LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
#41
Pic of the spacers made for the alt. bracket. I didnt feel the need to make them any larger in diameter as the bracket has only a small contact patch with the head. I made 2 spacers smaller in diameter one on purpose and one a tool give up on me as I was turning it down. They are 1.620" in length. All four are the same length. The smallest diameter is 1" and that is due to it being at the bottom of the head next to the W/P.[IMG][/IMG]
#42
Pic of my water pump spacers I made. Nothing fancy but they work great. I did however need an extra set of gaskets and longer bolts. I purchased stainless bolts for the W/P. The other spacers pictured are for the tensioner. They are .950" in diameter and 1" long.[IMG][/IMG]
#50
Here are the part numbers for the bracket, idler, and tensioner. A total cost of $200.62. Not to bad. These are the same used in GM's FEAD corvette kit. I wish I had taken the time to remove the flash from the bracket but oh well. Maybe next time.[IMG][/IMG]
#52
The spacers were used to line the flat protion of the pulley on the W/P inline with the truck crank pulley. When I find a donor car or buy a new F body crank pulley I will not need the spacers. It was sort of a simple inexpensive fix to my situation. Once I get the appropriate crank pulley I will try to eliminate all spacers.
#53
I am not 100% sure of which W/P will workk with the brackets I purchased. I know the brackets originally came on a 2008 Corvette if that helps. I liked the outlet location and the pulley design on the GTO that and the price is a mere $135 brand new with a lifetime warranty.
#54
I'm in your boat. I've done a lot of reading. Car Shop 1 inch back plates seem to work with dynatechs. I am hoping the autokraft pan works as well as the kwik brackets. I will know very soon.
#55
Future= your the reason I got motivated to spend hours down in the garage in the first place. I looked at that van and thought "if something good could be salvaged out of that wreck" than I should be able to make all of this work. I must admit I was getting lazy looking at the stocker on my engine stand and knew as soon as I broke loose the first bolt it was going to be no rest for the wicked. Sure enough got 4 hours of sleep last night and will be short changed again tonight for sure if my oil pan comes in. It would be nice to get all of stuff in today and maybe I can post some pictures of me shoehorning this ol' boy in. I like the custom pan like you ordered I just wanted a higher capacity. I am using a Melling HV pump and was afraid of oil starvation. Whoever took the time to design that pan from AutoKrafters is a genius and GM should hire them to do all of their swap items. Hopefully the Dynatechs work out. I have the engine located at standard now and will give that a shot and go from there. Will prolly go to 1" back but we'll see. Good luck on your build. Glad to see another Camaro being brought back, good job!!!
#56
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
I like the idea of having the low mount a/c compressor. But, like you, as I get closer to completion, the idea of re-engineering and creating custom motor mounts is very unappealing. So, I will be going with the Kwik a/c brackets. I just don't like that they look like aftermarket. I like the factory look.
If I were to re-engineering the motor mount brackets, I might use my factory Buick frame pads as they are centered instead of offset like the Chevy frame pads. The would allow the the use of the factory Corvette A/C brackets. However, I think I have read that the A-body engine crossmembers have to be cut to clear the compressor. I don't know if this is true of the F-bodies.
I will be watching to see what you come up with.
If I were to re-engineering the motor mount brackets, I might use my factory Buick frame pads as they are centered instead of offset like the Chevy frame pads. The would allow the the use of the factory Corvette A/C brackets. However, I think I have read that the A-body engine crossmembers have to be cut to clear the compressor. I don't know if this is true of the F-bodies.
I will be watching to see what you come up with.
#58
Thanks Sanndego. I cleaned up the coil packs and used my new stainless hardware to attach the coils to the brackets and then to the valve covers. I had thought about relocating the coils but the simplicity of them in the original location is hard to beat. I put the plugs back in that came with the engine for the time being until I do a little investigating. I have read to use NGK plugs but I cannot remember the number right off hand. There were two plugs suggested one for n/a and one for power adders. Oil pan is delayed for at least a day or so. I ordered it through a local performance shop and got some bad news. I found out that Moroso shuts down for two weeks during the holidays. May end up ordering it through Summit tomorrow. Headers will be here tomorrow for sure. The IAC will be here by weeks end. Getting closer and closer. Hopefully I can button up the engine this weekend and maybe a trial fit. I will post some new pics on Wednesday. I will have to pause for a few days and help out my neighbor rebuild the front end on his VW Rabbit diesel. Now thats a different animal all together.
#59
Speedtigger= Need to get yours running no later than the next GoodGuys show in Charlotte, N.C. You pay the $60 sign up fee for a membership to GoodGuys and they let you take a 2 1/2 lap run around the Lowes Motor Speedway. Just dont pass the red truck that leads. We can hang back and run em down the straights if you would like. The guy I was telling you about with the cancer got to take his 66 Chevy II around it several times. People that knew him gave them their tix so he could stay out there. He said he topped 115 at times and had a blast.
#60
Awsome!!!I'm doing an ls1 swap with Texas speed stage 2 243 heads and 228r cam into my 68 camaro!I'll be posting pics soon!getting ready to pull old motor and re assemble the ls1!!what are u using for a radiator???