plate. I really hate the way it looks and I know its going to bug the hell out of me if I dont make it look how I want as far as not being cluttered.
Heres the upper hose that worked perfectly.
Heres the lower hose. It had to be trimmed and the side that attaches to the thermostat housing was too small. I made it work but due to the different sizes on each side there may be better options out there.
Heres the relay that was needed for the TC.
Heres the power wire to the fuel pump on the 91. Its appears to be different for earlier year cars. Oh yea, all my wires are soldered and shrink wrapped not twisted and taped lol.
One the shock tower is where we mounted the relays for the fans. Not as hidden as I'd like but like i stated before its not a show car.
Heres a pic of the header installed. Its an extremely close fit to the side of the engine bay. Im hoping the engine doesnt shake much lol. Also that third heater hose is just used as a make shift sleeve to keep any extreme heat off the alternator wire. I may order some actual heat shield sleeves for the wiring.
Just a shot of the drivers side engine bay.
Heres my New Era intake. I need to adjust it to fit better but thats about the only place it will fit. Plenty of open room to suck in some cooler air though.
I wasnt feeling so great sunday so i didnt bother touching the car. I still need to figure out a place to mount the overflow tank also. I have no idea how im going to do that lol. You can see the radiator hoses good in this pic and the overflow tank is sitting on the engine bay wall on the left.
02-06-2011, 09:54 PM
#44
Launching!
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Well its been a long weekend of work. We got the trans installed saturday. It took about 4-5 hours to get it installed. It was just typical install troubles nothing related to the car or fitment issues. I got in the Yank 3200 converter and installed it before we mounted the trans, obviously. If you've never installed a converter make sure you find a good write up on what to do. It a little more involved than just slipping it onto the trans.
Anyways, I'll go over some issues I had and the things I got done this weekend. Once the trans was mounted the issues arose. The AJE crossmember doesnt exactly match up to the mounting holes on the trans. Ill have the fabricator who will be making my mid pipes work this out for me. Now its not to say that AJE made this wrong. I bought the crossmember second hand so its possible the guy that sold it to me lied about it being for a 4l60e. It could be for a different trans but theres nothing i can do about it now.
Some good news though. The modified ford aluminum driveshaft I bought actually fits perfect!!!
More kind bad news. The Lokar shifter I bought turned out to be the wrong one for my application. I bought their adjustable shifter. I should have bought the tailmount shifter. But I had no way of knowing that, although you now do so dont **** up like i did. Luckily Im a genius and was able to modify my shifter to work. Well, ok I kinda cheated and checked out pictures of the Lokar tailmount shifters. My shifter came with pretty much everything the tailmount shifter came with. The shifters are a little different but I made it work and seems to be fine. See below for details.
Remember this picture......well take off the shifter and all that was sitting under the trans tunnel except the very end closest to the tail of the trans. Once the trans was in I wasnt going to drop it again to remove this stuff. Luckily after some work I was able to remove the huge bracket and no its wasnt any fun.
On to the issue, for real this time. Heres what was able to be seen of that huge bracket from the inside, no bueno.
Now as you can see I simply reversed the tailmount bracket so the tabs face the rear. This is what the shifter will attach to.
If you look closely at the shifter you will notice the mounting tabs are offset towards the rear. They are also adjustable forward and backward. I flipped the tabs so the offset was greater towards the rear and then adjusted them as far back as possible.
Heres some pics of the all thread and its route to a disappointing finish to the shifter handle.
All this rearward adjustment allowed me to have the shifter sit pretty much perfectly in the stock location.
All this adjustment brought on another issue. The all thread that was supplied with the shifter kit is now not long enough to reach the trans. *sigh* but at least it will work. Also I found this out a few months ago. The bracket to attach to the trans did not work with my application. The bracket was shorter and had no offset like the factory one. I ended up having to drill out the factory bracket of the connecting rod and used that bracket. The top one is from Lokar, the lower is factory.
