LQ4/T56 into my 69 Camaro
02-03-2011, 07:06 AM
#241
69-er, I work FCE, Flight Crew Systems, we stow everything in the crew module, suits food, payloads, etc,
Tango, my buddy work for Dyna corp there, NASA copters, now he's at the SLF hanger, he's a drag racer, you might know him,
Tony, thanks for letting us abuse your thread to talk Space Shuttle stuff, and if you ever have a hard time getting parts, PM got a great GM guy here, and I have good parts guys who usually get me anything and everything, good prices,
The fire wall looks great!!! going to do the same to mine soon, since I had it done, then decided to change to a LSX, DSE plate, C5 booster/master, and fill the holes!!!!
guys we can take the shuttle stuff to my thread,
Tango, my buddy work for Dyna corp there, NASA copters, now he's at the SLF hanger, he's a drag racer, you might know him,
Tony, thanks for letting us abuse your thread to talk Space Shuttle stuff, and if you ever have a hard time getting parts, PM got a great GM guy here, and I have good parts guys who usually get me anything and everything, good prices,
The fire wall looks great!!! going to do the same to mine soon, since I had it done, then decided to change to a LSX, DSE plate, C5 booster/master, and fill the holes!!!!
guys we can take the shuttle stuff to my thread,
02-04-2011, 05:24 PM
#242
02-04-2011, 08:49 PM
#243
TECH Resident
I really have enjoyed this build and am gathering my "Stuff" to finish my 69. Just wanted to let you know that if you want (need) to use compression fittings Swagelock or Parker-Hannifin fittings are used in industrial (Power Plants- refineries) applications all the time. As long as you follow their instructions they are first class and fast but they are pricey. Bill
02-04-2011, 09:41 PM
#244
Appreciate it Cookseyb! I am only using one compression fitting. It is on the return line to the tank from the filter/regulator. I didnt know any other way to seal it off at the tank outside of taking the entire assembly to the hydrualic shop and have an AN- fitting brazed on. I figure there is not much pressure on this line so we will see how it turns out. I appreciate the information and will reference back to it if need be.
I received my clutch master cylinder adapter today and it is nice. Powdercoated and clean finish. $35 shipped to my house. I purchased several items today and will try to make some progress over the next couple of days. I am going to order my CPP master cylinder in the morning. I was going to use the Wilwood but opted for the CPP for a couple of reasons. It is $189 versus $245. It has a built in metering valve, proportioning valve and brake switch. All in one sweet looking piece. This way I can run new lines along the frame up the firewall and under the master cylinder. No lines will be hanging off the sides for a cleaner look. Plus it has a lifetime warranty. I've got the radiator, fans and shroud, clutch line, and other miscellaneous items set aside in my cart ready to push the button. I will send out my order hopefully along with the master tomorrow.
I received my clutch master cylinder adapter today and it is nice. Powdercoated and clean finish. $35 shipped to my house. I purchased several items today and will try to make some progress over the next couple of days. I am going to order my CPP master cylinder in the morning. I was going to use the Wilwood but opted for the CPP for a couple of reasons. It is $189 versus $245. It has a built in metering valve, proportioning valve and brake switch. All in one sweet looking piece. This way I can run new lines along the frame up the firewall and under the master cylinder. No lines will be hanging off the sides for a cleaner look. Plus it has a lifetime warranty. I've got the radiator, fans and shroud, clutch line, and other miscellaneous items set aside in my cart ready to push the button. I will send out my order hopefully along with the master tomorrow.
02-06-2011, 06:47 AM
#245
I am doing a very similar swap in my 1968 Camaro, except instead of a T56, I'm going with a 4l80e.
I've just ordered the LS3 heads (which are the same as the l92, but with higher lift springs and lighter valves) and an LS3 intake (2010 SS, just like yours) just arrived in the mail. I haven't test fit the intake. Did the intake leave enough room for the sensors to the rear of the engine?
Also, (coming from a carb set up) - it seems there are so many different sensors on the engine. Are you aware of a resource that identifies each sensor?
Thanks!
I've just ordered the LS3 heads (which are the same as the l92, but with higher lift springs and lighter valves) and an LS3 intake (2010 SS, just like yours) just arrived in the mail. I haven't test fit the intake. Did the intake leave enough room for the sensors to the rear of the engine?
Also, (coming from a carb set up) - it seems there are so many different sensors on the engine. Are you aware of a resource that identifies each sensor?
Thanks!
02-06-2011, 10:29 AM
#246
The intake fits perfect. It allows for the oil pressure sender and the cam positioning sensor to be installed with out a problem. It also leaves room for the knock sensors and valley cover bolts. As far as sensors go, first we need to know exactly what year the engine is. You will need the following sensors, I may miss a couple and hope someone jumps in to correct me.