Now another issue. Where the bracket actually attaches to the trans. The clearance was really tight but nothing the persuader couldnt handle. Also in this picture you can see a black plastic thing. A connector goes there and there isnt enough room. It will take some persuasion as well but its pretty difficult to get in there. Not sure how im going to get in there but hopefully I have a long punch laying around in the tool box.
Also I didnt get a picture but the lines from the trans to the cooler wont fit due to the tight fit. The only way I can make those fit it to cut the trans tunnel. Since I dont have a welder Im going to get some sheet metal and make a patch using rivets and autobody sealer. Its wont be a very big hole so it shouldnt effect strength of the car.
Now with that out of the way I ran wires to the neutral safety switch. The connector below has a white and pink wire coming from the ignition switch. This gives the starter power when the key is turned. This wire on a factory harness goes to the trans and turns into the red/blue wire. That red/blue wire was what I wired to the other side of ther neutral safety switch. The neutral switch for those curious is on the shifter. You can probably see it on some of the pics.
Just a pic of the wire routing. I had it follow the wiring to the center of the trans tunnel and just taped it up to hide it. You can see the two wires at the shifter hole.
I finished the wiring to the starter and the other distribution box on the drivers side. You can see it mounted where the factory battyer is usually at.
Im hoping to have the car fired up next sunday. Also I took the gauge cluster out to rewire it. I bought some interlocking connectors to make everything a little easier to remove and a little neater.
Almost forgot the mention the factory trans dipstick and tube fit rather well in the mustang. You can see it on the rear of the pasenger head. I put two ground from the engine to the chassis as well. Better safe than sorry. Im sure theres a few small things im forgetting.
Anyways, I'll go over some issues I had and the things I got done this weekend. Once the trans was mounted the issues arose. The AJE crossmember doesnt exactly match up to the mounting holes on the trans. Ill have the fabricator who will be making my mid pipes work this out for me. Now its not to say that AJE made this wrong. I bought the crossmember second hand so its possible the guy that sold it to me lied about it being for a 4l60e. It could be for a different trans but theres nothing i can do about it now.
Some good news though. The modified ford aluminum driveshaft I bought actually fits perfect!!!
More kind bad news. The Lokar shifter I bought turned out to be the wrong one for my application. I bought their adjustable shifter. I should have bought the tailmount shifter. But I had no way of knowing that, although you now do so dont **** up like i did. Luckily Im a genius and was able to modify my shifter to work. Well, ok I kinda cheated and checked out pictures of the Lokar tailmount shifters. My shifter came with pretty much everything the tailmount shifter came with. The shifters are a little different but I made it work and seems to be fine. See below for details.
Remember this picture......well take off the shifter and all that was sitting under the trans tunnel except the very end closest to the tail of the trans. Once the trans was in I wasnt going to drop it again to remove this stuff. Luckily after some work I was able to remove the huge bracket and no its wasnt any fun.
On to the issue, for real this time. Heres what was able to be seen of that huge bracket from the inside, no bueno.
Now as you can see I simply reversed the tailmount bracket so the tabs face the rear. This is what the shifter will attach to.
If you look closely at the shifter you will notice the mounting tabs are offset towards the rear. They are also adjustable forward and backward. I flipped the tabs so the offset was greater towards the rear and then adjusted them as far back as possible.
Heres some pics of the all thread and its route to a disappointing finish to the shifter handle.
All this rearward adjustment allowed me to have the shifter sit pretty much perfectly in the stock location.
All this adjustment brought on another issue. The all thread that was supplied with the shifter kit is now not long enough to reach the trans. *sigh* but at least it will work. Also I found this out a few months ago. The bracket to attach to the trans did not work with my application. The bracket was shorter and had no offset like the factory one. I ended up having to drill out the factory bracket of the connecting rod and used that bracket. The top one is from Lokar, the lower is factory.
Now another issue. Where the bracket actually attaches to the trans. The clearance was really tight but nothing the persuader couldnt handle. Also in this picture you can see a black plastic thing. A connector goes there and there isnt enough room. It will take some persuasion as well but its pretty difficult to get in there. Not sure how im going to get in there but hopefully I have a long punch laying around in the tool box.
Also I didnt get a picture but the lines from the trans to the cooler wont fit due to the tight fit. The only way I can make those fit it to cut the trans tunnel. Since I dont have a welder Im going to get some sheet metal and make a patch using rivets and autobody sealer. Its wont be a very big hole so it shouldnt effect strength of the car.
Now with that out of the way I ran wires to the neutral safety switch. The connector below has a white and pink wire coming from the ignition switch. This gives the starter power when the key is turned. This wire on a factory harness goes to the trans and turns into the red/blue wire. That red/blue wire was what I wired to the other side of ther neutral safety switch. The neutral switch for those curious is on the shifter. You can probably see it on some of the pics.
Just a pic of the wire routing. I had it follow the wiring to the center of the trans tunnel and just taped it up to hide it. You can see the two wires at the shifter hole.
I finished the wiring to the starter and the other distribution box on the drivers side. You can see it mounted where the factory battyer is usually at.
Im hoping to have the car fired up next sunday. Also I took the gauge cluster out to rewire it. I bought some interlocking connectors to make everything a little easier to remove and a little neater.
Almost forgot the mention the factory trans dipstick and tube fit rather well in the mustang. You can see it on the rear of the pasenger head. I put two ground from the engine to the chassis as well. Better safe than sorry. Im sure theres a few small things im forgetting.
02-06-2011, 11:07 PM
#47
Launching!
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Thanks. It took me a few weeks of looking through pictures to figure out I liked those rims. I need to post up more pics since installing the drivetrain. The car has settled in the front and rear a little so the car has a meaner stance.
02-13-2011, 09:15 PM
#49
Launching!
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I got a lot done this weekend. The trans cooler lines are now hooked up which was a bit of a pain in the ***. The connector I couldnt make fit is installed. The trans tunnel had to be cut a little like I said would be require last week. FYI when doin this swap beat the hell out of the front 1/4 of the tunnel before installing trans and it will save a lot of time.
I got the gauges rewired and the dash is looking a lot better with the molex conectors being used now. The passenger side fender liner is finally in LOL yea it took me a while to do that.
I attempted to do some dry starts, so to speak, to test the starter and the wiring. This didnt turn out too good. As you can see in some previous pics I had the starter wring running through a fused distribution block. Well after removing and testing the starter it turned out that it wasnt the problem. So I got to thinking on the way back from the parts store. Maybe the neutral safety switch was hooked up wrong. After checking that and a few other things I was stumped. For some reason I decided to check the wiring on the fuse block and noticed one of the fuses had blown. I replaced it and it popped again after trying to start it up. So I got some left over 2 awg wire and put it in there and it turned over without any issues.
I got the headers mounted up and Ill have to have the trans mount modified to clear the headers and of course to allow the trans to be attached to the crossmember since they dont fit that perfectly. The overflow tank is mounted on the passenger side shock tower also.
I took off tomorrow to finish up some odd and ends finished up. I still havent wired up the tc relay and I need to make room in the trans tunnel to clear the shifter linkage and get that connected tomorrow.
Seems like im forgetting something...........
Oh yea, I got the car fired up for the first time this evening. The gauges read perfectly, oil pressure was at 50, voltage was reading 16, rpms at idle ranged from 400-600. The car obviously needs a tune and is running rich. The video doesnt do i justice. At the end you can hear my dad yelling over the engine lol. I knew it would be loud but damn the car sounded like a ******* beast. We honestly thought someone would call the cops cause it was so loud. The only issue we might have was the fans never kicked on. We let the car get to 210 before shutting it off. Ill have to look up this problem and see. Its possible the fans dont kick on until the car gets hotter. Anyways enjoy......my 5.0 has never sounded the awesome lol.