1)If DBW you will not need the TPS and IAC but if DBC you will
2) 2- knock sensors under the intake
3) cam positioning sensor
4) crank sensor
5)oxygen sensors
6)MAP sensor-do not use the ls3 sensor you will need the one off of the truck intake or equivalent
7) MAF sensor
8)coolant temp. sensor
9)oil pressure sensor
That should be about it. If you were running a carb you should already have the cam, crank, coolant, and oil pressure sensors. I am unclear of which sensors would be required to run with a carb but I should be close. If you have questions about sensors feel free to ask in here or on other threads. Someone somewhere knows just about everything about these engines.
1)If DBW you will not need the TPS and IAC but if DBC you will
2) 2- knock sensors under the intake
3) cam positioning sensor
4) crank sensor
5)oxygen sensors
6)MAP sensor-do not use the ls3 sensor you will need the one off of the truck intake or equivalent
7) MAF sensor
8)coolant temp. sensor
9)oil pressure sensor
That should be about it. If you were running a carb you should already have the cam, crank, coolant, and oil pressure sensors. I am unclear of which sensors would be required to run with a carb but I should be close. If you have questions about sensors feel free to ask in here or on other threads. Someone somewhere knows just about everything about these engines.
02-06-2011, 09:38 PM
#247
Spent about 3 hours out in the garage today and pretty much wasted 3 hours of my life. I had bolted on my clutch master cylinder adapter plate and realized the master cylinder push rod was too long so I had two choices 1) I could make an extension for the clutch pedal like the one from Street and Pefromance or 2) I could space the master cylinder away from the adapter. Well I decided to space out the master. I fabbed out a 1/2" aluminum spacer and it turned out nice. I bolted everything together and the push rod was still too long. I decided to do like everybody else and weld on the extension. I purchased a 3/16" x 1" piece of steel and made an extension just like the one from S&P. I was pleased with it. I even got it at the 114 degrees from the pedal and tack welded it on. After fighting to get the clutch pedal back in while lying on my back, holding a flashlight, holding the clutch pedal in position and trying realign the brake all at the same time I realized I am glad I just tacked the extension on. The extension actually put the connection too far back and would not allow the proper travel for the clutch master. So I zipped off the tacks and modified the extension and repositioned it on the pedal. I am hoping it is in the right position now. I will not find out until tomorrow. I stopped to watch the Super Bowl. Sorry for no pics but my aggravation got to me and will resume snapping them tomorrow. Once I get this section of the firewall like I want it, the rest will move along pretty fast. Its the small attention to details that will make this a reliable car and thats what I am after. Actually that is why I am putting the LQ4 in my car. So I try to keep that reason of motivation in the back of my mind and stay on course.
02-06-2011, 09:55 PM
#248
I was running a carbed engine - a 383 SBC, but the LS engines (I hope) are so much better. Just got a custom cam recommendation from Patrick G, which I am hoping will be very streetable. The cam positioning sensor and crank sensor are located where? I assume the cam sensor is the one on the back of the block.
02-06-2011, 10:11 PM
#249
Rp- it all depends on what year you are buying. Mine is an 2003 LQ4 and the crank sensor is located on the passenger side towards the rear of the block on the side. My cam sensor is in the back up top next to the oil pressure sending unit. I am not sure when this was changed.
02-06-2011, 10:17 PM
#250
Wow. I would have loved to do the T56 conversion, but I at my skill level, I'm glad I reduced the scope of my project by keeping the 4l80 for now. Great progress and keep it up!
Last edited by futureuser; 02-06-2011 at 10:23 PM.
02-07-2011, 10:11 AM
#253
TECH Apprentice
@Tsnow - did you have to drill a hole in your firewall to run the clutch master rod to your pedal or did you run it through the existing hole for the original clutch rod. Also, did you purchase the adapter plate on e-bay? $35.00 shipped is a good deal. I am working on getting all the pieces together for this part of the swap and enjoyed reading on your experience with the tab on the pedal. Do you know if you need to put a "stop" somewhere to prevent too much travel on the clutch pedal/master cylinder? Thanks again for the wonderful write ups!
02-07-2011, 07:53 PM
#255
After spending a few more hours in the garage today I think I finally have my clutch master setup. I have it disassembled right now but I took pictures along the way. Hopefully if you are in the process of installing or thinking about installing a factory style clutch master this will help. Be prepared to work your *** off though.
02-07-2011, 07:55 PM
#256
This is the adapter plate I used. Notice the bend in it. It is kicked off to the side and caused some major alignment issues. At first it seemed like it was going to work but after trial and fit after trial and fit it was a no go.
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[/IMG] Last edited by tsnow678; 02-07-2011 at 09:01 PM.
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02-07-2011, 08:04 PM
#259
Thanks for the info!
So what about the gaskets? You used the truck head gaskets from the dealer? Also, I see several blue rubber square seals in the intake manifold in the ports.
Do I even need a gasket for the intake manifold?
What about the gasket for the throttle body?
Also, do you know of any good copper gaskets for the headers? I just ordered the dynatechs.
So what about the gaskets? You used the truck head gaskets from the dealer? Also, I see several blue rubber square seals in the intake manifold in the ports.
Do I even need a gasket for the intake manifold?
What about the gasket for the throttle body?
Also, do you know of any good copper gaskets for the headers? I just ordered the dynatechs.
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