Not sure which link will work so im posting two.
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...t=8a03723f.mp4
I got the gauges rewired and the dash is looking a lot better with the molex conectors being used now. The passenger side fender liner is finally in LOL yea it took me a while to do that.
I attempted to do some dry starts, so to speak, to test the starter and the wiring. This didnt turn out too good. As you can see in some previous pics I had the starter wring running through a fused distribution block. Well after removing and testing the starter it turned out that it wasnt the problem. So I got to thinking on the way back from the parts store. Maybe the neutral safety switch was hooked up wrong. After checking that and a few other things I was stumped. For some reason I decided to check the wiring on the fuse block and noticed one of the fuses had blown. I replaced it and it popped again after trying to start it up. So I got some left over 2 awg wire and put it in there and it turned over without any issues.
I got the headers mounted up and Ill have to have the trans mount modified to clear the headers and of course to allow the trans to be attached to the crossmember since they dont fit that perfectly. The overflow tank is mounted on the passenger side shock tower also.
I took off tomorrow to finish up some odd and ends finished up. I still havent wired up the tc relay and I need to make room in the trans tunnel to clear the shifter linkage and get that connected tomorrow.
Seems like im forgetting something...........
Oh yea, I got the car fired up for the first time this evening. The gauges read perfectly, oil pressure was at 50, voltage was reading 16, rpms at idle ranged from 400-600. The car obviously needs a tune and is running rich. The video doesnt do i justice. At the end you can hear my dad yelling over the engine lol. I knew it would be loud but damn the car sounded like a ******* beast. We honestly thought someone would call the cops cause it was so loud. The only issue we might have was the fans never kicked on. We let the car get to 210 before shutting it off. Ill have to look up this problem and see. Its possible the fans dont kick on until the car gets hotter. Anyways enjoy......my 5.0 has never sounded the awesome lol.
Not sure which link will work so im posting two.
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...t=8a03723f.mp4
02-13-2011, 11:39 PM
#51
Launching!
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Yea i was so happy and relieved. This was my first build and first time doing any kind of engine work. I know its not a big deal to a lot of people since they do a lot of builds but being my first its a great sense of accomplishment.
02-14-2011, 06:49 PM
#54
Launching!
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LOL yea its gonna be hard to not smash the gas pedal at first. I have to drive it easy for the first 150 miles to break in the torque converter and the new clutch packs in the diff. After that its getting tuned then it ***** out lol.
02-15-2011, 05:59 PM
#55
Staging Lane
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Great build man the car looks awesome very helpful info also.
I have a quick question about how the rus 640830 fitting attaches to the stock mustang sending unit it looks threaded when I look the part up how excatly does it attach to the sending unit?
I have a quick question about how the rus 640830 fitting attaches to the stock mustang sending unit it looks threaded when I look the part up how excatly does it attach to the sending unit?
02-15-2011, 08:20 PM
#56
What hood are you using to clear that air cleaner setup? 
I got a lot done this weekend. The trans cooler lines are now hooked up which was a bit of a pain in the ***. The connector I couldnt make fit is installed. The trans tunnel had to be cut a little like I said would be require last week. FYI when doin this swap beat the hell out of the front 1/4 of the tunnel before installing trans and it will save a lot of time.
I got the gauges rewired and the dash is looking a lot better with the molex conectors being used now. The passenger side fender liner is finally in LOL yea it took me a while to do that.
I attempted to do some dry starts, so to speak, to test the starter and the wiring. This didnt turn out too good. As you can see in some previous pics I had the starter wring running through a fused distribution block. Well after removing and testing the starter it turned out that it wasnt the problem. So I got to thinking on the way back from the parts store. Maybe the neutral safety switch was hooked up wrong. After checking that and a few other things I was stumped. For some reason I decided to check the wiring on the fuse block and noticed one of the fuses had blown. I replaced it and it popped again after trying to start it up. So I got some left over 2 awg wire and put it in there and it turned over without any issues.
I got the headers mounted up and Ill have to have the trans mount modified to clear the headers and of course to allow the trans to be attached to the crossmember since they dont fit that perfectly. The overflow tank is mounted on the passenger side shock tower also.
I took off tomorrow to finish up some odd and ends finished up. I still havent wired up the tc relay and I need to make room in the trans tunnel to clear the shifter linkage and get that connected tomorrow.
Seems like im forgetting something...........
Oh yea, I got the car fired up for the first time this evening. The gauges read perfectly, oil pressure was at 50, voltage was reading 16, rpms at idle ranged from 400-600. The car obviously needs a tune and is running rich. The video doesnt do i justice. At the end you can hear my dad yelling over the engine lol. I knew it would be loud but damn the car sounded like a ******* beast. We honestly thought someone would call the cops cause it was so loud. The only issue we might have was the fans never kicked on. We let the car get to 210 before shutting it off. Ill have to look up this problem and see. Its possible the fans dont kick on until the car gets hotter. Anyways enjoy......my 5.0 has never sounded the awesome lol.
Not sure which link will work so im posting two.
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...t=8a03723f.mp4
I got the gauges rewired and the dash is looking a lot better with the molex conectors being used now. The passenger side fender liner is finally in LOL yea it took me a while to do that.
I attempted to do some dry starts, so to speak, to test the starter and the wiring. This didnt turn out too good. As you can see in some previous pics I had the starter wring running through a fused distribution block. Well after removing and testing the starter it turned out that it wasnt the problem. So I got to thinking on the way back from the parts store. Maybe the neutral safety switch was hooked up wrong. After checking that and a few other things I was stumped. For some reason I decided to check the wiring on the fuse block and noticed one of the fuses had blown. I replaced it and it popped again after trying to start it up. So I got some left over 2 awg wire and put it in there and it turned over without any issues.
I got the headers mounted up and Ill have to have the trans mount modified to clear the headers and of course to allow the trans to be attached to the crossmember since they dont fit that perfectly. The overflow tank is mounted on the passenger side shock tower also.
I took off tomorrow to finish up some odd and ends finished up. I still havent wired up the tc relay and I need to make room in the trans tunnel to clear the shifter linkage and get that connected tomorrow.
Seems like im forgetting something...........
Oh yea, I got the car fired up for the first time this evening. The gauges read perfectly, oil pressure was at 50, voltage was reading 16, rpms at idle ranged from 400-600. The car obviously needs a tune and is running rich. The video doesnt do i justice. At the end you can hear my dad yelling over the engine lol. I knew it would be loud but damn the car sounded like a ******* beast. We honestly thought someone would call the cops cause it was so loud. The only issue we might have was the fans never kicked on. We let the car get to 210 before shutting it off. Ill have to look up this problem and see. Its possible the fans dont kick on until the car gets hotter. Anyways enjoy......my 5.0 has never sounded the awesome lol.
Not sure which link will work so im posting two.
http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...t=8a03723f.mp4
02-21-2011, 08:09 AM
#59
Launching!
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Not many pics to update with today since it was a bit of a rush this weekend. Saturday was spent finishing up the shifter. After some thinking I didnt really like the way the shifter connected to the trans lever......using allthread. So I ordered a cable some endlinks and brackets to make the cable work with the shifter. Ill get some pics later but it definitaly works better than the original way. Also I dont recommend a Lokar shifters with this application. The shifter is very hard to shift into gears, it always has been even not connected to the trans. Im hoping it will wear in and become easier. B&M make a shifter specifically for the fox bodies that can be modified to fit the 4l60e. If this shifter doesnt start getting smoother to operate Ill be buying one and modifying it to work with my trans.
I also swapped the Russell brand center brake hose with one from MM. For the life of me I couldnt get the Russell to seal at the chassis or at the brakelines. The MM seems to be holding up fine but time will tell. After that I got the driveshaft bolted up......then work called and I had to go in for a few hours. It was already about 530 so i didnt lose too much time.
Today was very busy. I took the other mustang over and swapped the stock LCA's on the cars. Talk about a bitch, it would have been easier to just order some new ones lol. But I got it done. While I was doing that I took the rear rotors to get turned finally. Also upon closer inspection I noticed I put the rear calipers on backwards, which meant I had to loosen the emergency brake cable at the spliter under the car so I could remove the calipers. So after all that got done I removed the front rotors to get them turned while I reinstalled the rear brake stuff. Once that was done I picked up the front rotors and reinstalled them, then rebled the entire system.
Next I started on getting the steering shaft bolted up. I bought a Flaming River shaft and damn its a tight fit but it works. I bought a replacement low profile knuckle for the lower section of the shaft to help clear the headers. I had a hell of a time bolting it up because the steering column section where the shaft bolts on was retracted into the assembly. It took some time working in a very tight space to get it out enough to bolt up. Then it turns out the steering wheel isnt straight :facepalm: but the manual rack im using and the aftermarket k member make it very easy to unbolt and adjust so Ill fix it before I take it in for alignment.
After that I started getting the interior put back in. Although it was getting dark I got the front seats in and the rear seats have been installed for a while. So sometime this week its getting towed to the fabricator to fix the crossmember and to get the exhaust done. Then from there it should be fine to drive. I still need to install the center console then the car should be "done". Of courser little stuff is bound to pop up. After I put on the 150 breakin miles for the TQ converter and rearend Ill be taking it to get tuned then ill be ready to do some serious driving!!!
My b-day is on the 29th (yea i know theres not a 29th this year) so im hoping for it to be on the road in time as a present to myself.
I also swapped the Russell brand center brake hose with one from MM. For the life of me I couldnt get the Russell to seal at the chassis or at the brakelines. The MM seems to be holding up fine but time will tell. After that I got the driveshaft bolted up......then work called and I had to go in for a few hours. It was already about 530 so i didnt lose too much time.
Today was very busy. I took the other mustang over and swapped the stock LCA's on the cars. Talk about a bitch, it would have been easier to just order some new ones lol. But I got it done. While I was doing that I took the rear rotors to get turned finally. Also upon closer inspection I noticed I put the rear calipers on backwards, which meant I had to loosen the emergency brake cable at the spliter under the car so I could remove the calipers. So after all that got done I removed the front rotors to get them turned while I reinstalled the rear brake stuff. Once that was done I picked up the front rotors and reinstalled them, then rebled the entire system.
Next I started on getting the steering shaft bolted up. I bought a Flaming River shaft and damn its a tight fit but it works. I bought a replacement low profile knuckle for the lower section of the shaft to help clear the headers. I had a hell of a time bolting it up because the steering column section where the shaft bolts on was retracted into the assembly. It took some time working in a very tight space to get it out enough to bolt up. Then it turns out the steering wheel isnt straight :facepalm: but the manual rack im using and the aftermarket k member make it very easy to unbolt and adjust so Ill fix it before I take it in for alignment.
After that I started getting the interior put back in. Although it was getting dark I got the front seats in and the rear seats have been installed for a while. So sometime this week its getting towed to the fabricator to fix the crossmember and to get the exhaust done. Then from there it should be fine to drive. I still need to install the center console then the car should be "done". Of courser little stuff is bound to pop up. After I put on the 150 breakin miles for the TQ converter and rearend Ill be taking it to get tuned then ill be ready to do some serious driving!!!
My b-day is on the 29th (yea i know theres not a 29th this year) so im hoping for it to be on the road in time as a present to myself.
